SpitFire6

Hi Clive, I assume if there was metal to metal contact, ie tappets & cam. The Fe would be higher. Material from the shells if there was any contact there. I know the Boron is high in this oil when new. Silicon, maybe I need to check all air going to the engine is filtered properly? Maybe the low Si is nothing. The 0W does mean it can only be a synthetic of course. The 0W rating was one of the reasons for my choice as 20W is too thick at ambient temperatures. Also as a synthetic, it started "life" as a 40 "weight" oil and additives are added to give it its 0W rating. Conventional 20W50, for example, starts as 20 and additives are added to give it a 50 at 100c. The top end Will drop as the additives wear out. Fully syn will not suffer like a conventional. the cSt results confirm this as noted. The oil is API SN & API SJ rated. I have the datasheet somewhere that shows levels of the ZN/P. One test result is far from conclusive. Another sample at 4000? miles should give a greater feel for the oil. Additionally, if future wear is satisfactory, it will give weight to the fact that oil that is modern & far from a 20W50 oil does not result in damaged tappets and camshafts, lasts longer & keeps internals clean. IMHO Would be nice if others would test their oil. I think I paid £40 for two pre-paid sample bottles. 40 tanks of fuel would put 6000 miles on my engine and cost around £1200. 5 Litres of Mobil1 FS is £40. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, the oil is Mobil 1 FS 0W40. Here is the rear page: The Boron i believe is detergent, with plenty of life left. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, A long, long, time ago. I said I would post results of my engine oil. Here it is: Cheers, Iain.

Liverpool Skool boots?

Who is the guy in BlackFace? Strange. I have big feet & have driven the car with pikey boots without a problem. The accelerator on the Spitfire is well too right. Cheers, Iain.

Yep, no more than 4 mil max.

Hi Black Cat, nice one. Do you any more pictures to share? Is that the wire wound resistance wire in the bottom? I want to fit a door solenoid to mine & wish I could see what the two flaps do at the extremes. My control knob stays at demist setting for 99.8% of the time. No flow control valve and fan voltage is boosted to 15V. The fan now causes any dashcam to blur. Need to change it. Did you remove the heater with the transmission tunnel in place? Only four screws to remove? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, The maintenance-free battery is achieved by alloying different elements to the plates. The H2 O2 is never produced. As they say; recombined. The maintenance-free will still gas if overcharged. Different alloys in different price ranges dictate their intended use and "quality". Cheers, Iain.

.... If you only knew how much I have & continue to spend on my car..

Still is today, so I am told.

Hi, is popping the sound you get with an overly lean mixture? Excessively lean mixture fails to ignite & fresh air with unburnt fuel exits the exhaust valve. Over several cycles, the AFR in the exhaust is good for ignition? I know when I decrease the fuel pressure, my car pops too much on overrun. Gets attention for those that can't see the car. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Could the vent have been blocked and a pressure build-up caused the case to rupture?

Hi, A car battery: 6 lead-acid cells. You can adjust the physics of the -ve plate that’s parallel to the +ve plate by many means. Thin plates mean lower internal resistance for example. Other modifications may be present: Increase the surface area, reduce the clearance, modify the chemistry with trace elements. Elements that are “added” to the pure lead have a great influence on the characteristics of the cell. Different builds for different applications. FLT's, Trucks & cars for example. Non are any good at all applications for a good price. Dificult to tell what is best as adverts/brands & fancy stickers & colour of box seems to dictate price and not performance. I'm utilising a car battery that cost 100 quid and happy it was cheap. I wouldn’t put a period spec/technology battery in my car, for the same reason I don’t use 20W50 API SD/E. Overall, they are 12V batteries & any other voltage would not be suitable for the loads. With engine running the voltage should be between 13.8v to 14.2-7. Higher better on a maintenance-free battery. Last I looked at Li-Ion batteries they were all protected types & therefore their high current discharge voltages are poor? They are advertised as 12.8 volts. If they can hold close to this voltage under cranking they have a buyer! I couldn’t restart my car while in front of a railway line. Fuel pump cut out. Lol. I used the starter motor to drive out of the way. V LOL. Battery lifetime, not an issue. SM? I would not have faith in a battery of unknown pedigree and specs. The lead acid will not last forever. But good quality will last longer. Cheers, Iain

Hi, pictures & experience shown could have been life-changing. Fortunately not. I would have thought you would need hydrogen + oxygen in the correct range of combustion + ignition. I would think only possible on an overcharged battery? I do not think that correctly connected jump leads could cause such a problem if the final connection is at the "dead" battery. I have used a Leasure battery as the main car battery with no problems. Lower CCA, but much higher AHr rating with a few deep cycles possible. I switched to my present battery only because the specs are better and I don't plan on buying another this life. Cheers, Iain. PS. I will replace with Li Ion, when the price is not silly.

Hi, If you need to replace a faulty battery, why not. A bargain unless anybody knows cheaper one? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, 063 not in the chart, as length can be increased without a problem to 243mm's. I paid 90 quid for my hi-spec one. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, More AHr & CCA is better. The biggest volume batteries that fit in the space are: Battery Code Ampere – Hour CCA Length (MM) Width (MM) Height (MM) Weight (KG) Terminal 27 60 540 243 175 190 16 T1 027T 62 550 243 175 190 16 T1 75 60 550 243 175 175 16 T1 075T 60 590 243 175 175 16 T1 Different technologies/price will dictate how much higher your figures are. Mine are 64AHr 640CCA. Mine has been periodically checked for CCA, is always greater than spec. I guess AHr is also unchanged. I don't know why I do not recommend a 063 type. I looked at this many years ago. Do not buy from Halfords. LOL. Ensure you have more than 14.1 Volts on battery terminals when fast idle with minimal electrical loads. Do not pay extra for "extended" warranty. Don't abuse & try to claim warranty, they will know why it died. LOL And keep it off the concrete floor. Cheers, Iain.

You win.

A bit cranky Tony. Cheers, Iain

Have some cranks.

You have non-stick MP's. So why not?

She can't Tony. But might as well let her, as everybody would want a re-vote anyhow. Not a bad babe too by all accounts?

Was just reading about Teflon. The use in non-stick pans. Doesn't work for long. Or were the old pans better?

Hi, I would have thought the Slick50™ dropped the oil pressure when cold as it's viscosity would, of course, be less than 20W50 to prevent engine damage claims after use. I would love to know its grade, but guess 5W30? No need for the miracle ZDDP, as it's PTFE, aka Teflon™. It was also a miracle because of its ability to coat parts. LOL Sorry for the font change too many ™™™. Cheers, Iain Lion Tail.

Why not? Its the democratic thing to do. Ms Abbot can count the votes.