Triumph GT6+ Restoration thread

[yelohumblebee]

Hi all,

I've never blogged a build before, so please be kind. I always start a project with the best intentions to log my build, but never do get around to it. Maybe this will be the first?

Myself:
Definitely a backyard mechanic, I have no professional experience, but am willing to have a go. I've since done 'basic' restorations on a VW beetle, Land rover S3, Porsche 924 and a handful of motorcycles. By basic I mean remove everything, get it cleaned, replace anything that needs replacing, get it working, and reattach. I don't like to focus on cosmetics, as it takes a lot of time and money, and I haven't got the space or facilities to do any of it myself. I focus most of my energy in getting the vehicles mechanically sound, and rebuilding wiring harnesses. 

The Car:
Yeeeesh. Right. So. Picked her up for a hefty sum (embarrassed to say...) but given they're pretty rare, and I've always wanted one I said WHY NOT. I did not go into it with open eyes, as turns out finding parts for a GT6+ / MK2 are challenging at times. The car is a US Import, brought it from the sunny, wonderfully dry state of California. It was wrapped red, but was a complete car sans interior and door windows. A field inspection had me notice the brake and clutch lines were new so that saved me a painful job! I knew it ran as I had a video of it doing so. I've since reached out to the previous owner, a nice fella in the States who confirmed the works he'd done on the car. His intention was to track it, as he ran a wee tuning shop, hence why the brakes etc were redone, and the interior was missing. It also came with a braided fuel line system and a racing fuel cell, although the fuel cell inner carcass was missing, so basically an empty steel box with some 'racing' decals on it. 

Status:
I had it sit around for some time but since have done the following:

- removed the wrap. Turns out the car is a metallic red that's faded to a somewhat salmony orange? 
- removed the braided fuel system
- rebuilt the stromberg carbs
- clean the plugs
- source myself a mk3 fuel tank, that i've had professionally 'modified' to look like a mk2 tank (simple enough, blanked the side filler neck, used some similar diameter pipe and refit to the rear. Finished product looks good!)
- sourced some quarterlight glass (from this forum! if the seller catches this blog, I am so grateful for your kindness!)
- sourced some MK3 interior trim, TBC if I can use any of it (it was gifted to me by the same person who I bought the quarterlights off)
- got the engine running! I've managed to get the engine to run for a few carb-fulls of fuel, and it seems to idle and rev well! 

Oh, and the previous owner wanted to 'pay homage' to the Quaker State GT6+, so built a custom straight pipe side exit exhaust for the car - it sounds absolutely terrifying, in a good way!

 

My intentions:
get the car to a mechanically sound state, so I can comfortably and safely take it for long drives. This means:

- Fuel system Rebuild: I've got myself an electric Facet inline pump. Unsure whether to use copper fuel lines, or use rubber R6 hose instead? Any advice is appreciated on this front. 
- Lighting and electrica: get the car lights to work completely, and the main gauges to work ie fuel level, coolant temp, speedo, rev (need to check if it has one) and maybe install a fuel pressure and oil pressure gauge as well. Any advice on those is appreciated.
- Seats and Seatbelts: either have the current ones (tatty vinyl covers, disintegrating foam) remade, or get some cheap spares from elsewhere.
- General service: fluid check and change etc. 

 

Future Plans:
If I can achieve a state where the vehicle is safe to legally and sensibly drive on the road, then I'd look to either spend more time and money on it, or pass it onto someone with more funds and desire. I've never owned a little classic sports car, so who knows, maybe it'll capture my heart!

[Colin Lindsay]

That could be a lot of work, but the main thing is to make it a lot of enjoyment during it.

Keep us posted and updated; we'll learn as much from you and what you do as you might from us.

Is that a Landrover hardtop behind it?

