SpitFire6

Hi, Dave. Yes, mineral oil will lose the top end viscosity rating when worn and will need replacing. Proper synthetic oil will not lose oil pressure as you experienced as it was a 40 to begin with and chemicals were added to make it a 15 at lower temperature. Your 15W40 oil started as a 15 and chemicals were added to make it a 40 at 100 C., these additives broke down and your oil became a SAE 15... Cheers, Iain.

Hi, No such thing as 20W or 50W at 100 C . I have re-uploaded below. 50 has a higher viscosity compared to a 20 @ 100 C. 50 will create a higher back pressure than a 20 at 100 C and will have less flow. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, If you have managed to find the time to read the above; At least two things should apparent. 1) ZDDP is a myth. 2) 20W50 is a very bad choice. I recommend this oil: Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - 6 Litres: 5L + 1L £49.90 from Opie oils. It scores in the top five for protection, and even though a little thick, is a far better choice than any 20W50 oil could hope to be. So, dougbgt6, that's my case. Cheers, Iain. So,

Hi, If you want the facts about motor oil and some time to read. Click the link below.. (The info on this blog was updated on August 17, 2017 https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ Hope it helps you chose a better oil. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I have just ordered two oil sample analysis kits from millers. So I can show the effect of lower viscosity oil on our engines, I know two is not going to prove all, but will buy more. 20W is no good for getting oil around the engine when cold. Oil flow is very important. 10W will give lower pressure as the flow is greater. 50 mineral oil is surpassed by 40 Ester oils on all the specs I have seen. Also, at fast road speeds will also use less power. "mineral" oil will lose the top rating when it is starting to get worn, while Ester will not, as it started as a high "grade" in the first place. ZDDP provides a protection when the boundary layer breaks down. If the oil film does not break down then ZDDP serves no purpose. My car is a daily driver and I drive about 300 miles a week, After the first test I will start to use Ester 0W40 oil and if results are good will go to 0w30 to prove the point. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, You are correct. It is not correct to call anyone a fool. Apologies, It was wrong for me to say so. Iain.

Hi, Why is the author promoting old tech oils? Only an unenlightened fool would put 20w50 oil in a small chassis engine car engine. 10W50 or 10W40 fully synthetic is a much better choice. PAO synthetics (Ester) are not mentioned, yet surpass old tech. Just because you read something on the internet does not make it fact. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, All the above. Aluminium radiator is the big difference from a normal Triumph. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Richard, The AF has a higher boiling point, but its thermal property are poor compared to water. Straight Ethylene G or Polyethylene G are an excellent antifreeze when added to water. On their own they are not and the freezing point is actually raised above 60%?. EG and PG both have no anti-corrosion properties when mixed with water, hence the additive packages and their limited life span. I use the anti-corrosion additive as I believe 2% is the recommend mix ratio and I have nice water to remove the heat. No good in freezing conditions though. Water is the best liquid to conduct heat and promote corrosion without anti-corrosion inhibitors being added to the mix. These wear out. unfortunately, water freezes around zero C and expands when it does so. 4c is when water is least dense I believe? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, This AF is florescent green and good up to 5 years or 150K miles. 20% mix for winter should last a long time. I only run AF during the winter and swap to water and corrosion inhibitor around this time so its long life is not the reason I utilize it; I have mixture of metals in my heavily modified cooling system that I believe this coolant can protect. The Ankorsol inhibitor will protect at very low dilution levels and allows me to run 98% water for maximum cooling during the summer. IMHO, the cheap blue stuff is cheap and I believe the additive package is cheap. Excellent freeze protection though. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Why use blue when you can use the long life stuff? Will get a picture of what i use in the Morrow. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I remember reading about the concrete floor and 12v battery myth somewhere a while ago... I use a leisure/marine LM75 battery. CCA and AHr are fine. (12V 75AH 600A) Starts a 6 Ok and will deep discharge and recover, unlike a conventional car battery. 243mm by 175mm by 175mm, so fits perfect. All of the 190mm high batteries I have checked have no greater capacity or cranking amps than the standard 175mm high batteries. I thought Hafords batteries were way too expensive. I would expect to pay between 30 to 55 pounds max. Do make sure you get over 13.8 volts on the battery when charging and closer to 14.7 if you want it to last. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, The gas you are seeing is probably not air. The gas is likely to be vapour. Not all gases are air. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, GPS trackers. I have bought several over the years. They all require a SIM card & 3G's card will not work in all the ones I have bought as the units are not 3G. I use EE £10 a month. I'm not surprised the club one is no more as it was vastly overpriced. They are a bit fiddle to setup. Most SMS you a google Earth link after being texted or/and called. The call costs nothing as the unit hangs up the call. Around 30 quid will get you a decent one with two antenna's or built in ones. Under £140ish will get you a very nice unit that can integrate with an aftermarket alarm. This is the best one I have: http://www.topkodas.lt/modules.php?name=Products&pa=showpage&pid=3 Cheers, Iain. PS. there is some overpriced crap out there!

