Colin Lindsay Posted October 9, 2022 Report Share Posted October 9, 2022 1 hour ago, Josef said: Yeah for sure, but best to take a break rather than make even more of a mess! It happens, but you're like me - no ifs or buts or coverups, the brake line needs replacing!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2022 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: It happens, but you're like me - no ifs or buts or coverups, the brake line needs replacing!! The brake pipe flaring tool is already on order. I’m not driving something with a damaged brake pipe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2022 Ground out and re did the porous welds from the other day, and put two more tiny patches into the bottom of the main rail. Pretty awkward welding position… The damage was minor fortunately and the surrounding metal took some good hot welds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 my last MOT had a advisory small 1p sized hole in the suspn rear crossmember on the 2000 a patch over was not now acceptable you have to remove and plate the whole section , fitted a good as new SH beam it was only the closing panel that had aged not the main chanel so be aware the MOT might not accept patches in main structures these days it in the eyes of the tester and which side of the bed he gets out on the day but seems the guidlines have changed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Hmm, well they’re cut out the damage and butt weld repairs. I wasn’t going to grind them flush for extra strength. Might go a little further though so they’ll be all but invisible under stone chip and paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Patches are ok for MOT on chassis, but not on suspension / steering components that are removable (wishbones, trailing arms, removable crossmembers etc) I was a MOT tester for 7 years & worked at a testing station up to last year, believe me, most testers would be happy to see welding to your standard. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 that clears that up , thanks Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 1 hour ago, steveo said: Patches are ok for MOT on chassis, but not on suspension / steering components that are removable (wishbones, trailing arms, removable crossmembers etc) I was a MOT tester for 7 years & worked at a testing station up to last year, believe me, most testers would be happy to see welding to your standard. That is quite reassuring thank you Steve! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Now we have a real expert for our MOT questions! Brill! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 4 hours ago, Mathew said: Even had one fail on the horn! To prove the point I sounded it several time on my way out! My GT6 horn only worked if you turned the steering wheel slightly. When I last MOTd it, I never heard the horn sound (due to Covid restrictions they took the car inside and I had to stand outside) but when they left it back to me I too made a point of beeping at them as I drove away. The horns on the Freelander failed completely, I couldn't even find them. (Up behind the front grille, you have to take the entire bumper off) The local garage replaced them with an old spare he had lying about and now it quacks pitifully. It's embarrassing but I can't replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 you can take tablets for a pitiful horn Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 The first thing to getting any car MOT'd is make sure it's clean & turn up on time (most do 1 every hour, 10 minutes late can mess the day up) if a car turns up filthy & full of crap most testers take a dim view of it, a well-presented car goes a long way to getting a pass, more likely to advise items if they think you love your motor & look after it. Make sure oil / water / screen wash is topped up, wipers are not falling to bits, tyres pumped up & it's got plenty of fuel in it. nothing worse than testing a car with the low fuel light on. Do any advisories from last year well in advance, again the tester will be more likely to issue a pass if think any items will be sorted quickly. Don't say "be nice to it" or things like "I hope it passes, moneys tight this month" makes it sound like your car is the last thing to get money spent on it! Give the tester space, we got customers following us around and even down the pit & under ramps, wait in the waiting area or go for a walk, don't fuss over leaving your car, they probably test things worth 10 time more than yours! Hope this helps, Cheers, Steveo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 Ha !! remember my dad walking up and down the waiting room probably more than he did in the materinty home waiting for me its simple just accept the things you didnt know about and fix anything thats noted makes driving it a happy day its good to have a second opinion on your car how many bother to check all their lights are working not many when you see so many with various lights out and shreaded wipers , then theres the idiots who cant turn the rear wash wipe off thats nearly as bad as the No Indicators syndrome so get it tested and be happy Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2022 Well, I ended up having to repair more on the RH chassis rail, and then went looking and found some small holes in the bottom of the LH rail. Fixed, stonechipped, painted and filled with waxoyl now. Got the new brake pipe fitted and bled the brakes. Next job will be to nip up to the NERC at some point to use the lift and grind the bottom of the wheel well repairs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted December 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2022 Well, I had forgotten it was October when I’d got the chassis main rail repairs finished… I had a real faff on with the brakes after replacing the pipe to the o/s/r, the flare tool I bought broke so I had to get a replacement from the supplie. Then the brakes still didn’t feel right and I eventually found my supposedly high quality (Willwood) master cylinder was failing. Chucked in a seal kit and there was still signs of a tiny leak from somewhere, so I replaced it. Anyway by this stage I’d decided to just bite the bullet and grind the wheel well with the car on stands rather than drive round with bare steel showing on wet roads. Then having spent time staring at the chassis I figured I’d better throw a few patches in to the n/s rear outrigger as some bits looked a little ropey. It’ll give it a few more years at least. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted December 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2022 Patches in, everything ground down, and staring on paint / rust converter where appropriate. I’m trying Jenolite spray on rust converter as there’s a few bits of pitting I’ve not managed to get the rust right out of. I’m thinking of adding a drain hole at the bottom of the outrigger, the o/s one I capped as I had to repair the end of that last year when dealing with the boot corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted December 11, 2022 Report Share Posted December 11, 2022 Good job esp like the tyre well repair looks original well done see there’s two front foot well replacements at the side waiting? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted December 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2022 Thanks Peter, the wheel well is a bit wobbly as I ended up making it in loads of pieces, but overall I am pleased! Yes, the front footwells. Both of mine have been replaced with overlapped panels, and there’s rust in the a posts… So I’m intending to take the bulkhead off soonish and do a proper job. I am hoping I might get away with not using the fresh passenger side panel, but we shall have to see what everything looks like once cleaned of paint, waxoyl etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted December 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2022 Bit of painting progress. It definitely photographs OK, though wobbliness is still apparent close up. The spare tyre is not going to be complaining much about the view though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 With the underside finished for the moment, and the weather warm enough for me to do a bit of work outside, I’ve been attacking the replacement passenger door again. Now it is wire brushed as far as I could manage, Jenolite’d where access was poor, and I’ve just put the first coat of paint on the inside. Still some trimming to do, and drain holes to drill, but I’ll be able the main body of the shell done soon enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 Well. The door rebuild has turned out to be a bit of a bust. The skin I have is a really poor pressing somehow. It’s not straight along the top edge and the body line pressings don’t extend to the rear edge properly. It came from the club shop. Julian has been very good about it, however Fitchetts have been completely unwilling to admit there might be anything possibly wrong with one of their panels. So, this will be on ice for a bit… However, the Herald is in need of attention. I’m still prevaricating about taking the bulkhead off. So I started properly investigating the front of the chassis. Turns out the passenger side is rather a mess, but at least the anti roll bar mount is solid. The driver’s side, miraculously just has surface rust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 Chipping away at the chassis rot. It’s going reasonably well, and isn’t all that bad really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2023 Back to a whole hole free chassis. This part of it at least! I deleted the seam on the lowest section and welded a fake section on the outside so it looks right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 Got the repairs to the front of the chassis stonechipped and top coated, and the anti roll bar ready for painting. I think the next job has to be getting the bulkhead off so I can repair the floors and a posts properly, but I really wanted to finish the replacement door beforehand. So I’m still going to prevaricate a bit I think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted February 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2023 Anti roll bar reinstalled: Cars swapped around: And time to bite the bullet as I discovered a new convenient screwdriver holster and figured I couldn’t put the bulkhead off any longer… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now