Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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when we played around with body off etc we made two simple wooden bars witha slot to fit over the door seal flange and this made sure the gap could not close up while fiddling
also under the tread strip added a sized hole and countersunk bolt to fix the decided position
still have the "gap " gauges will try to get a tape measure on it
just an idea
Pete
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and dont discount the seat belt /chassis bolts from restricting any movement
and we dont advise tying the rear tub to the lamp post and driving off ( seen that ,can be expensive ha )
the training notes are not for 50yr old wonky body on a 50 yr old wonky chassis
dont forget the two bolts into the diff Xmember in the boot
often the bolts into the boot tail riggers can shear off due to rust
Pete
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off course but i used a springalex wheel with a nice chrome horn push
no patina just shiny
Pete
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reminds me i took the 2 Horiba units we had when we closed the petrol emissions dept but nightmare to keep calibrated brit ox would not supply me with the span gas needed and they ended up Up the Tip happy days
Pete
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fuel dripping from the intake throat has to be fuel levels playing up, cant see thats anything connected to manifold or carb gaskets
can be upset by ragged idle lumpiness
the shake upsets the float needles
Pete
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every simple electronic points ive come across will flash the small test bulb as it triggers if you have no flash you could have
wiring logic incorrect
but if it fires and runs adjust the dizzy to give best running and
retard it a good bit from best , test drive & check for pinking
Pete
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yes did check the spread sht , but have to trawl through 150 entries , the TR guys are doing the admin i take a back seat Ha !
Pete
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make sure you make contact at shuttleworth
be sure to pre book we will be asking for money during July
Pete
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most small chassis spec for geometry asks fo 150lb on each seat , some later manuals give unladen specs,
with the car in whats known as static ride height ( ie loaded up) there is zero toe at the rear wheels
if the rears have toe in/out then you will get bunny hops on bumps etc
if you fit a lowering block or modify the suspension in any way you must reset/check the front and rear toe
its the worst error for ripping tread and unstable handling setting that will transform the car if set correctly
you dont need laser or 4 wheel kit to get within the triumph tolerances
Pete
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pleased that has worked ok
Pete
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just what part are you looking for "this" is not the best clue ??
should the post have a photo ??? included
Pete
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on swing axle if you want to change the rear wheel camber simplest is to fit a lowering block under the spring .
the tyres shown dont have any major scrub wear
but do show aging , side wear is low pressures , edge wear is tracking
camber in road use wont wear the tyre
Pete
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in general J types are robust and trouble free
the only snag i have found is the inner spool valve piston inside the guts of the solenoid 0 rings get stuck
the maraca's test shake the sol. it should hear the inner piston rattle .
easy to repair remove the small 10mm circlip in the solenoid knock out the inner piston/spool and clean refit with new 0 rings , re rattle the test and refit .
needs a 1"af thin wall spanner to loosen the solenoid, do not use grips on its case you can wreck it
apart from filter cleaning leave the rest of the unit alone
Pete
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use plywood ???
normal road use camber wont destroy tread only over many many miles /years , toe will rip it off as the tyre is slide sideways as you travel
Pete
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and have a play with simple tools
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looks a bit like under inflation and toe in excessive
Pete
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got one of those in the cupboard ....snap
with a variety of mag bases and various DTI
along with micrometers and verniers
not used so much theses days
Pete
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yes std part the only general options are if there is a ballast ign feed added bu you dont have to use it
Pete
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i have only managed around 10 amps , blink and you miss it
agree setting the end stop is a bit of a faf .
if the OD is seemingly a bit lazy make sure the hole down the needle is clear
remove the top cap dont loose the ball and spring , pull the needle ,make sure its tiny hole //bore is clear
Pete
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let us know how the endfloat turns out with the new hub
Pete
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yes got mine this monday morning
Pete
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the pull in coil takes around 10 amps , and is for a second or two ,as soon as the armature hits its switch which as you have seen is a ver short travel it switches the pull in coil to a 0.5amp holding coil
all in the bllnk of an eye
as its working why all the hype about current and whatever
drive the car and sleep easy seems a better plan
Pete
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this sounds like the common effect of the throwout bearing skidding on the diaphragm fingers
cause is usually stiff bearing, misalignment work withdrawl forks , lack of slave cyl spring loading etc,
if the chirping stops with a light finger on the pedal then , thats the canary
Pete
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Im sure most gaitors sold are a generic one size fits nothing, I have some ( girls on the electrical bench called them fanny stretchers)
used them for years open up tight grommets and gaitors
Pete
GT6 Auction
in General
Posted
that looks like a pending disaster
Pete