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CV Anti burst locks


Jeffds1360

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Can anyone explain how these are meant to work?

Mine didn't. !

Got the fright of my life the other day when my door swung open going found a left hand junction. 

I see the wedge,  I see the catch. BUT it just slides in and out again. Is there something missing?

Thanks in advance

Yes, I know, I should have checked but I had not realised it was only "half shut" and I thought these anti bursts were meant to hold the door  ???

Jeff.

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The "anti-burst" catches are misnamed. They are there to give rigidity to the shell and stop the door gaps opening/closing when driving, and the shell folding open in an accident. Nothing to do with keeping the door shut (though sort of helps, because  body flex could be bad enough to open the doorgap enough to make the latch/catch separate if the antiburst is missing)

 

Your door coming open is down to the normal catch. Often very worn on the top edge. And check teh wedge at the bottom of that moves freely and springs back. 

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AAAAaaaaaah!! Understood. Yes. They are just to stop up and down, I can see that now, great information.

As you say, a misnomer... no 'extra' catch facility, just anti-movement. Gotcha. 

Must lubricate and adjust the latch. Thank you very much.

We should campaign for a revised description.

Mind, I once nearly bought what I thought was a CV but noticed there was no 'anti bursts and therefore questioned the seller who reluctantly admitted it was not a factory CV so I cancelled the deal :) even though he dropped the price by a grand.

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As Clive says they just stop the body flexing up and down in the middle as the car goes over bumps. Lots of cars used them, in different designs - see photo. The doors open and close as normal, but are stopped from pulling forwards against the catch. Herald ones are almost the same as TR7, which are sometimes easier to find if anyone needs any. 

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there must be a small end float/gap between the push button tappet screw and the cam lever as this can hold the latch ready to open 

likewise any tension in the release operation rod will do the same , (inner handle is on slotted holes to adjust the play /tension 

the small slide wedge under the B post striker must be working its this that stops  the latch disengaging  if  the door lifts the cam roller out of the striker 

the small spring is a life saver ,  they are   not available  its a DIY to repair with any transplant spring 

Pete

 

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Now that is EXTREMELY interesting !!!

I had not noticed this 'spring'. Looking closely I can see that little triangular piece. It, however has VERY little movement but does press up a mm or so, and returns now that I have pressed it up

Is this enough movement and can someone describe the detail of its operation please?

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That is what I referred to earlier. Probably full of gunk. 

Spray WD40 in, and jiggle it in/out. Shake it all about. Keep going and eventually it will be able to move freely until teh wedge can almost come right out. Then oil or grease or suchlike, and the doors will close better and rattle about less. That is the idea.

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Just now, Jeffds1360 said:

I get you now Clive, I was not aware the wedge existed and was wondering what you meant in that post. :) . Got it now. Another little job after my mates funeral tomorrow.....  seeing we cannot have a wake. :(

My sympathies for tomorrow. No wake for either of my parents last year either. Or proper reception for my Daughters wedding (supposed to have the reception in May, but that looks unlikely at the moment unless things rapidly change for the better)

On the positive side, we are lucky to have tech so we can all "chat" and keep some sanity. I feel for the poor buggers who have nobody to speak/type/zoom or whatever with.

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1 hour ago, Jeffds1360 said:

Now that is EXTREMELY interesting !!!

I had not noticed this 'spring'. Looking closely I can see that little triangular piece. It, however has VERY little movement but does press up a mm or so, and returns now that I have pressed it up

Is this enough movement and can someone describe the detail of its operation please?

You can pull it gently outwards and it will rotate sideways once clear of the sides so that you can release it and it will stay wedged outside the groove, enabling you to clean it and in behind it. I cleaned mine recently with WD40 and it really did free up. I didn't fully remove it just in case.

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Well that was fun :)

I took the drivers striker off and freed the wedge and lubricated it.

Previously that door had only had a 'fully shut' mode (no catch on partially open) but I have adjusted the striker (top out bottom in and height the best I can do) but I still see no contact with the sprung wedge.

Still. all's good as it now opens with one pull on the inner handle and no need to use my shoulder plus it catches when just open < 1"

Passenger side has worked fine but I thought I may as well free the wedge..... guess what!!! blooming thing came fully out! So... I had to take that striker off too. I carefully marked where it was and luckily the spring had just unhooked. I got it straight back back in and all is well.

I do not think that wedge/spring is strong enough to stop the door 'rattling' or moving about but would be interested for an explanation of what it actually does??

Eeeeh well... pipe fittings arriving so oil and water sensors to fiddle with now. Tooooo blumming cold in my garage still!

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Just to confirm that you mean the wedge on the door that goes into the striker and nothing to do with the 'anti burst' wedge which is just a solid piece fitting into another solid piece ( with a fair bit of free play/adjustment available)

Sorry to be a pain :)

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