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Re-veneering the dash

Colin Davies

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I have filled up holes that should not be there, filled damaged areas. Rubbed it down.

I have bought new veneer. Can someone please recommend a suitable adhesive. The new veneer is slightly wrinkled, should l moisten, press and dry before attempting to adhere or just apply adhesive and go for it?

Thank you, Colin.


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Are you using a burr or non-burr vaneer (standard Triumph is non-burr)?  If the former then you do need to do some prep. work on the vaneer. If not sticking and clamping will usually sort out any minor wrinkles.

For adhesive - just bog standard PVA wood glue is fine.

I did the dash and door cappings in my 2000 last year, following the steps on https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-re-veneer-my-cars-wood-trim/ up to step 11.  I then went with the "How to Rub to a Satin Finish" instructions on https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/rubbing-great-finish-satin-gloss/.  Doing the Spitfire next, which with it's simple, flat surfaces will be a hell of a lot easier than the swooping shapes of the 2000! :)


Just read through Bordfunker's write-up and, other than using 'just wood' as opposed to 'glue backed, iron-on' vaneer the things I did differently were:

  1. Hole cutting.
    I used a fresh scalpel blade to 'punch through' in the middle of the hole, then carefully cut across the grain to each edge.  I then ran a series of cuts with the grain from that centre cut to the edge, creating a series of thin vaneer 'fingers'.  These would then nicely fold, following the hole contour under gentle thumb pressure.  Then with a small file used only stroking down through the hole from the vaneer side they would break off cleanly at the hole edge.
    This worked well for both the large gauge holes and the smaller switch/glovebox lock/etc holes.  The main thing was just focusing on taking theings slow and not trying to rush - probably the hardest part :)
  2. Stick dam you!
    I also had a few points where the vaneer didn't stick, usually down to not being able to clamp the vaneer to the dash evenly while the glue cured due to the curves of the 2000 panels.  Here I found an old scalpel blade came in handy, as you could get a little glue on it and then slide it in between the vaneer and dash to get new glue right inside, before reclamping the local areas.

I'd definetly recommend Rustins Plastic Coating (as Frost instructions and available on eBay).  I found it actually works best when you really lather it on - it's self levelling to a degree and you're going to have to sand back loads anyway.  If you do all the vaneering first, then the coating as a second, single step by the time you've done one coat over each piece it will be dry-enough to go back over with a second, so you can get a few layers on in each session.

Rustons DOES stink to high heaven, so either an outside or all windows open (during, and for some time after you stop) job.  It also kills a brush after a couple of applications, as it starts to cure where it's been drawn up the brissles (so a couple of cheap-but-not-too-cheap brushes are the order of the day).  On the other hand it will also last several days mixed up in a jam jar if covered with clingfilm when not in use.

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