Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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the 2 main charge 1/2" 30amp lucars are joined/common so you can use either,
the smaller 5/16" one runs the warning light on the dash
if using orig harness you cant get it wrong
if orig was a dynamo then a replacement higher capacity main charge lead direct to the battery/solenoid
would be advised as alternators can supply more than double the charge of the old dynamo and regulator
Pete
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good idea but thread drift is a common factor on many posts
no worries you should get your clues where ever you post
Pete
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the striker plate on the B post is easily adjusted
set it to allow the door to aling glide over the striker
if you look at this there is very important little sliding sprung wedge
on the underside this stops the doors lifting and opening on corners
it should slide , needs a oil to keep it moving the springs fail and its not easy to repair very diy .
pete
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good to know the Jobs a good one
amazing what a bit of head scratching and perseverance pays dividends
including a donated unit amazing bit of team work
Pete
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so what you need is the dimension of the spring pan from the eye bolt
who has that then ???
Pete
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If raising the pin a few mm raises the idle a bit so he is a tad on the rich side of normal
that goes with the sooty plugs
turn the jet adjuster in /up a 1/2 turn if it improves the idle turn more to get the best running
do check the coil polarity neg to dizzy pos to ignition , wired back to front can work fine then give all sorts of
get out and kick it troubles
make sure the air filers are not blocking the breather holes on the front of the carbs
good luck
then there is a dreaded rubber slivers blocking float needle valves
pete
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upside down filters are a def No NO , as johny says the holes in the front face must be allowed to breath
as for flat acceleration what oil is in the dashpots must be 20/50 engine oil or straight 20 if you have any
the damped raising of the air piston is your enrichment device to give a rich mixture when you open the throttles
dont need to filled to the brim but must resist the raising of the air piston
pete
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Paula how are you ??? been quiet on here for toooooo long .......... hows Ulez ????
and its east to remember 15 to young 36 too old 24 just right
but that depends on your age and outlook .
just something a guy taught me all those years ago Ha
pete
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might be a part club shop may market talk to Julian in club shop
Pete
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yes certainly 6cyl brgs are often only 15mm thick not the 19 mm of the originals
but i dont know if that also happened on 4 cyl brgs. as ive not had to dabble /measure them
but your fix seems to confirm a thinner brg is around us .
geometry and actuation of clutches is often poorly engineered and less than accurate by design
triumph were not good at this , one reason many moderns have a concentric slave so everything remains in alignment
its not easy to do this and would be an expensive option
im sure there are ones on offer by specialists in taking your wallet
Pete
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yes
i would check behind the needle valve body there are no rubber slivers hiding behind it
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apso check the rocker cover and gasket if they leak air you upset the manifold /mixture on these semi sealed systems
pete
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do ford use a d washer??? just dont remember it was 1986 when had one ...not for long
pete
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this kit does not have the felt the bearings are sealed for life
why you need this is on my up grade must not have list
the standard design has only lasted 50 years whats not to like
as for torque the castle nut why dont they just use a nylock like ford and many others do
dont forget the stub as original had two pin holes i guess the uprated one does not !!!!!
its a nice upgrade with the headache that goes with it
Pete
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this is a vitesse with cd150 carbs with what i call the thmes barrier type choke so no excess fueling from any of that .... there is little to go wrong here
cold engine will run fine if set too rich a hot engine wont goes all wooly and ends up stalled .
you have found that leaning the adjuster upwards has already increased the idle rpm so you need to go a bit further
and keep adjusting the jet upwards and get to the best running condition you only need ears to tell where you are going
if its improving the rpm then ypu are on the right track ...just do a bit more
we can give tips on lifting pin tests but get the basics nearer right first
Pete
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sounds like the diaphragm has shifted probably the unit has been dropped at some time
check the torque straps around the outer are all straight , not kinked
but think its best to change the cover for another
Pete
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remove the air piston and try to measure the depth of the jet in its holder both should be the same
the std base setting is adjust to level the jet with the bridge and wind down 3 full turns as a base starting point
adjust to get the fastest idle in 1/4 turn increments do both carbs the same
to set the balance loosen the joining rod clamp turn idle screw to just touch its casting turn in 1.5 turns nip up the rod claps and both throttles are now set mechanically to the same point
Pete
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the age thing is all to do with unseen carcass fatigue failure and the fact the tread rubber has NO grip it becomes very hard and shiny
they may look fine but when pushed into the need for GRIP you will end up in the ditch or worse
being black and round is just not good enough
A long while back we had a local vitesse on 20 yr old tyres would spin the wheels at 40mph in top gear they did get changed and probably need doing again
even mine are heading for 7 years so budget is in place for a change soon
Pete
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spitfire std spring fitted lengths
wsm shows two springs 209685 @ 198 +- 2.29mm
210566 @ 188 +- 2.29mm
does not say what the two springs are from
does say when using HD springs both side have packer 125441 fitted under the top plate no idea why
im sure when club sold red springs they were quite uprated
on club shop they state springs are +20% and should be fitted to adjustable spring pan base shockers
Pete
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smoke from worn engine generally lift off/throttle back then open will generate a plume of blue
can be from worn valve guides or rings not a disaster
a continuous trail of blue is its very tired
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they have been a sealed bearing for many years
some grease on the front cover aids the slide of the carrier , but will attract dust and that can cause sticking later on
many advise dry assy more modern are often plated to help , not on triumphs of the era
a smear of clutch grease or anti seize on the input shaft splines but sparingly
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when installed the carrier is miles away from the gearbox using a 3mm split pin wont cause any problem
unless you got one from the Titanic or Queen Mary
do make sure you find the 3/8" hole its so important
Pete
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i will look up the fitted spring length so you can do a simple tape measure check
but the manuals out in the conservatory and its cold and dark just now Ha !
Pete
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do you happen to have a workshop manual have alook at Triumph Car Service manuals - Vitessesteve doesnt have specific 1500 spit but the base data for spitfire doesnt change much
for any toe/amber/castor/suspension geometry on pretty much all the small chassis cars
the data says you must set the car to its base static ride height and to do that DIY is add 150lbs to each seat
(or get rentacrowd in ) this sets the car in its average ride condition as on the road
some GT6 do have unladen figures
Pete
Faint pulsing noise.
in My NON-Triumph cars
Posted
Ha seems you have nailed this noise !!!
Pete