[Paul H]

Welcome aboard , loads of help and advice here though we do like photos . A couple of suggestions don’t purchase R 9 from EBay as there’s a lot of fake . How do I know ? Best to buy Gates Barricade . The club shop sells this brand so does Moss . If you do go down the route of an electric fuel pump I used the Huco 133010 which is a pull pump and situated in the engine bay . In my Vitesse it’s by the battery . There is no need for a pressure gauge . Target price £45 ish . You would also need an inertia switch 

Paul 

[Pete Lewis]

welcome aboard  you have some fun to come 

+1 for gates barricade   not R6 thats obsolete 

+1 for pauls note of fake rubber hose there is some real rubbish on sale 

Pete

[Ian Foster]

Welcome indeed. Looks like a sound basis for a restoration and hopefully rust free having lived in CA.

Looks as though you have a tubular exhaust manifold, but not one I would immediately recognize. That side exhaust can't have given much space for silencer(s), so not surprising that it is terrifyingly loud.

The plastic fuel lines look a bit scary, but you'll be changing those as part of the carb rebuild. How sound are the plastic spindle connectors.

I have a (fairly standard) 1969 Mk2 so will be pleased to offer my tuppence if you need any references.

Ian

[yelohumblebee]

Hi all, update on the build. Plans for the weekend fell through, and given it was raining all weekend, i took the opportunity to focus my efforts on the car. 

Saturday:
Tasks completed

• cleaned and vacuumed the interior of the vehicle. Car looks a lot better now, and I was able to thoroughly assess its state. Turns out it isn't as 'rust' free as i'd been told. The RHS (passenger cuz she's LHD) footwell, battery tray and sill have all been repaired in the past. Whomever did it, did a cracking enough job! I did however, also find some holes in the floor pan by the drivers side... No good! checked online and a bloody floor pan is more than £120! More on that later. 
  

 

• removed old wiring loom, as I was going to be 'making' my own. May need some guidance on getting the alternator wired up correctly... Speaking of which, I had that removed and tidied up. Cleaned the spade connectors and sprayed some contact cleaner into the motor windings. I must admit, I did attempt to take the alternator apart, but whilst trying to undo one of the three casing securing bolts, the head sheared. So I guess that's a problem to be fixed for another time. Sleeping dogs and all that...
   
• removed the steering column and all switch gear. Wasn't sure what the state of the switch gear was, and I felt it would be fun just to remove the column and tinker with it for a bit. I've since restored both stalks. I love how simply mechanical older electronics were. 
  
  
   
• installed a new generic fuse box. Bought this one off ebay, felt it was a good punt, and would be easier than playing around with the old, worn out fuse box.
  
   
• wired up the starter motor, ignition coil and drew cable for the fuel pump. This was the main achievement for me, as it's been a milestone of mine for some time. Everything's wired in, and works well. I've got a pretty weird 'ignition' sequence going on... The previous owner has a battery isolator switch on the RHS wing, so the ignition sequence is: a) twist isolator switch to ON b) insert key into ignition module on dash c) twist ignition key to ON d) flip up RED ignition toggle switch e) flip up fuel pump toggle switch f) flip and hold starter motor momentary toggle switch. I know, I know, what a bloody faff! But i do it because it's cool! And I think having a starting sequence will add to the ceremony of the vehicle. If i ever get it going. Or I could just look like a plonker. 
  
   
• tidied up the rev counter and speedometer gauges. There's a sure level of satisfaction that comes with gently taking apart an old Smiths gauge, cleaning the dial face, glass, touching up the needle and replacing it back together. I find it cathartic.
  
