SpitFire6

Hi, If you increase the pressure your readings will be worse. Maybe the leak-past is normal? Cheers, Iain.

Hi Alan, at what pressure were you getting 30-40% leak-down? Cheers, Iain.

So the front with double wishbones are more tolerant to a width increase? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I think I would just brake harder without even registering if I had increased my tyre circumference 5%? Difference between a new and road legal tyre could be 6mm on the diameter? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I have used 145,155.165.175.185.195 & 215 tyre widths on my car. I have used 80,70,60,50 & 40 profiles on my car. I have used 13" 15" & 16" wheels on my car. I've used 4.5J, 5J, 6J & 7J wheels. I have used 1/2" & 3/8" wheel spaces. I have had long & short driveshafts fitted. Swing & fixed spring. The +/- 5% maximum difference in diameter has never once made me want to consider the negligible effect it would have on braking due to different brake rotor speeds. Most of my choice for wheel tyre combos were soon changed. Maybe I should have considered this? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, so you are saying if wider than standard there is no difference in stopping distance? Cheers, Iain.

Hi again Pete, I understand about torque implications, but rather small on a road car (+/- 5%)? I was referring to the "Brake efficiency". You referring to tyre/road or maybe pad/disk? Cheers, Iain.

Hi Pete? A reduction because of what? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, idling the car to warm it up is bad for the engine. If you start the engine take the car for a long drive to heat the oil up properly and to guard against damaging condensation. Don't use the car engine to charge/maintain the battery. Buy a battery conditioner if you don't have one. Dehumidifiers, electric if you can afford the running costs or chemical ones are a good idea. If I had a garage & money I would put it in a CarCoon or whatever its called. I have neither and my car is my daily. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I have in the past soldered wires together inside an already present wiring harness that was never going to flex. It was a pain to do, but the repair was invisible and was inside a dry place of the car. I certainly would not do the same on the harness to the headlights that flexed. Soldering requires a high level of skill. Crimping does not and every connection is the same quality. Red, yellow & blue standard crimps look kak. When I have been forced to use them I have a selection of aircraft heat-shrinkable ones that look good. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, below is explained better than I can: ""While it may be painful for some people to hear, the reality is that in the automotive industry this has long ago been settled. The gold standard is to (properly) crimp wires where possible. This is what the industry does, and what you should do, too. Whether you’re splicing or attaching a terminal makes no difference. To verify this just take a look under the hood and you’ll find hundreds of crimps, but virtually no soldering. As long as you have the right tools, crimping is the way to go."" Source: https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/ There are 101 reasons crimping is superior to soldering wires. Ask Mr Google. Can't really add much more to that. If anyone wants to solder wires in their car; go ahead, it's your car after all. I just don't recommend anybody does. A lot of problems with multipin connectors is not the fault of the crimping but wrong type of connector or corrosion of the mating surfaces to name a couple. ACF-50 or similar grease prevents a lot of problems. I will soon be adding a lot more connectors to my car. Some of the connectors will be screw type. A poor choice on a car, but I will not be soldering instead. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I believe (Google) that it is possible to chrome plate stainless steel. No idea how much or the type of stainless steel that can be plated. Only googled it for a minute as I guess it would cost the price of the SS bumpers & the cost of plating & the extra cost as it's not the normal ferrous. Datsun would be ashamed of the corrosion of that rear overrider. Colin, that's not right that you were sold that kak. Unless you really parked it on a rock in the middle of the North sea for ten years.. My bumper was from Rimmers. I know it was from Rimmers as the insurance company provided the mounting hardware in Rimmer bags. (I told the insurance company that I would fit the rear bumper myself, as when the 3rd party body damage was repaired at their cost, as they were still waiting for the bumper to arrive). Cheers, Iain.

How about gender-neutral, non-white eraser coated RoHS compliant clamping ring for RoHS compliant non-lethal non-phallus bullet connector. Makes a good civil connection if you use fist grease (Available from Amazon & safe for rubbers). Cheers, Iain.

Hi, A clean and packing with ACF-50 electrical grease or similar with new females works a treat. Old females might have lost their tension and are cheap enough. Never solder the wires together for obvious reasons. As mentioned above, There are loads of weather-proof multipin connectors about. All will require the correct crimping tool though. Cheers, Iain. PS. the bullet connectors come in different wire gauge sizes, something to remember.

