Pete Lewis
-
Posts
24,918 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
578
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Pete Lewis
-
-
could you fit a later 7 blade plastic (also a lot quieter) you need to have a good air flow under the bonnet to keep fueling happy
Pete
-
you do need to remove the spring to fit a spacer so need enough room to extricate the unit out the side of the car
many have done this an find the garage wall gets in the way ha !
if you remove all the studs and lift enough to drop a spacer in thats also possible
Pete
-
1
-
-
the only reason i see for having double the normal tappet gap is to stop the springs bottoming out
the Triumph spec is done on a cold engine if your cam manufacturer states "hot" then hot it should be
might be wrong but whats the point of having a higher lift if you have to reduce the valve opening by increasing the the tappet gap
seems just a must have you dont need the headache jobby that goes with it ????
Pete
-
thats fine you dont need an electric fan
why do you feel you need one ???
Pete
-
no rush it will reveal all thats needed as you progress
just get some good tea bags and biscuits in
Pete
-
canley classics and others they come in 1/2" 3/4" and 1" heres a couple of suppliers
Alloy Diff Spacers : Canley Classics
the deeper ones will probably need longer studs in the diff and then they fouls the tin cover i used a !" and made a rubber cover from a mud flap
cant advise which to use as we had a courier spring fitted ,buy 2 thin ones and play but that adds costs
Pete
-
1
-
-
spitting out the carb throat is more valve seat rather that cam timing
most WSM give good clues about checking the cam timing with the use of the rockers and tappet gaps
so no special tools needed
Pete
-
1
-
-
i used cheap thick truck mud flaps and a hole saw to make rubber pads
Pete
-
simplest way to change the rear camber is to add a spring lowering block on top of the diff
cheap and very effective
Pete
-
1
-
-
i have never needed sealer either on the Vit6 or the 2000 with alloy covers and club gasket they worked fine for Years
Pete
-
it always pays to surf around there are so many suppliers and often wild price variations
never jump in at the big boys as a first one stop shop
Pete
-
ive not looked a the specific specs of the various systems available the troubles of voltage may have been addressed
they used to have a operational range of 6 to 18volts and with a poor battery state on a cold day a ballasted coil can
drop below the 6v and give you problems hence why many add or bypass to give the unit full ignition 12v supply
if it works as a ballast thats fine
the idea to bypass came about due to owners having problems , its not just a conjured up myth
pete
-
finding out what goes where is a minefield of mixed ideas
to an engineering point of view you need a solid alloy mount for the two front baulkhead brackets and two for the diff x member all others are one rubber and as many shims as you need to get a old wonky body to line up on an old wonky chassis anything goes .
the idea of solid mounts on baulkhead and rear tub to diff x member is you need the two parts to not shift about
if on all rubbers they wont hold their position for long and door gaps will de adjust ............ makes sense ????
-
-
i had a full length CJ ramps and removable bridge their stuff is def brick shite house construction and will give years of good service
Pete
-
1
-
-
and good old triumph only had one speedo worm /pinion and changed the speedo TPM to suit the options
if you have a j type od then different pinions are available .
pete
-
just check the geometry specification data you used is unladen or as many are 150lb on each seat to set the static ride height
some gt6 spec is unladen but if not you need to get rent a crowed round or a bags of sand
especially important to get the rear toe correct to stop bunny hops on pot holes /rear wheel steering etc.
pleased you have some basic gear to check with
Pete
-
1
-
-
as you have amk3 there is a good chance you have temperature compensators on the side of each carb
small casing with plastic cover only held on with 2 screws ( top adjustable CDSE150 )
the small assy is also using two 0 rings to seal it to the carb body .
these over time become quite useless and i the small plunger inside is not fully seated will bypass air round the throttle plates and you will never set the idle mixture or speed properly the answer is to remove the plastic cover and screw the small nut to CLOSE the plunger for good, it is a emission device to weaken hot engines mixture.
if its open at normal temps . any adjustments you make will be wrong get the ruddy things closed
as for mixture best remove the air piston and adjust the small delrin washer on the needle head to be level
with the base of the piston thats the basic start setting point as used on production .
-
1
-
-
there was nothing special about herald units all std lucas p700 type
used on so many other marques of british manufacture
and to liven up the old glow worms get a relay kit and get full voltage at the front of the bonnet
saves the old switches and 14,5 volts is far more illuminating than the often 10.5 of voltage dropping
Pete
-
1
-
-
and to add you wont get a grease gun on the std nipple it needs removing and fit an extended one just to get the gun on
so you dont want a greaser its going to be useless
Pete
-
Chris ever helpful .......is that anywhere near Surrey Ha !!!
Pete
-
1
-
-
you would have to find a old new stock or SHand sealed beams went bust years ago in the 70s
most would fit a bulb H4 lamp dont try LED
its quite common the bulb units need a small alteration cutting a few mm on one of the location lug slots
Pete
-
one reason many uj are sold with a grub screw to blank the greaser hole
and mr haynes is probably talking prop shafts not drive shafts
there have been many a Tee shirt for fitting them back to front youre not alone
Pete
-
one with a 270 degree needle sweep you have to drill the manifold to collect manifold vacuum
the pipe often needs a squash to damp needle vibrations
you aim for around 18-21 in.hg (sorry im old school)
any vac gauge will work doesnt need to car derived
a 4" Brass one is probably out of place !!!!
Pete
-
1
-
Outriggers & rear extensions
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
quieter is down to the blade design
used on on my Vit6 when we had her , far better than the metal fan and lighter .
Pete