SpitFire6

Hi, Here is a picture of the OEM screw. A drop into some phosphoric acid and it will be like new.. Gauge says 11.70mm. Notice the slots along the shaft? Important? Intrested to see what the replacements look like as ordered a lot of them! Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Rotten eggs smell is normally because of Sulphur. Crap fuel in some countries contain higher levels of sulphur. EP oil, AKA, transmission oil contains high levels of Sulphur. You haven't used EP oil in your dash-pots have you? Cheers, Iain.

Hi all. Many thanks. Found and ordered 28 of these: Screw lens #518147 From JP. One of the big companies wanted nearly 50 pence each.. They don't look the same, but, if they fit happy days and cheap enough. Holden have responded to my request for a "L" number, I have given them RTC1176/7 numbers. Had thought of sending some of the rear light units to Africa, as they seem to collect water when fully sealed yet retain it forever. Cheers all, Iain. PS. I will post pictures of OEM and new when received.

Hi, Is the pin missing to reset the indicators? If you don't indicate then its not a problem for you. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Seriously, I like the bumpers. Not the hoist though! Might look at getting my spare & new rear bumper wrapped in vinyl if the price and life is good. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I have just bought 5 sets of EBay to go with the other 6 units I have around the house. Two units are hidden in the Peugeot and another three units at the back of the pantry. So no, I'm not buying any more.. How can i sell the units if they have no screws? Iain.

Hi, reference to the above subject. Where can I buy the ten? screws, that hold the three part lens in place? I have never been able to source them. Also, Is it possible to buy clear indicator lens or get them re-manufactured in clear like the reversing lens? Cheers, Iain.

Hi Doug, A quick google shows this: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?489572-Anybody-used-a-Hall-Effect-ammeter Now, emm, If I need to find a link for one that is analogue and 2"; that might be more difficult... EBay has a lot of dc current transformers if you search. Cheers, Iain. Edit: By best place i mean; clamped around all cables going into the battery +ve terminal, excluding the starter motor cable.

Hi, I would not fit a clock unless there was a spare hole that needed plugging. Oil temperature is more intuitive than oil pressure. Fit a higher cut in oil pressure switch. Mechanical oil pressure nylon hose longevity? Psssh. Ends blowing off; yes. Fit electronic gauge and sender. Mechanical water temperature gauge is useful as reads temp with ignition off. AFR gauge is very useful for the money and expense to fit. Amps +/- is good if Hall effect and sensor fitted in correct place. Volts can be useful, certainly better than a clock. Analogue gauges with added digital display are a nice addition.; Easy to remember a number. 270 degree sweep preferred over standard 90? degree sweep. Additionally, Can somebody tell me the vertical distance between the metalwork of the centre console dash as I want to fit a multi-gauge display? Cheers, Iain.

Duuurh! Hold keys with right hand!!

Hi, The reason my stalks are reversed is I wanted the ignition key on the right. I'm right handed and hold the keys with my left hand. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Hand on heart; Never, ever, worried about what hand to use to indicate/signal. Iain.

Hi, A proper car steering wheel with no wood it sight. I think the only wood on my car might be at the front bottom of the engine under the outer edge of the sump. Cheers, Iain. Edit: Stalks on the correct side as well.

Hi, Nice matching steering wheel and lovely dash. Doesn't look good? For a boat. Cheers, Iain.

In the bathroom, I have the Haynes GT6 manual & 206 manual. When the wife moves them they become TR6 manual & Spitfire manual. It sort of mixes overtime. GT6 prep manual and Mr. Wolfs book also Cheers, Iain.

Hi PeterH AVO MK8 I used at college. Useful if you could calculate the Ohms/Volt load the meter was shunting. Saw my first digital AVO around the same time. We always preferred the digital as the reading was more "true". AVO was fun to bounce the needle to get the trip to pop up. Anodes will not work out of water of course, but going to buy some Zn or Mg ones for the four corners. They always rust, so plenty of water there! Cheers, Iain.

Hi PeteH, Sounds like you were making bleach? Of course not forgetting the chlorine gas? A 10 Quid TDS meter would have been much safer and not kill anyone. LOL. I was talking about measuring the galvanic voltage with a £3 multi-meter on the DC millivolt range. OK I used a Fluke, but the results are the same. Armed with your DVM, the presence of any stray currents is easy to identify. I might end up adding some sacrificial Anodes to stop rusting in the usual damp rust prone problems. Sick of the four comers of the car corroding. Cheers, Iain. PS. I can try and find a link about measuring the voltages if anyone's interested, as easier than me being verbatim.

Hi, in my opinion; The best for a 1500 Spit. inner same diameter as cowling. Got mine for 50 quid off EBay. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, distilled, demineralised or deionised water are not the same. To say that distilled water is; "is advantageous for resisting corrosion within the cooling system" is clearly wrong. It will promote corrosion. Mixed with a concentrated antifreeze is much better that the average tap water though, if this is what was meant? 50/50 or 20ish/80ish + inhibitor for summer is a good choice IMHO. I don't know if the water pump life is effected. zero antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor is good in non freezing conditions. Also, I don't know if the water pump life is effected. I have heard of people running 100% concentrated anti-freeze, but I not. Cheers, Iain

Hi, a couple of points: Running with 100% antifreeze will probably cause your engine to run hot as EG has around half the specific heat of water. It also has a much higher freezing point than 50% mix. I don't think it expands like water when frozen, but your fan belt would not be happy if the coolant was solid. Boiling tap water does not make it soft. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Andy, Mineral oil and 20W50? Not what I would recommended during winter or any other time to be honest. ZDDP was replaced by better additives a long time ago. Never heard of Triumph engines having problems due to the lack of this additive. I haven't. Please share. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, The 10W40 is great for the weather conditions around now. If it was free, I would be putting it in my Triumph. Andy, Why would you not use it in your Triumph? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Millers oil sampling kits have arrived. 6 Liters Mobil1 FS 0W/40 oil arrived days ago from Opie oils. I am unable to run my engine at the moment as my Kenlowe died and having a bad time with a replacement fan due to bull-crap advertised figures. Once I am able to drive the car, I will take it to work to get engine up-to operating temperature and take a sample of the used oil. (5w40 NT Millers GpV). I will N-rig an oil pressure gauge and post oil pressure @ 900/2000/4000 RPM and time for oil pressure light to extinguish in morning, post prior to dumping oil. Of course I hope my engine is OK and the new API SN oil is not going to cause damage. I'm guessing the ferrous content will tell the truth on the second oil test 3000 miles later?