SpitFire6

Was she the one that said we were the fifth planet from the sun? & 210 days to Easter?

So milking animals & sometimes drinking it is OK???

Me, I don't do milk. & sugar is bad for me. Humans are the only animals that milk other animals mammary glands & then drinks it. Even calves when grown up stop drinking the stuff. I hear pigs milk is quite nice but the sows put up a fierce fight. As should any creature, when a different species is trying to milk it. Sugar should only be fermented to alcohol, where it is made safe by the liver. Iain.

I hear and see enough Brexit 5h1t3 to not care. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Rather have a cup of Slick50™. Iain.

ZDDP is another additive that some people swear that it's a good thing above certain quantities. LOL

I also talk from experience. Just bought a 206cc 2L @90K miles and Ed the man said it could be good for a car at this mileage with no service history. Cost me over a 100 quid plus. Within 3 days of "clean!": Rear exhaust box fell off and had to be replaced. Lost a tank of fuel. Stuck on a motorway smoking. Apart from all additional costs and time = no difference to MPG or power. LOL. What a **at? Cheers, Iain. PS. Ed China & not me.

Terraclean. What a V.expensive that additive is? Your injectors would have to be mega shagged for it to be worth the expense.

Hi Mark, I thought that welding cable suitable clipped together would be good for rough service. Cable is rated for 400V +. The welding cable I looked at was good for 150ish if not suitably protected. We are talking about a stationary compressor, so your choice of cable is valid/good of course. A flexible cable is normally a better choice over a more rigid one. Apart from cost. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Colin, The main purpose of the panel breaker is to protect the cable when subjected to thermal and short-circuit/v.high current events. Do not touch this one unless you have made some calculations. Moot point as you have already excluded this. But do ensure you compressor breaker is less thermal and mag. It sounds like your breaker is tripping on the thermal setting. Is the motor getting too hot to touch? If not, the breaker is suspect. (Amongst other possible mechanical defects) Thermal protection for a motor is not the same as a cable. A proper motor thermal with magnetic protection and disconnect is not cheap. Do ensure that the single pole consumer breaker you are intending to buy is fitted to the live feed. Some are not from the supplier. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Mark, If you used hi-flex welding cable you would have to install it in a flexible/fixed conduit? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, If additives were useful, the oil/fuel blenders would utilize them in their products much cheaper, when they blend 1000000;s of litres at a time. High concentration additives for car use, concerning cleaning when neglect or too long service intervals have occurred, are useful. Todays Slick 50™ is not the same blend/product as yesteryear... I have used it in the 80's. Today I would not waste my money on this product or similar. I have used STP™. Only in shagged engines though. Slick 50™? Forget it and spend on some modern oil blend. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Colin, equipment might be a capacitor start motor. "A good example of Capacitor start is an air compressor motor." The 2Kw single phase hi speed motors (2 poles) motors I have seen take around 13.5 Amps. Your main MCCB should be at least 16A or maybe 20A if cable allows. Replace that excuse for a breaker with something better though. Nice compressor. If I could weld I would make & connect a desiccant dryer so my dew-point was -30c. Alas, I also have no garage.

Hi, Colin, That "breaker" looks to be el-cheapo kak. It probably is worn out after several resets. I would buy a more accurate and reliable overload device. A C or D B or C curve rated MCCB of the appropriate amps would be a good choice. it will have to be smaller than your wall mounted one that should be sized to protect the cable to the compressor. A motor starter like a GV2 would be perfect & expensive. It would provide thermal and magnetic tripping & can be used to start and stop the compressor. That's what I would do. But I would borrow one from work as I would not spend 50 quid on one with an IP rated box! The capacitor if it is only there for running and not a start type, can be checked by a competent person by measuring the three-phase currents going to the motor. I know your supply is single phase, but the cap is there to allow a single phase to run a three-phase motor. Crude but works if you do not have a 3 phase supply as in your case. The capacitor value is chosen to balance the amps under load. A bad or wrong uF cap will show as unbalanced phases. If you give me the nameplate data for the compressor I can find you a suitable MCCB of eBay. Cheers, Iain.

You da man! Happy to see you. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, You need somebody to check the startup & running current. Voltage off & on load. With these figures, a competent person will determine if the cable, MCCB, MCCB curve & equipment is OK. Let's not forget the most important check; earthing/grounding. It everything was installed correctly by a competent person and the MCCB/breaker trips; Your compressor is the problem. Resetting an MCCB/breaker more than twice in a year would mean to me there is a problem. A problem you need a competent person to fix. BS7671 is what the competent person should "follow". I'm not competent at anything above 24V! So can't help I'm afraid. A "lighter" oil might help? Cheers & good luck, Iain.

Hi, a bit late. If you are wanting to test the switching contacts for low resistance you can use a 4 wire mill-ohmmeter as mentioned above. If you don't need to know the exact resistance value, but would like to know it is low and OK: Power up the solenoid with a car halogen lamp connected as a load for the battery to illuminate thru the solenoid switch. Measure the DC voltage on the millivolts range across the switch contacts. I would want to see tens on millivolts. I would be sad if I saw 100s of millivolts. If you can measure the current thru the lamp, you will be able to calculate resistance and then calculate how many volts are lost on the contacts and whether it has got much life left. Never add a diode across the solenoid thinking it will help the contacts; it will destroy them. A capacitor across the contacts is good for long life. low-level audio & RF are the only contacts that need wetting I/V as mentioned on a previous post. Cheers, Iain

Hi, I have purchased similar and did not worry about the 70's/80's output power levels as I powered an amp OK. If some tit nicks it, not much of a loss. The radio needs a strong signal to work OK as the radio is all software with minimum tuned circuits. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, the "radio" is marked 60 watt X 4. This means 15 watts a channel. 15 watts is an inflated peak value of course. The "radio" is about 5Watts a channel @ best. Impossible to be much higher. One big line as can not press return without screwing things up. Cheers, Iain.

That “radio” is not 60 watt a channel. Lol

Hi, I think I would spend more so I could hear it with the roof down on the motorway. Does it have RCA's out for an amp? Cheers, Iain.

Hi Pete, The "Balance Board" is the shown below. Full of holes. Shame there is no ramp. I just need to train my son how to position the two parts in front of the wheels. He will need to be able to read the magnetic camber gauge as well! Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Deleted a previous post after I reread. Just received my Trakrite & a balance board. The board is a piece of synthetic rubber around the same size and thickness as the Trakrite. No chamfer, unlike the Trakrite. Is it for the opposite wheel? Shame no ramp. Cheers, Iain.

The Sparkrite one pictured was a very nice bit of kit if you only had points. From memory and not off the boxed ones I keep buying from eBay: Electrical contacts had zero wear on the points so timing stayed better. The output voltage from the HT coil was much higher. Also of longer duration, as it was not a CDi unit. Reactive discharge..Bigger improvement if you had a six cylinder. I had the kit version and can remember swapping out the capacitor and the SCR for more expensive ones. It destroyed weakened HT components. My HT leads "glowed" when it was damp. The static timing was easy to set with the inclusion of a lamp. Neon? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I THINK the red is not good if you have copper. Heater matrix etcetera. A reason I quickly dumped (Recycled) the red stuff when I realised that even though I had Al radiator, my heater was copper. Have used Prestone universal since then on all my cars. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Here is the Stromberg Guide: http://www.74tr6.com/pdfs/Stromberg Reference Manual.pdf Cheers, Iain.