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Lights in out in out


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Fellow enthusiasts -

So I'm not very bright..... Well, I'm actually quite bright but the Herald 1500 isn't when things are in the 'right ' position. 

I will illuminate my conundrum... with the T switch right OUT my sides and heads are OFF but that isn't right is it? I push it in once for sides and fully in for heads and it's been working in the aforementioned manner since I rebuilt the thing 10 years ago ...but it is now annoying me and anyway a shiny new dashboard is here to be fitted so here's my chance. Nil excuses!

Can anyone please advise? I have a fuzzy bit in my brain where electric car switches are concerned.

Thanks

David F

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I'm assuming Herald 13/60 since you mention a t-switch? 

Just off the top of my head and based on other models - switches are usually pull for on, push for off... in the 1200 for example or my GT6 one pull / position is for lights, which are then controlled by the stalk on the steering column; it controls side lights and main or dip beams, but on or off is from the switch. The second pull / position is for dashboard illumination. 

I have an entire shelf full of manuals and not one of them describes the operation of the 13/60 lights; plenty of 1200 versions but not much help! I'll continue to check through them and report back.

 

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you have the push pull connections reversed 

as colin says first pull powers the column stalk  2nd pull add dash lamps 

in is off , not out  

terminal  dont think these are on the switch  but  

30    2  x brown blue   feed

31    brown/red   to stalk

32    2 x  red/white    dash

Pete

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Gents - thanks and yes it is my beautiful 1500 Herald 13/60 convertible. 

I've looked in the manuals too but just can't figure which terminal is which. Trial and error might be the only way but I HATE burning stuff out...

DF

 

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the switch depicted in the WSM wire diagram looks more like the two position dual toggle switch 

as i have a box of them 3 term on the front switch two on the rearward  ,  but im not into  13/60 detail

 https://www.google.com/search?q=lucas+toggle+switch+wiring+diagram&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=qALFI2S0h4ePEM%2CzOtPYmqIX4C3gM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQl37bGqrQA07mpz6rUgaaRhmuX1g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiRrMql4sXqAhXknVwKHVMiC2gQ9QEwCnoECAoQKw&biw=1366&bih=625#imgrc=PsNyXxXwqA7wYM

Pete

 

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Pete - Ah not those switches - from my mini rally days we had lots of those on the cars for extra spots and hazards and fuel off and all that. Those days my brain was in tune and switch perfect - and I could swap a rear subframe in 90 minutes. But my suppleness is waning and I dream about a pit or a lift nowadays! 

This is indeed the pull out t switch common to 13/60s - I will work it out tomorrow when madam allows me time ( I have a print out of the messages above to assist). In addition to a shiny new dashboard from Chapman & Cliff I bought a new transmission tunnel in shiny plastic plus some shiny sticky backed insulation and a new fitting kit -  I spotted that my 50+ yrs old paper one had given up along the top front when topping up gearbox oil and checking the overdrive -  THAT's why it was a bit hot noisy and smelly.... 

(The things you do with an unexpected but very small premium bonds win....)

Oh and I still need to find a reasonable sprayer for my rolling, totally stripped and welded and in primer 4 door 1954 Minor. The London prices are daft...and I dont expect another bonds win for years....

DF

 

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we got a very good finish with JapLac and brush and roller on sons first rusty Mini ,lasted 5 years,  done in a  morning 

cost about £15 in paint and small sponge rollers  ha !

Ive just had a  good win on the postcode lottery   so theres some common ground here   Ha !

other schematic shows NU to 4    NR  to 7      RW  to  8   so much confusion   push pull  flip flop    Ha!!

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