Hi, Have you ensured you have no pressure inside the crankcase/engine? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I ditched the heater valve about 20 years ago. I ditched the mechanism in the car about ten years ago. I always drive the Spit with the driver window open and my arm out as I am a FB. Ahh, the splash of water and Sh1te in my face and mouth. I have a normally closed DC operated water solenoid with 13mm hose tails, but never felt the need to fit it. Out of habit I still periodically place my fingers over the demister vent to check I have heat and therefore coolant. To adjust the fan speed, i have a 2 volt to 24 volt controller that blows and squeals just fine with out lights. LOL Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I mentioned above I run EG. I am only using it now as temperatures can still drop to zero. Once the cold weather as gone; it's back to water and inhibitor. Happy days. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, If your worried about EG and the effects on animals and environment; use PG. I run long life EG and good for at least 3 years, could be 5, will check brand. Water-less stuff? If you get it for free including the water remover, try it. Otherwise don't waste your money. A better idea is water and 3%ish inhibitor; non better if temperature never drops to freezing. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, The parts have been sent as just received an email; 1 (each) 213-7-12 wiper blade, bayonet fitting, curved screen - 300mm long 7mm bayonet 10.40 1 (each) 213-7-14 wiper blade, bayonet fitting, curved screen - 350mm long 7mm bayonet 13.15 2 (each) 830B-7 wiper arm chrome, spline fitting - bayonet fitting 7mm 17.50 I already have a 13" & 11" blade, so will be interesting, with the adjustable straight arms if i can find a good match. Will have to get my washer working after over two years and flush all the mould out of the tubing. RainX is good but, proper sweep wipers will save me having to reapply every 3 weeks. Cheers, Iain.

Pete, I'm changing my order from 5mm arms and wipers to 7mm. The www.s-v-c.co.uk website shows two different 14w Wheel boxes. Are the wheels the same diameter or is the pitch the same? Another variable? Cheers, Iain.

Hi Pete, So the change from 5mm to 7mm was an upgrade to increase rigidity. I have just emailed vintage to cancel the 5mm units I ordered. When It's been cancelled, I will be re-ordering the 7mm ones. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Pete, Thanks for the link to vintagecarparts.co.uk. Have ordered a pair of adjustable arms and a set of wipers. Many thanks, Iain.

Hi Pete, Many thanks for your prompt reply and data. The 4 amps maximum explains why I had a motor burn out many years ago when the wipers stuck on a dry screen and the ignition fuse did not blow. I have a 100 degree wheel that I will fit tomorrow while checking the points you have mentioned. I'm hoping the installed wheel is greater than 100, as it will explain a few issues; the nearside over-shoots even though I have 12" blades. The off-side does not seem to sweep enough though. I had a look at the shop offerings online and in the parts catalogue. A bit confusing as codes in book are not shown in the online checkout. Also, the online is lacking greatly on details. They do not match. Work in progress I guess. Google has shown me that there are two types of arms, with widths of 5 mm and 7 mm. I guess 5 mm is early and 7 mm is later? Google has shown me lengths of blades of 11", 12" & 13". I feel 13" is wrong and mine are 12", but 11" would fix one of my problems. But maybe the lengths are specific for the fitting widths? Thanks, Iain.

Hi, I have posted same question on another fourum, but it's down the list with no replies, so thought I would try here, before moving on. Some questions relating to a late 1500 Spitfire: What is the correct length of the wiper arm? What is the correct length of wiper blade? Running current of motor at the two speeds on a correctly functioning motor? Correct angle of sweep (Number stamped on big round gear thing)? I can measure my current, but, what's correct? I have been looking at adding three relays or an amplifier to increase the voltage to the motor. But this is not the question at the moment. Anybody have the true and correct figures for the above will surely have a wonderful new year. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, If there are no holes in the windows; I would buy some PVC window polish and make them clear again. Cheers, Iain.