Nick Jones

If you can get 1st easily and reverse without a crunch immediately after dipping the clutch while sitting stationary with the engine idling, there's not much to worry about on the clutch front. 2nd gear synchro is usually the first to die as it gets works quite hard in both directions. The working less well when hot than cold is a bit unusual though - tends to be the other way around when the baulk rings are worn. Possibly the detent springs in the hub are getting weak. Is it worse going up or down the gears? You could try a different gear oil (Redline MT90 is good with tired syncros), otherwise I reckon it's double de-clutch or overhaul time. Nick

Pad choice is really important. Completely changes things. For me, going from "standard" pads to M1144 completely changed the experience from needing both feet and bending the seat frame for even fairly moderate stopping (almost like being in a continuous state of pad fade), to being able to lock the wheels with a firm shove. The problem is that the modern pads sold for the 16 series caliper are mostly intended for the Fords that were fitted with them (Cortinas, Capris and higher powered Escorts), which had servos, so the pad material is just too hard. The originals were asbestos based and much softer. The DS2500s are a bit down on cold bite compared to the M1144 but don't take much warming and are really good and consistent once warm. We did 100 track miles at Castle Coombe one day last summer and while it was brake problems that sent us home slightly before the end, it was judder caused by massive build up of dust in the drums at the rear that did it. If anyone has a source for top quality rear shoes, I'd really like to hear it! Good luck with BCC and the steel wheels, but I do tend to agree with Clive that if you are going to use the brakes that hard for long periods then vented discs are well worth the effort. I (again) teetered on the edge of converting to vented (using Capri discs and spaced 16P calipers) before ordering the new pads. Nick

I've just received a new set of DS2500 pads for the standard 16P calipers, which will be going onto my Vitesse tomorrow to replace the previous set of DS2500s that went on there in 2009. They've survived multiple Alpine/Pyrenean passes (5 x 10CRs), a flying lap of the Nordschleife and a couple of trackdays, but are now pretty much worn out. £ 90 a set but still decent value I reckon. Never faded, even at the 'ring, where they took a tremendous beating - think smoke, melting bearing grease and blue discs! Usually get problems at the back first. Before those I had Mintex 1144s, which are fine road pads with slightly more cold bite (as Clive says), but can be faded (pad fade) if used hard. They were SO much better than the various standard offerings (including Green Stuff) I'd tried before - the car was downright scary until I fitted them. I've never experienced fluid fade (loss of pedal due to boiling) on the Vitesse, with decent quality DOT 4, changed every year. Have had it on my (1500) Herald with the type 14 calipers (not a good feeling), cured by upgrading to Vitesse brakes. Nick

Not 1500 as they have HS4 carbs with angled flanges. I've had one very like the OPs in the past that I took off a 1300 Dolomite. I can't be sure if it was original to that car though - was there ever 1300TC Dolly? I pulled the tube out and tapped the hole for a plug. I wondered about 1300TC FWD as they have the servo connection, but they also seem to have the PCV valve fitted direct, so different again. Nic

You could convert it to 2L. The biggest difference I can think of offhand is the size of the headt studs. Mk 1 are 3/8" and Mk2 7/16". Best solution is to drill your Mk1 head for the bigger studs, or, I suppose, use the Mk2 head with domed pistons like the later 2L.......... Nick

The engine will fit as the cylinder block is functionally the same, but some parts need to be swapped over. Sump: The 2.5 sump has a slightly angled base, which doesn't matter very much and is deeper in the front section, which will probably give clearance problems with the steering rack. The choices are to remodel the 2.5 sump to clear the rack or to fit the 2.0 sump. If fitting the 2.0 sump you will have to make some dents in it to clear the longer throw of the big ends for cylinders 1,2 and possibly 3. Backplate: You need the Vitesse backplate fitted to match the gearbox - easy swap. Flywheel: use the Vitesse flywheel. The 2.5 one weighs as much as a small planet and moves the clutch further back causing all kinds of problems. Note that you need to fit a Vitesse/GT6 spigot bush in the back of the crankshaft. The 2.5 crank does have the hole for this. Front plate: Has the "legs" for the 2.5 engine mounts. You need to cut these off or swap the plate from your other engine. Some Mk1 engines have different front plates - yours probably isn't early enough to be a problem. Engine mounts: The bosses on the side of the block are always tapped, so you can bolt your Vitesse engine mount brackets on no problem. Manifolds: All 2.5 engines have the Mk2 head so you will need manifolds to match. The "MG" prefix on your 2.5 engine implies it is a PI engine with the earlier "132" cam, which is good if it hasn't been rebuilt and changed since it left the factory. 1.5" carbs will be a bit small for it, but will work ok with the correct needles. Should go very well. A higher geared diff will help alot, either a 3.63 or 3.27. If no overdrive then definitely 3.27 - but don't go drag-racing because you'll break it! Nick

He had a couple at least last weekend. Nick

Ok, fair enough. Was the stamped number you gave earlier from the GT6 head? If so what is the number on the TR6 head? Bottom line - if your 2L engine has domed pistons, which you should be able to see if you turn the engine to TDC, take no.1 plug out and shine a decent torch in the plug hole, you can fit the TR6 head. This link has head numbers and some related details though not sure it adds much to that given on Chris Witors site. http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/?page_id=653 Nick

