Push rod sealing tube oil leak Vitesse 2L MK1

[TRevver]

Has anyone come up with a solution to stop oil seeping from the cylinder head down the outside of the push rod sealing tubes from above?

I was thinking if there is a suitable sealant (temperature and oil resistant etc) that could be placed around the top of the push rod sealing tubes from inside the cylinder head so that they actually sealed? 

[DanMi]

I made mine much better (spit mk2) by using a green wicking loctite, thoroughly cleaned with brake fluid the let the loctite soak in both top and bottom. Still a tiny weep but much better. I will try and find the number

[DanMi]

loctite 290  I found most of my leaks where actually from the bottom and I meant brake cleaner not fluid

 

[Pete Lewis]

you can try to swell the tube with a nice taper/flared socket find one that just slides in the tube and give it a good whack

so the socket reforms the tube ends to a tight fit 

Pete

 

[Colin Lindsay]

That works for me too; I think it's about a half inch socket but needs to be flared.

[DanMi]

I also did as Pete suggested only used 2 sockets and a long bolt to tightened up to flare both ends

[TRevver]

Thanks, for the suggestions. I might give a combination of methods a go. If applying loctite 290 or similar, did you apply it from "outside" i.e. where the push rod sealing tubes are exposed on the outside of the casing?

[Colin Lindsay]

8 minutes ago, TRevver said:

If applying loctite 290 or similar, did you apply it from "outside" i.e. where the push rod sealing tubes are exposed on the outside of the casing?

You'll have to make sure that it's very clean and oil-free for the Loctite to seal properly. I had the head off when doing mine but used nothing other than the socket, but if applying sealer I'd do the top from the inside ie with the rocker cover off, as this is probably where most of the oil comes from.

[DanMi]

 I first used 2 sockets with a bolt through to tighten up then put the locktite in 4 places on each tube so both sides of top and bottom casings and yes It had just been a rebuilt engine and i thoroughly cleaned the area with brake cleaner and I took the head off to do it. I decided to do it belt and braces as I didn't want to have to take the head off a second time

[DanMi]

I tried to make this out of 2 sockets with shoulders one in the top of the tube one in the bottom and then tighten together with a long nut and bolt. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=Ferguson+TE20+pushrod+tube&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=SkxSneoDAinx-M%2CUzykDvzIddB_KM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTGqu3hEvVAdUgK_5nyoG8euj_72A&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjd7b2W_YLvAhVBsXEKHYqHDhEQ9QF6BAgIEAE#imgrc=SkxSneoDAinx-M

 

it's for a Massey ferguson tractor but same idea 

[TRevver]

So there is a tool! Albeit for tractors, the head is off anyway so may as well give it a go and try and fashion something up. I'll try some kind of sealant too, only thing I was  unsure about was the loctite 290 being stable with the hot(ish) oil - but I guess it works - so thanks.

[DanMi]

mine is still relatively leak free after 3 years the head only gets to 100c. I had the same concerns so put a few blobs in the oven perfectly hard at 120c (don't tell the other half)

[TRevver]

Thanks for the passing on the results, I made an exhaust clamp casserole not long ago. Could we have a challenger to The Great British Bake Off?

[Colin Lindsay]

I made a very nice souffle out of two plastic parts I was trying to heat-weld together. Does that count?

[Pete Lewis]

EP90  gravy   ???

 

+1 for two sockets and some studding from BQ  

Pete

[TRevver]

I was going to skip the baking today and make a ploughman’s instead, but we’ve run out of pickled trunnions.

[Pete Lewis]

No you troil youre onions 

Pete

[TRevver]

The home made tool seemed to work well with 2 x 3/8 flared sockets (7/16 seems to also fit well). The other ingredients I used were a 110mm M8 high tensile nut and bolt with 2 M8 penny washers. The push rod sleeves certainly now look like a better fit. I put a bead of the loctite 290 on both ends as well just to be sure.Thanks for the suggestions.

[Pete Lewis]

whats happening to the rest of the engine ??

Pete

[JohnD]

TRevver,

Have you looked at the crankcase pressure?   Sure, oil will seep out if there is a gap, but if there is excess pressure then it will be worse.

Take off the oil filler cap while the engine runs - is there a gentle breeze of minor blowby from the pistons, or a mighty wind?   

And check the vent from the rocker cover.   Some (late?) have a tin box over the inside that contains wire wool, intended to catch oil droplets and let them drip back inside, rather than gum up the air filter.     Previous neglect (before your time, of course!) and just age can gum up that wool and partially block the vent.      It can be hooked out with a wire, or needlenosed pliers, and the box left in, or cut off the box, it's not a big deal, and a free vent is most important.

John

[TRevver]

The vent on the Rocker cover is completely clear, no wire wool. I think it was just due to seepage around the top of the pushrod sleeves over time.

 

Pete, the block is stripped back of ancillaries and it's booked in for cylinder hone/bore, piston rings, main bearings, etc. May as well get it all done whilst it's in bits, she deserves it! Hopefully over the next few weeks. I'll keep you posted...

[Pete Lewis]

Hope after  all that the bl**dy thing starts    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

John   TRevs's is a Mk1 vitesse real smokey breathing , when it runs it runs like clockwork but it then wont start or restart compressions not good but workable 

been out to try a couple of times and come home defeated after some bacon butties 

Pete