  
  

 

Sunday:

• Repaired the body pan by the drivers side. Figured since I planned on doing fuel related jobs soon, i'd rather get any welding work completed soon, whilst everything is dry and exposed. Simple enough process, cut out the rotten area, made some templates from cereal boxes, cut to size with some sheet steel i had spare, coerced it into the correct shape, spot welded into position... this was a tiresome but fun process, that took me nearly four hours to complete. Until now i'd never done a repair of this scale. The most i'd done is weld patches, and once helped my pal replace his van door sill, but that was with a new metal panel we cut down to size. Forming sheet metal into a 'tub' was challenging. It's incredible what you can achieve with a block of wood, a hammer and a chisel of sorts (I used the blunt end of my metal file...). Anyway, spot welded the home beaten panels on (yes, two panels as they sheet metal I had wasn't wide enough!), and touched up as many pin holes as I could, and covering the welds with some 2-part epoxy, finished off with some red oxide primer. I'm not too bothered by the outcome, in fact i'm quite pleased. It ain't a show winner, but I think it'll do nicely for now. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

 

• Fuel pump fitment!!!!!! Been waiting for this moment for some time! Finally got around to fitting the pump to the car. Previous poster, I read your comment about a 'puller' type Huco pump. but I'd already paid for and opened the bister pack for the one I got, so I figured I'd use it anyway. Mounted it to the underside of the rear boot pan, just after the rear cross member, in the hope it would act as natural protection. I wired it into the power to see if the switch worked okay, and to my relief it did. However, the pump makes a very loud noise, owing to the fact it's a 'plunger' type mechanism, that's mounted sans damping material to the very thin, hollow boot pan, in a car without any sound deadening nor insulation...
  Plumbed in some temporary hose as well, so I can understand my preferred route of choice. Any advice on how to mount the rubber hose to the frame? P clips I presume? What if I simply used some zip ties (as I have done lol). My biggest fear with zip ties is the heat from the exhaust may melt them. On the topic of fuel lined, I have a roll of R6 SAE J30 (I thin that's the code unsure) that I used on my previous builds, should I not use that? Seems a shame for it to go to waste? I'm happy running the car on higher octane fuel E5 for now... guidance appreciated. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  I spent a solid 8 hours each day working on the car, and whilst 'm pleased with the progress, there is still a lot to be done....Sign. I just want to drive the wee car. NIght!

[Ian Foster]

Good progress being made.

Chassis looks to be in good condition and a nice colour too. Might you paint the rest of the car to match?

Is that fuel line routed through the shell. Probably a legacy from the race prep. Normal route is alongside the chassis alongside the brake line in a combination plastic clip.

New looms are available from Autosparks (and probably others) and were about £120ish when I rebuilt my car in 2010/11. A bargain in my opinion, considering the work involved.

Rubber bobbins are available to isolate the fuel pump from the body.

I see you have the original cast exhaust manifold in the spares pile.

Keep up the good work. It will get easier as the days lengthen and the weather improves. At least you have a spacious garage and an impressive collection of other cars.

Ian

[Josef]

Unfortunately E5 fuel still needs R9 hose, so definitely wouldn’t bother with the R6!

I’d agree with Ian on buying a loom if you want a stock look one, they’re closer to £350-400 now though if I remember correctly. Tracking down all the right gauges and colours of wire to build your own takes a long time, on top of the time required to figure out exactly what you need (I’ve only done a heavy refurb, and that was bad enough)! Personally I’d consider building my own using single colour wires and marker tags, but would buy if going for standard colours. Autosparks will also incorporate mods for alternator fitment etc which is handy. 

[yelohumblebee]

Hi all, no work done on the vehicle for some time, one of my other cars seems to have shit the bed, so I'll have to focus stress, time and funds to getting her back to a decent standard! I really should get a modern car... but even modern cars break down, right? 

@ Ian, thanks for the feedback, I don't think i'll be painting the car if I'm honest, as i said the main goal is to get it on the road with minimal investment on the aesthetics, not least till i've enjoyed driving it a bit. The hose you see in the chassis is the brake line for the rear, which after having jacked the car up may need rerouting as there's a wee leak coming from one of the brass T pieces. 

@ Josef, i've got a few looms that came with the car altho I think given my bare bones ambition, building the harness is an OK tactic for now. I may 'refurb' the stock units that came with the car and sell them off / keep them as spare. 

Anyone know what to do about the missing transmission tunnel cover? Would anyone happen to have a spare sat lying about?