Why do you want to fit a TR6 head? Dependent of the year of the donor car it will either be effectively the same as what you already have with same chamber volume and same valve sizes, or possibly even have the smaller exhaust valve. Flow wise, as mentioned above, apart from random manufacturing variations between heads due to the way the cast-in areas of the ports match up to the machined areas, the only heads that are different are the 219016 stamped ones from the 2500S saloon, which is meant to give the best flow in standard form (according to Chris Witor). The 219016 has small exhaust valves (not convinced this makes a huge performance difference and they certainly crack less often) and also a deeper chamber so would need a skim to get you back to the compression ratio you have now. Nick

M12 studs as fitted OE on the Land Rover Freelander Mk1 are threaded to the shank and work even with steel wheels. http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/1239-freelander-wheel-studs-mgf-wheels-on-spitfire/ Nick

One more for you list of checks, especially if the problem didn't appear right away. I fitted some new rear shoes to my Vitesse 2L a few weeks before doing the Club Triumph 10 Countries. Initially all was fine but within a few hundred miles we started to get brake judder and a pulsing pedal. This got worse the further we went to the extent that hard braking actually made the steering shake. This rather slowed us down in the mountains. I was convinced the problem was at the front but couldn't work out why as I'd not messed with the front and pads and discs were well proven over a number of previous events but not badly worn. When we got home I checked everything over carefully at the front and could find nothing. Then I removed the drums too be greeted with the most monstrous amount of dust. I knocked/brushed this all out and the problem was immediately solved. It recurs every couple of thousand miles though. The shoes material is clearly not right. Where did your shoes come from? Nick

Comprehensive diagnostic process. It's an engine with some wear. But the 2L six dies slowly and it'll keep soldiering on. A head overhaul will probably help even up your compressions but I don't think it'll have any effect on the oil consumption. Without an external rocker feed there's not alot of oil going to the top end. In the absence of any significant oil leaks most of the oil loss is via the rings and being burnt. As already noted, the type of oil used will affect the consumption and not all 20/50s are equal in this. You can take the expensive oil route or stick with a mid-range one and add a can of Wynns which I have found to be very effective at reducing oil consumption. My Vitesse engine survived on the stuff for about 5 years with it improving the oil use from 1L/300 miles to 1L/ 1000 miles+ and that included some fairly testing treatment over long distances. Yes, it's a bodge, but alot cheaper than a rebuild if the engine is otherwise running well. Nick

As already said this is almost certainly head gasket failure with one cylinder full of water preventing it from turning over. You can check this by removing the plugs again and turning the engine by hand. I think you'll find that it spits coolant out of at least one cylinder. This is almost certainly due to the wrong gasket being used. I'm guessing here but it sounds like what happens when the gasket for a flat block is fitted to a block with recesses around the bores. Actually 300 miles is a bit further than they usually get! The head gasket will need to be replaced with the correct one and the oil and filter also being replaced due to the water contamination and it needs to be done ASAP to limit any corrosion damage. I'd be asking the company that the did the rebuild to sort it under warranty and to get the car recovered to their premises if you don't have AA/RAC etc. Nick

The sudden stop suggests ignition to me. Fuel starvation usually gives a short period of rough running before it stops completely and will often fire again briefly afterwards. You seem to be saying that you have both fuel delivery and spark present immediately after it stops - which is odd as it's suggests it shouldn't have stopped in the first place I can't think of a mechanical issue that would cause it to stop - not at least one that would then allow it to fire up again once cooled.. Presumably it's not flooding out (again, generally a period of rough running before it gives up)? You could try squirting some easy-start or carb cleaner into the carbs just after it's failed and see if that allows it to run briefly. It would prove the ignition side. Have to say that I'm tending towards ignition - rotor arm (I've had very similar issues with the car dying after about 15 minutes running and stranding me in the same layby several times), distributor cap, coil, condensor/electronic ignition module, possibly ballast resistor or resistor wire. Nick

Assuming you are talking about one of the rocker box holding studs, I have seen this before more than once. IMO the solution (ok for long term too) is to lower the level of coolant to below the top of the head, remove the offending stud, dry/de-grease the threads and reassemble with a good quality lock and seal compound. Loctite will doubtless have something suitable. It's worked for me. Nick

Really - most have the opposite opinion, on 2.5 pistons/rings anyway http://www.wishboneclassics.com/tech/tr6/engine/triumph-tr6-cast-piston-comparison What is your objection to the County rings? Nick

Andy, PM me your email and I'll send some info. Nick

First post on the TSSC forum....... Nothing to add to the above really. Any of the 3 mentioned routes will give a decent result (though must confess I know very little about the details of the Jigsaw conversion) and will be a worthwhile improvement on the rotoflex shaft. Also rather easier to assemble to the car. As for the "harshness" comment, I was rather pleased to get rid of the roto "boing" effect and find the car easier to drive smoothly with CVs. My Vitesse has now had CVs in place for 11 years and approximately 40k miles. I've had no issues. I did convert my conversion (!) at the 20k mark to change to the Rover 100 based solution (devised by Josh Bowler) from my original Ford-based prototype, but the same Volvo inner CVs have been there since the outset and they weren't new then. Fit and forget was my aim - working so far! Nick