Jump to content

Wierd wiper


ahebron

Recommended Posts

When I finally powered up my Vitesse it blew a fuse but as I have split it into 8 circuits I wasn't too worried as the car running was the priority.
Yesterday was the day I got round to finding the fault which turned out to be the wiper motor.
I removed the motor and opened it up but not much looked to be wrong. Into the spares and pull out a rough looking unit.
Opening it found almost new bushes but the spring holders had broken, the original unit had good spring holders.
Fitting the spring holders and brush arm locator to the spare unit and it runs.
As the original motor had been painted and gearbox regreased I thought I would swap the armature and field coils into this housing as it is only a couple of screws.
Did that and motor would not work and current was upto 6 amps. Take it all apart and assemble in old unit and it works again.
Turns out the housing has been damaged at some time, on closer examination it has a rubbing lip on the inside of the curved part of the housing. 
Laziest way to do the job was fit the old motor housing with its good bits onto the original gearbox and paint it.

As an aside I tested the temperature gauge using my flying lead 2 watt bulb, put the bulb in line with earth and the temp sender wire and watch it slowly climb up to 2/3 gauge. Checked the voltage stabiliser is working by watching the bulb flash as the bimetal is operating, you can do the same with a volt meter and watch it swing from 0 volts to 12 volts.

Adrian
 

 

Edited by ahebron
spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a voltmeter responsive enough to see it, it should swing between 0 and 12v the average being 10.5v. Surprised you can actually see it swinging my £5 meter just used to sit at 10.5v Now I have an electronic one which doesn’t pulse.

Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

should swing to 10.5 volts   not 12v  

No, Pete, that's wrong.

The intent of the voltage stabiliser is to supply 10.5V on average to the gauges. It achieves this by cycling on and off, between battery (12V+) and open (0V). If the battery is at 12V it spends nearly 90% of the time at 12V, a little over 10% at 0V, giving 10.5 average. If the battery is at 14V (engine running) it spends less time on and more off, but the swing is from 0V to 14V so the average is still 10.5V

 

All this is for the original bimetallic type, of course. Modern electronic ones work differently and generally don't pulse.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...