Pete Lewis

I got a set of 4 wheel pod s 5frt ramps and removeable centre bridge from these guys, seriously strong stuff. doesnt look like its avaiilable now but there.s a whole load of ramp idea's http://www.cjautosheywood.co.uk/ Pete

to get the old forum going when it last died in 2007 ? we had some curious banter about 'why men like women in leather ' and this turned into the posting anything about 'Red Leather ' this worked well but some of us gained a strange reputation as the Red Leather Gang = RLG Hmmm !!!! anyone got some idea's to kick of some banter topic ??? Pete ( orig RLG member)

bit rusty at trigonometry but I make 1deg = 5.5mm at a 13" rim so 2.75mm = 30minutes (0.5deg) what the triumph manual does not specify ( unless Ive missed it) is at what diameter is the 1.5/3mm taken because 3mm at the 13" rim is doubled at the tyre periphery , thats why angles are best as not affected by diameters Pete

when we got the Vit6 in 2003 the prop slide was absolutley awfull, slack , wobbly worn , pretty amazing as it doesnt move much, maybe thats the culprit for a while we glued it up with heavy setting silcone, but like yours soon reverted to a new replacement, we had vibration but this did not solve it, after chasing it around the car with bent engine back plates , clutch disc damper springs, a replacement ratio diff, the solution was the inner UJ cups having small amounts of float, new UJ with thicker Circlips solved a lot of head scratching.

John Im struggling with some of the intuative clues on here, back to a new learning curve but if you keep buttoning away some things start to make sense. if you click on your name at the top of the page you come to a profile screen , there's a black box to the right with edit my profile click this next page scroll down and click edit about me page here you can write about yourself click the menu on the left for display name or signature here you can change your displayed name and add some trivia about yourself , or the wife or whatever scroll down to click the save box or you loose it and have to start again hope thats of use ....and I stiil cant load photo's Ha ! Pete

I have one of those trackers, and fight to find the laser spot, , so I tend to revet to two straight edges and a tape measure I suppose its a good point about the loading issue, Ive always followed the workshop manuals, , looking at a late GT^ manual it shows unladen figures as well as static unladen 1.5 / 3mm toe IN static Loaded 0/1,5mm toe IN so would this help ?? if you unload a static setting the toe increases by 1.5mm you are wearing inboard so you have some toe out unladen ....Hmmmm recheck with a tape measure across the car and do the rear wheels as well stick a long straight edge against the rear tyres and sight the run down the sill , both sides should visualy look the same , just to make sure you have no rear steer going on Pete so add some toe and see how she handles , I cant see being a Herald or GT6 makes any real effect

Kevin any chance you can do a tutorial on the gallery, ive been wading around and cant see any way to load anything from my laptop . Pete

think there's a general thought that some addatives actually make things worse. especially a hole in the pocket , best leave well alone things may improve with time as many more modern cars are moving towards 97 to get the performance up and emmission down this could just be the plugs glowing , and the carbon is incidental to the short runs with some choke , needs a blast for some time to burn that off Pete

Most radials dont need toe , so 0 (parallel) is a good start, cross ply have toe to compensate the squeegee effect of the tread distortion of raod contact. if its shreading off the inside it will be toe out as that gives far more side slip than camber ever will. Pete

good stuff darren, I should have remembered some of your mods but senior moments and all that. trouble is its not easy to apply basics to a hybrid as the normals are not normal ha ! if you up the idle does she smooth out a bit ?? to keep producing carbon deposits that affect running so easily is rather concerning , low octane fuel wont help at all, any 97+ will be nearer the designed rate , some tesco even show as 100 , not used it . Pete

Wow a !!!! .....Just read your reply Please . never ever use spark plugs with an R in the suffix these are for more modern cars with a much higher HT than our machines produce you will be getting a very weak spark at the electrode. get them out fit some std and see what happens Pete

Hi Darren, yes never run on 95ron fuel made for side valves and motor mowers when these cars were tops. lmpy idle could be just the cam, or it possibly needs a faster idle speed to suit have you done a cam timing test its easy to fit the cam with the cam lobe tdc being off position and the cam timing error makes it lumpy. does the cam need special /larger tappet clearances ?? make sure no gasket of filter box is covering any of the carb face breathing ports maybe up the plug spec from eg NGK BP6ES to 7ES or Champ N9Y to 7Y check the float heights ?? just som thoughts Pete

I have no idea's about retro bedding in but can only suggest you go through the procedure and see if things Improve at all, let us all Know if they improve mgb535 is a pad with std friction material all new pads need bedding in the 1144 need more agressive std pads need lesser effort , but in all cases getting them hot conditions the surface never stop after a bedding session or the resin will bond on the disc hot surface, drive till they are cooled. you have to know if you have imperial or metric type 16p or 16pb calipers , the pads may fit but the pin holes are very different and will either be too small of a rattling poor fit. now if we had the old forum there was all the clues on their to show how you identify the differences Pete

Nostalgic pong's good place to smell hot brakes used to be at the bottom places like Porlock or Countisbury Hills Hot ferodo steam Loco's Castrol R the Elephant house Pete

HI Roger, not sure Im back !! decided to sell the trusty Vitesse 6 as needs change, often run with 4 seniors and the old seats up down in out , open shut was getting tiresome the fun was a bit of buttock assistance getting the girls in the back ( Hmm) so after many years of fun and having the 1600 on song she's gone and now have a Limo 4 doors two speed wipers and a boot with more wine capacity. so once shes all sorted a more refined flat cap and pipe image ((really) shes done 10miles in last 10 years , so much to shake down, like just replaced all the aged braking , the servo disintegrated heading for a bus on a roundabout so its still exciting at times . ye ha Pete

cant upload the actual form but to get the correct operating characteristics of these special pads you must follow a simple procedure on initial installation of new pads . make sure disc and pads are cleaned with some brake cleaner. 3 to 4 gentle stops from 30 mph to check all is working ok. repeated hard pressure stops from 70mph down to 30 mph do this 6 or 7 times do not stop , you must keep moving, then drive on to allow things to cool down , then you can stop. for M1155 or 1166 see below Bedding Procedure for M1144 / M1155 / M1166 1) Clean discs with brake cleaner 2) Following initial brake test start with 3 – 4 light applications from 30mph down to 0mph. After these, follow the steps below according to Material. M1144: 6 / 7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph M1155: 8 / 9 medium pressure applications 90mph down to 30mph M1166: 9 / 10 medium applications 90mph down to 30mph When carrying out the bedding process, do not allow the brakes to drag, do not left foot brake. To do so may result in damage to, or failure of the brake system. Leave the brakes to completely cool.

here's a useful Place to get a catalogue of lots of varied bits and pieces , makes a good browse http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/ the large catalogue is free and covers many wishes. wants and dreams . Pete

there are many studs available , even the 7/16" unf big saloon and TR which retain the UNF threads rather than go 12mm metric. they all fit the existing stud holes. some use rover /ford there a lot out there. on some you may need to grind a small flat on the head to clear the machined register on the back of the front hubs, generally you will have to remove the disc to fit the front studs . on rears they (if no too long ) can be retro fitted without removing the Hub flange , they just angle / fiddle in from the back on all use some stout washers and a wheel nut to pull the studs into the exiting holes. unless you have shoulder/spigoted wheel nuts the normal are any with a 60deg conical seat Pete