Big saloon (Stag/TR6) - removing the gearbox nose extension oil seal

[Mjit]

AAAAaaahhhh!!!!!

OK, anyone got any tips on removing the oil seal from the big saloon (Stag/TR6) gearbox nose extension?

I'm swapping gearboxes from my parts car to my driver with a rebuild on the way through and just stuck with the nose extension oil seal.  The one in the spare gearbox shows no signs of moving anywhere.  There's a bit of rust inside the clutch release bearing tube so maybe that's got to the seal and rusted in place, so I tried the one in the being-replaced gearbox... No rust inside the tube on that one but, like the first all I can do is mangle the flat-side lip.  The circular section sat in the bore shows no signs of movement what so ever.

Is there a trick to removing these?

 

 

Oh and yes, of course the clutch release fork pin snapped on this one too.

[Pete Lewis]

i recollect removing mine to utter destruction ,once the seal part gave up i chopped the metal ring with a chisel to split and remove,

refitting the new  was easy  with big socket and whacker

pete

[Mjit]

Well that was, umm, 'fun'.

Ended up having to get the Dremel out and, really carefully, grind through the side of the seal's metal cup till it was paper thin and I could start working a penknife blade behind it.  Eventually it started turning inside the nose piece and from there popped out just dandy with the seal puller.

Now just waiting for some locking wire to come through the post to complete the gearbox...but have an exhaust manifold swap to look forward to in the mean time.  Dropping the exhaust to remove the gearbox on the parts car all three manifold/down pipe nuts came off just fine.  Doing the same on the good one...two nuts and one snapped stud 😞

[Pete Lewis]

getting all the straps and rubbers and bolts  on the exhaust mount at the rear x member is a faf . glasses and finger all get in the way

pete

[Mjit]

Given how much of a ball-ache, largely working blind with 18ft of socket extension bar getting some of the gearbox bellhousing bolt OUT was I'm really not looking forward to getting them back in!  I'm really dreading trying to get those very top nuts to take the threads...

[Pete Lewis]

yes its a work of art , drop the whole engine down and back and they are just visible      its a wonderous design , dont think they ever intended taking the g box off on its own 

they  only contemplate lift the car on sky hooks and drop the lot out form underneath 

yeah  really  ,  we have to manage these struggles with strong   TEA  maybe a little  ADDED SPIRIT

do double check the alignment or it will become a heavy struggle , I use an odd bit of timber as a eye up /gauge between rear plate and C hsg  so you know youre  ||  NOT \|

Pete 

 

[Mjit]

Yea, made up a length of wood with a cut-out for the jack pad on one side and a hole for the drain plug/two piles of packers screwed on at different positions to set things at the correct angle, then a couple of rachet straps to hold it in position.

Only problem is it's too tall to roll in/out under the car with the box on.  Option one is 'reversal of removal', or strapping it to the wood, sliding it under the car, then trying to roll it up and on to the jack. Option two is to try juggling lifting the engine on its supporting bottle jack/the car on my proper jack to get the axle stands up a peg.

Think it will have to be option two, maybe with a wood block made up to stop the engine pressing on the bulkhead brake pipes added to the mix.  Option one has me dropping a gearbox on my arm under the car written all over it

[Pete Lewis]

you remember the good old days........... of box on chest and raise with the knees   

i had one of thos transmission beds and same , not enough height of car to get under so it hangs on the wall waiting disposal

even with the ally case its quite a lump .  with two of us under going heave ho      not much happens   Ha !

so get help dont get flattened , not a nice way to go  !!!!

i remember a local guy  car up on bricks , it fell and pierced the fuel tank on something and he was trapped, the worst was to come  a paraffin heater set the lot on fire 

stay safe 

Pete

[NonMember]

When I changed the engine on my 2500S I had the car up on ramps, replaced two of the cross-member fixing bolts with threaded rod and used them to lower the engine and gearbox onto a trolley. Then I rolled them onto their side to wheel the trolley out from under. Refitting was a reversal - roll it under on its side, lever it upright, install the threaded rod then slowly wind it up into position. Took ages but involved minimal crawling under.

[Mjit]

Getting a second pair of hands not an option at the moment with social distancing!

Anyway, at least the locking wire arrived today so I can tick the last item of the gearbox overhaul list and get some refitting done on the long weekend.

No sign of the Witor order yet though (mainly exhaust gaskets, etc) which will stop completion, but manged to get the manifolds off during my lunch break so have a whole new set of jobs to do.  The inlet manifold water outlet pipe has rusted through on the driver but doesn't leak...because the inlet pipe is completely bunged up with crap!  Oh and the carb heat shields...are made of thin hardboard...

One step forward, at least two steps back.

[thescrapman]

You can go in via the big rubber bung in front of gearstick hole, that helps.

but biggest thing to do is to get lots of height on the car, 2 ft is ideal under the sills.

or get a lift!

[Mjit]

So looks like 'hardboard' heat shields are standard, suggesting it's probably asbestos...

Oh, and a note the the PO, those plain bolts with no locking wire... Yea, NOT suitable for use in the steering rubber coupling. One has rattled almost completely out! 😳

[Mjit]

So finally got all the parts delivered and everything back together so just one thing left to do - see if it works...

Fuel system primped using the hand primer on the fuel pump and in to the drivers seat I get with, considering the cars just been sat since October and I lent my battery charger to a friend a few weeks back, very low expectations.  Turn the key and after about 3s she starts up!  It moves forward in 1st and backwards in reverse but waiting for food supplies to drop before I have an excuse to drive further.

Clutch is still annoying me though.  As bought the bite point was right on the floor.  Well no gearbox issues now and a new slave cylinder but the natural position is still with the slave cylinder piston at the very end of its travel, so needing 3x plain nuts between the bell housing and the slave cylinder so it actually has somewhere to move when you press the pedal.  Can't see any difference in the engine mounting and this is now the same gearbox/operating rod that worked fine on the old car.

Meh!  It works

[Pete Lewis]

have you got the slave on the shortest side (reward) of the  engine plate ????  

whats the angle of the lever ??  you should have  |/  not ||   or  | \        so the slave pushes from 11 though to 1  (oclock)  to get he best mechanical advantage   not 12 to 2

pete