SpitFire6 Posted February 12, 2019 Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 Hi, A long, long, time ago. I said I would post results of my engine oil. Here it is: Cheers, Iain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 Iian, can you help with what the results mean? I know Millers have said satisfactory (which means all is well) but what would we see if the oil was not performing well? I take it the Moly is part of the oginal oil formulation, but I bet all that data is not public anyway. Viscosity at 100degrees is down a tad from new, but will be outperforming virtually any classic oil at that mileage. So all in all a bit of a result, and it seems very high levels ZDDP may not be a necessary if the oil formulation is good. Which will likely exclude all mineral oils..... Do you know what the ZDDP levels actually are on this oil? Some Mobil 1 seems to have 1000ppm, which is not exactly low. I am genuinely interested in this research, and not something I have ever seen before on a classic car forum. Actually testing oil after it has seen some serious action. Which is way more important than what it says on the tin when put in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 This is Mobil1 0-40W? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 Hi, the oil is Mobil 1 FS 0W40. Here is the rear page: The Boron i believe is detergent, with plenty of life left. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 I am very tempted to chuck that in my engine.... currently on 5 -40 fully synthetic, but I don't see any harm in using 0-40. Especially if it maintains viscosity that well. (not a triumph engine...) But a good triumph engine seems to behave well with it. Not sure my slightly tired tr7 engine in my Tolly would like it though. Well it might, but would probably keep escaping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 Mobil 1 always used to be much cheaper in France, not sure if it still is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 12 hours ago, clive said: Iian, can you help with what the results mean? I know Millers have said satisfactory (which means all is well) but what would we see if the oil was not performing well? I take it the Moly is part of the oginal oil formulation, but I bet all that data is not public anyway. Viscosity at 100degrees is down a tad from new, but will be outperforming virtually any classic oil at that mileage. So all in all a bit of a result, and it seems very high levels ZDDP may not be a necessary if the oil formulation is good. Which will likely exclude all mineral oils..... Do you know what the ZDDP levels actually are on this oil? Some Mobil 1 seems to have 1000ppm, which is not exactly low. I am genuinely interested in this research, and not something I have ever seen before on a classic car forum. Actually testing oil after it has seen some serious action. Which is way more important than what it says on the tin when put in the car. Hi Clive, I assume if there was metal to metal contact, ie tappets & cam. The Fe would be higher. Material from the shells if there was any contact there. I know the Boron is high in this oil when new. Silicon, maybe I need to check all air going to the engine is filtered properly? Maybe the low Si is nothing. The 0W does mean it can only be a synthetic of course. The 0W rating was one of the reasons for my choice as 20W is too thick at ambient temperatures. Also as a synthetic, it started "life" as a 40 "weight" oil and additives are added to give it its 0W rating. Conventional 20W50, for example, starts as 20 and additives are added to give it a 50 at 100c. The top end Will drop as the additives wear out. Fully syn will not suffer like a conventional. the cSt results confirm this as noted. The oil is API SN & API SJ rated. I have the datasheet somewhere that shows levels of the ZN/P. One test result is far from conclusive. Another sample at 4000? miles should give a greater feel for the oil. Additionally, if future wear is satisfactory, it will give weight to the fact that oil that is modern & far from a 20W50 oil does not result in damaged tappets and camshafts, lasts longer & keeps internals clean. IMHO Would be nice if others would test their oil. I think I paid £40 for two pre-paid sample bottles. 40 tanks of fuel would put 6000 miles on my engine and cost around £1200. 5 Litres of Mobil1 FS is £40. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 Hi, Is anybody able to send a sample of oil to Milers that has done more than 2K and not drinking it? Would be good to see a classic oil test results? Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 16, 2019 Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 Shame you didn't ask about this around RBRR time. Sadly my toledo developed an oil leak on the fuel pump so had to be topped up a couple of times. And I still need to investigate the leak, gasket or pump mechanism. There are certainly a fair few who are using conventional mineral oils in their engines. So it may be worth asking on the CT forum? A lot of people won't have changed their oil since the event. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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