13/60 Rolling Resto

[Josef]

Anyone spot the deliberate mistake? I measured from the outer edge instead of the inner edge for the hole position…

[Josef]

With a body mount with the correct hole now attached, the test fit looks fine. With the possible exception of the alignment of the drivers side tread plate. But that is something I am happy to address later, the main job being getting the passenger floor in. Both floors and all mount holes line up nicely!

[Josef]

I think the reason this side appears less rotten might be this handy drain hole that’s developed! On its way to being replaced, but perhaps deliberate drain holes in the base of the a posts will be a sensible plan.

[daverclasper]

1 hour ago, Josef said:

but perhaps deliberate drain holes in the base of the a posts will be a sensible plan.

Always on the lookout for extra drain holes positions on Vitesse (I can't work out where that one is?). Any good tips please?

[Peter Truman]

My Mk2 Vitesse rusted out locally at the bottom of the A post drivers side, I thought about after removing all the rusted metal of just leaving it but couldn't do it so had a new metal floor welded in then tank cut a drain hole in it. I cut a drain hole in the passenger side too even tho it had NO rust. A post was well Rust proofed with plenty of fish oil, I think the problem was the RH windscreen surround let water in somewhere i needed a small patch where where the side window rubber strip seal is located.

[Josef]

12 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Always on the lookout for extra drain holes positions on Vitesse (I can't work out where that one is?). Any good tips please?

The photos are of the underside of the passenger a post. I’m thinking of putting a hole in forward of the rearmost bulkhead body mount, but that’d be pretty hard to do with the bulkhead on the chassis as it’ll be directly above the chassis rail!

[Josef]

The passenger a post is getting there. The whole area is much better on this side. Tried to save the original body mount, but it was deeply pitted and as I already had a template far easier to just knock up a new one. I managed to drill he hole in the right place this time too! Started trying to make a section for where the main body tread plate overlaps, lots of overlapping bends but it actually is looking OK.

[Josef]

Inching closer to having the floors done. I keep encountering extra complications… This is the way of course!

[Peter Truman]

Nice work and photos in logical order, well done, have a glass of Newcastle Brown! If it's still made? I've carried bottles of that stuff all around the world in the 60's and early 70's to keep workmates happy!

[Josef]

Yeah it’s still available. Not been brewed in Newcastle itself for quite some time though!

[Josef]

Got yesterday’s patches in fully, then most of today has been taken up by the OS windscreen pilar. There’s a bit of weld touch up to do, otherwise ready for a gutter. I’m slowly getting towards the end of the repairs now. 

[Peter Truman]

interesting the original manufactured gap in the actual window glass mounting flange where the side pillar meets the bottom or dash frame, the watertight seal relies on the windscreen rubber, making a direct path to the A pillar if there's a leak or your right foot?

[Josef]

1 hour ago, Peter Truman said:

interesting the original manufactured gap in the actual window glass mounting flange where the side pillar meets the bottom or dash frame, the watertight seal relies on the windscreen rubber, making a direct path to the A pillar if there's a leak or your right foot?

That gap is due to a tiny bit of rot. There’s an approx 10mm section that was single thickness, so there was only an outside flange, and that outer flange needs repair.

[Josef]

Experimenting again with videos - repairing the last bit of floor and fitting a body mount 

 

[DJB350Z]

Nice video. I haven't been through your whole thread yet so may have missed it but what welder do you have?

[Josef]

4 hours ago, DJB350Z said:

Nice video. I haven't been through your whole thread yet so may have missed it but what welder do you have?

Oh thanks! The welder I have is a Clarke 135TE and I use HobbyWeld 5 gas with it. I’ve used it pretty heavily with the Spitfire and now the Herald, and it’s stood up remarkably well. Nowadays I feel I’d like finer power control but I can manage with the four settings it has. As I’ve never actually used another welder I can’t offer a comparative opinion though.

[DJB350Z]

Thanks. I've never welded but would like to learn eventually so interested what equipment people go for.

I watched Ed China recently and he used a GYS 211-4 but of course that's at a fairly high price point for a DIYer. Does look like it would help a novice like me out though with the settings it has.

I won't derail your thread anymore! 

[Josef]

8 hours ago, DJB350Z said:

I won't derail your thread anymore! 

One of the things I rather like about this forum is that nobody gets particularly upset about thread topics meandering a little. 
I can’t say I’ve too much expertise, but I feel the claims of that welder you mention might be accurate for nice fresh steel and not necessarily hold up once you start on old car panels. For ‘having a go’ £300 for the Clarke and then eventually about £100 for a gas bottle (most of that was deposit) definitely hasn’t been a bad choice.

[Josef]

Videoing stuff again - repairing the windscreen frame and making a gutter from scratch

 

 

[Josef]

Windscreen frame corner repairs - getting close to having a rust free bulkhead! 

 

[Josef]

Just happened across the Rimmer’s price for a Herald body mount kit. I ordered from Canley’s for £32.50. Rimmer bros have it for £120 including VAT…

[Colin Lindsay]

Wonder what the rubber pads are made of? Some compress alarmngly when fitted, causing al sorts of creaks and groans; I bought the canvas-reinforced versions from Chic Doig which were good, but then one day in a local Motorfactors spotted huge panels of reinforced rubber which I think were for truck mudflaps. Using a hole saw I was able to make quite a few for a number of cars.

[PeteH]

17 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Wonder what the rubber pads are made of? Some compress alarmngly when fitted, causing al sorts of creaks and groans; I bought the canvas-reinforced versions from Chic Doig which were good, but then one day in a local Motorfactors spotted huge panels of reinforced rubber which I think were for truck mudflaps. Using a hole saw I was able to make quite a few for a number of cars.

Co-incidently, Quite a few years ago I took the Huge Mudflaps off my American R-V, (Replaced with a full Rear skirt, to keep the trailer Clean(er)). Large sections of said flaps are now between the Tub`s and chassis on 13/60. Support`s the reasoning "never throw `owt away"!.👍

Pete

[Josef]

18 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Wonder what the rubber pads are made of? Some compress alarmngly when fitted, causing al sorts of creaks and groans; I bought the canvas-reinforced versions from Chic Doig which were good, but then one day in a local Motorfactors spotted huge panels of reinforced rubber which I think were for truck mudflaps. Using a hole saw I was able to make quite a few for a number of cars.

Paddocks are advertising theirs as polyurethane. My old ones are wafer thin, they’ve been bolted down for a long time given how little there was left of the bolts that pass through the chassis. My Canley’s order shipped yesterday so I’ll report back with what I get. 

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, Josef said:

My Canley’s order shipped yesterday so I’ll report back with what I get. 

Please - just out of interest. The 13/60 I've just completed used rectangular strips of heavy reinforced rubber, they've been fitted since 1990, but some of the other cars have mounts that are completely flat and as you say, wafer thin.