Triumph 2000 mk2 Camshaft change

[Woody2000]

Hi I am changing my camshaft in my car as it has a fast road cam in an auto box car not fun to drive .Have kindly been sorted out with one from this forum 

Question is what do I need to replace it gaskets etc thank you 🙏 

[Clive]

Head off, so you can get the cam followers out. Care is needed with teh followers, ideally new ones, but difficult to find quality (newman cams sell good ones, and "OKish" types) I remember it is possible to reface followers if they are undamaged, flat surface, WD40 and some fine abrasive paper from memory.

Then timing cover off. 

So a head gasket set, timing cover gasket too. Is it worth doing the timing cover seal too? Maybe....

One last thing to check. Has the compression ratio been increased to match the fast road cam? Somewhere on the web are the heights of various heads, but that still doesn't tell you if the combustion chanbers have been modified. 

 

[Pete Lewis]

chris witor has a techy page on heads

i have dreamt of using rawl bolts to grip and rise the followers to save removing the head   but you need 12 of them and if one lets go the follower is in the sump

so its never been tried its just a wild idea   and as followers need to match  up they do need examining     

when broke  i  won a new camshaft but had refaced the followers on a  early Chrysler Alpine with wet dry and a pillar drill   i sold the car and it remained quiet for another 190k

that was a surprise rust killed the car not the engine clatter which they were good at 

Pete

[Woody2000]

Had a read in the manuals and I think taking the head off and rockers etc I can do BUT  it goes on about distributor coming out timing marks etc is this quite straightforward and timing chain and marks ??? 

I can probably strip most of it and if I get stuck can probably ask a mate !! 

[Woody2000]

Had a read in the manuals and I think taking the head off and rockers etc I can do BUT  it goes on about distributor coming out timing marks etc is this quite straightforward and timing chain and marks ??? 

I can probably strip most of it and if I get stuck can probably ask a mate !! 

Agreed Matthew but sometimes the manual makes it worst than it is to do if you know what I mean !!

[Pete Lewis]

yes all those need removing 

i suggest you read the manual a few more times   and before you start set the engine to No1 TDC on compression stroke  and position  mark all  you take off  

you may get confused with the timing chain timing   the cam sprocket has 4 holes  but uses 2 bolts  each set/pair of holes gives you a 1/4 deg turn it over and that gives more 

so that gives you 1 deg of adjustment 

do you have a dial indicator   as this makes the setting of the cam lobe top dead centre  much easier/more accurately

more clues on that when you get close to reassembly 

Pete

[JohnD]

Woody,

Finding TDC is straightforward.   As long as your damper pulley had not slipped, the timing marks are yoyur guide, but check that No.1 bore has both valves closed - ie its on the firing stroke.       (If you suspect the pulley has slipped, talk to me about a check on my test rig!)

Then replacing the dizzie drive cog is fiddly:

1/ See where the drive dog on the top should be, pics in the WSM.  Note the the dog slot on top is offset, so must be thr right way around.

2/ Look to see where is the drive dog on the bottom of the shaft, the oil pump drive.     Turn the oil pump so that the dogs will fall together as you insert the cog, and the upper drive dog will be in the correct position.     This is best done with a length of tube or rod, with slot in the end, but screwdriver may do.

3/ Now insert the cog.  Because it is a bevel drive cog, you have to start several degrees away from wear you want it to settle.    From memory it will turn clockwise as it goes in, about 20 degrees (Spread your fingers apart - they will be a bit more than that!)

4/  It can be difficult to know that the oil pump dogs have engaged.     Some kind of depth gauge is handy - a marked pencil would do, but a vernier gauge makes you feel like a proper engineer, and they aren't expensive!    Measure how deep the cog goes when you know it's not right, then when it goes deeper you know it IS right!

Good luck!

JOhn

PS Cam setting, mark it beforehand, "reassembly is the reverse of dissassembly"!     BUt if that can't work, then rather than trying the "so many degrees before TDC" method, consider the "Equal Lift on Overlap" method.   See my article: https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7770-equal-lift-on-overlap-the-other-cam-timing-method/&tab=comments#comment-102165

[Pete Lewis]

and dont ever dot the sprocket anywhere on its mounting face  

having found this on a really noisy engine  doesnt matter how tight the dots hold the gear off and boy does it rattle 

Pete

[Arlurt]

Hi Woody2000,

Is your old Fast Road Cam serviceable?  Would you sell it?

Karl.

[Woody2000]

When I do take it out Karl I can let you know 

[Arlurt]

Thanks Woody.

I'm rebuilding a tweaked 2500 engine at the moment that might suit a warmer cam than the standard one it has.

Message me when you're ready.

Karl.