Hi, The good thing about chrome is it never rusts if plated correctly on a rust free ferrous substrate I obtained a brand new rear GT6 bumper a couple of years ago, could be three years. I never fitted it and it went into the basement about six months ago. I never covered it with any chemical and kept it way above the floor on a non-metallic box. "Good re-chroming will last years and probably pay for itself eventually." I was speaking to a main supplier of Triumph parts and was informed that the part would have come from them, as they supplied the company it came from, and that it was made to a high standard and supplied to the trade. Great I thought. While in the basement last week moving stuff down there wrapped in cling-film and odd bag of silica gel, I noticed a chrome Triumph badge from a rear bumper. Picked it up and wiped off the dirt. As New!!. Took it upstairs. Went to look at the bumper and it had rust spots all over it!!!!! I am sure they will disappear with polish. Very disappointed with the "best" showing rust when it has not even been fitted to my car. I can't send the POS back to the main supplier as I never bought it from them and time has expired. If you buy chromed stuff get the supplier to guarantee it. They probably will not as they just want your money. If I had beyond repair chrome bumpers, I would go stainless steel and make sure I had no galvanic corrosion causing problems. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I've got the Siemens TP700 to fit. Windows CE6.0. I have a USB GPS module, a WiFi/BT module, an SDR for radio & a USB multi-axis G sensor. WinCE software is plentiful. The PLC is a Siemens S7 1215 DC/DC. Local I/O is around 50 digital with 8 analogues I/O. The field, IP67, I/O is around 36 digital and 4 analogue, split across three Balluf Field devices. One at the front, one at the rear and one somewhere else if the local I/O is insufficient. It's all 24VDC powered of course. I have a few 12V to 24V Buck-Boost converters rated at 10 amps output. Most of my lights work between 9 to 28 volts so no need to interface. I've got loads of ULN200XA devices, so should only need a few relays to interface 12 to 24 and vice-versa. Before I can progress; I need to fit the HMI. Will it fit? Can I fit it? Cheers, Iain.

Thanks. It's a shame to flake the paint on the bracket, as it has no rust, but the finish is not a lot worse than the rest of the car. After I fit the HMI. The next minor problem is shoehorning the control box in. LOL. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Colin, My gauges & switches are all software derived and displayed on a touchscreen. The dimensions of the cutout required for the screen are: Mounting cutout, width 197 mm Mounting cutout, height 141 mm Overall depth 63 mm The heater flow control is removed on my car as I have never shut the coolant flow to the heater matrix in 30 years. I do have a small coolant pump on the return line that runs on ignition feed to boost the flow. The directional airflow is not a loss as I always have it on de-mist. Enough air leaks to warm the feet in winter. "That bar is probably structural to some degree, even if only to support the dash or prevent flexing." I see your point, but I need the screen to fit as I have a few grand of stuff that is interfaced to this Screen. I guess I will need to take the cracked top dash cover off and see if I can flatten the control mounting plate? Leaving it there with a slight curve should still provide strength. I really need to get rid of this "flap" of metal that will stop the mounting of the HMI. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, The plate that I have marked with a yellow scribble; is this bolted on or must be ground or bashed with a hammer to remove? Maybe a few spot welds?? I need to remove it. I do not care about losing the vent control as always on demist setting anyhow. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Took a picture where the top of the damper is mounted. The dampers are the ones that were fitted on my 1500 rear end. They saw diffs exploding, wheels separating from the car and UJ's clicking. Now the same dampers are fitted CC rear end, new CC spring, Quaife, brackets on chassis for rear inboard wishbone mounting and GT6 inboard mounting for adjustable wishbones. So I need 1500 ones? I ask as I bought some cheap Indian ones and the garage said they could not fit as bushes were wrong type + bushes on the car were wrong and was probably causing the take-up knock.. Apart from stroke, is the size of bushes different then? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Now there seem to be different dampers for GT6's. I have 1500 Spitfire dampers. I have Canley Classis CC kit and a bracket on the chassis to allow minimal camber change. Clearly, the Spit1500 are wrong types. Are GSA280's still correct as the kits with the chassis bracket show a different type! Confused, Iain.

Thank you, Gully. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Colin, Thanks for that. They were both advertised as front & looked like the front. There is only one type for the GT6 front & that's the same for Spitfire? I just want OEM 1970's quality. So if India or China will be the same or better. I think most of the price comes from labour. Wouldn't you know the correct code for the damper on a GT6 with rotor flex for the rear? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, What are the differences between the GSA 385 and GSA 366? I want for GT6 Mk3 Rotor. Are there others? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, If somebody has their centre dash out: Can somebody tell me the inner distance between the vertical bars? I'm hoping that 141mm or less is the answer. I have a multi-gauge project I want to fit. Cheers, Iain.