Pete Lewis

couple of thoughts , check the coil ( ballasted ) has a feed when your ign switch is cranking and when in running positions. as coil has two feeds if balasted make sure you have a 1.5 ohm coil if not ballasted its a 3 ohm coil. check polarity of coil , is dizzy on the correct coil terminal ??? check small braided lead that earthes the dizzy moving plate. check no green stuff in the coil header or cap connectors dont have plugs with an R suffix in the code if you have messed with the fuel lines it most likely there are floating slivers of rubber in the back of the float needle valve and its suply lines do your strombergs have a starting valve with a link pipe or 'thames barrier ' type of choke ???? make sure no gaskets are covering any of the front face ports in the carbs. it pretty unlikley a mech pump will over produe pressure it only relies on the internal diaphragm spring. with an open fuel line at idle it should produce a decent squirt and top up a 1/2 pint jug in 'about' 30 seconds idling. wet plugs , agree with a weak or no spark.

Robin , if i can remember to pack it along with all the stuff we need duxford I will endever to fit it in , and get some batteries , its a small unit but my brain capacity has been duxfuddled this month Pete My 2000 saloon has the low spec cam and Im thinking of fitting one of CW recomended ones when we add the power steering ,over the next few months Pete

you have checked the speedo but you need to also check the calibration of the rev counter. should have 3.55:1 on the dial but accuracy is dependant on its condition, the inards are same as the speedo its subject to many problems with cables , magnets and drive disks. a well set up std GT6 will cruise at 80 quiet happily with a good level of reserve for a blast up to 3 figures if you count the turn of prop , make sure both wheels turn together or you introduce a error the easiest way is put in to gear ,overdrive Off , push car one one accurate turn of the road wheels, ( mark the engine driven fan or crank pulley ,get someone to count the turns of the engine , then use Johns figures to reckon up what you have that way no jacking, lifting, or removing . plugs out may make the push easier. Pete

in the end of the day it matters not a jot , the only important bits are that the rotor points to no1 HT terminal on No1 tdc firing stroke and the firing oder is 153624 anticlockwise from where the No1 is rotor pointing. the other factor is it has to allow the dizzy body to fit and have some adjustment without fouling the vac capsule etc. as you have two skew gears you could reverse the plan and get the dizzy rotor where you want it to be with NO1 on FIRIING TDC ,align the offset dog to suit and drop it in , it will rotate on tooth helix so may take a couple of drops before you are happy. re time the ignition on completion. pETE

if you want to check its domed or not I have an endoscope which we can use down a plug hole to determine the piston type Pete

the main cause for overfilling the chambers is floating debris in the feed lines, especially if its been disturbed, slivers of rubber get cut from the inside of the fuel hose as you insert the bundy tubes these bob back and forth in the feed line, and generally lodge in the back of the float needle body, do you have the latest needles with a viton tip ?? set the floats to the height 3/16" but most are fixed, unless you washer under the valve face. is the engine stable at idle no hard misfire /shaking which can upset the floats ?? make sure the air filters and gaskets are not covering any of the carb. front face ports . when idling take off the fuel hose to the carbs and run fuel in a jar. for a few seconds ..you may see the culprit appear. but have a serious look at the back of the needle body inside the top cover. Pete

you need to check the PCD f the studs holes im sure mg are not same as triumph so the adaptors wont fit, having a few members with adaptors that refuse to unbolt due to worn nuts and hopeless access for any socket means they can seriously impede rear brake drum removal without a fight . all wheels distort, due to cornering loads but if you watched a video of how wheels distort on cornering and compare steel/alloy with a spoked , you wouldnt put them on your wheel barrow. if you want handling dont go there. !!! look nice thats about all you get with spokes Pete

have posted this all over the place but just in case !!!!! our pub meeting has changed from september 22nd to the 29th just for september, the pub has demolished the conservatory for a new bigger unit , and with another club booked the same night (bless em) the bar would be over run. so its moved to the last monday 29th

Ive dumped the 'drives you mad' window 8 I was stuck with and loaded Linux Mint, does just what it says on the tin , it actually works like a PC. many additional equipment need bit of a search to get them to operate but with help from Andy Mac. one of my trusty locals have got just about everything working, so goodby microsoft ..for good. I cant select a page number (yet) from any mouse click but if i select to print and select a page from there, but it loads and will scroll all pages pretty much instantly so maybe your box of buttons is having a bad hair day ...need a pc guru to explain all this stuff. Pete

dont forget club shop sell oil Pete

the actual spec is 0.002" to 0.008" end float at 0.008" you get about 3mm / 1/8" rock at the tyre , it feels a lot. the normal 1 to 2 flats backed off is really fine , there are two pin holes in the stub so smaller adjustments can be devised. always check the felt seal cup is inside the hub and the felt seal runs in the cup and the felt mates on the stub axle face. one thing is certain if you run with no lay you will soon seize the small outer bearing which will then seize to the stub axle all very expensive. you dont need to fill the cavity with grease this traps the heat transfer, just grease the bearing race. the float is need as the varying heat due to braking and others cause a lot of changes in the end float. and the float also contributes to brake pad return clearances Pete

go to chris witor and download the techy on heads it gives all you need about head numbers Heads http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/head_applications_chart.pdf Cams http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf but the engine number is the definitine on whats inside ME5????? HE need the missing digits Pete

the spec in haynes manual is as triumph specifiy the 40-60 at 2000rpm is the std across the triumph range for 4 and 6 cyl engines yours sounds fine, oil does make a vast difference, I used a lo cost 20/50 from a factors and it lost pressure at modest temperatures using stuff like millers pistoneze or valvoline vr1 with good z's might be twice the price but there is no drop off in pressure with arduous use . Pete

for some good photo of what to do have a browse at.. never mind the TR spec the principles are all the same be it SU or Stromb's. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm there are many rebuild documents as Darren says look at the Burlen site , Ive used the Carb exchange small and less overheads, and its local to me. most carb stuff is now getting expensive

no clips on these , took abit of finding ,and they had 21w bulbs not the dreaded festoon's used as they matched some indent in the paint from having some fitted in its previous life. Pete

if this works its time to do the lottery Ha !

as a thought if you use hose all the way round it wont conduct heat like bundy tube did this on the Vit6 although never had any hot running troubles ever. ever thought of running the fuel line under the sump in cool air ?? Pete

all the down to earth techy specs for pretty much the whole car range is included in the downloads below the main forum topics the first 40 pages are where techy topics are to be found in your courier magazine, from page 40 onwards is all your tyre pressures and specs timing, tappets spark plugs all in model order filled with all the day to day fodder you need on the past web site it was separated but the only file to load is as you see down below in the download section some will be able to search page numbers some will have to print preveiw to get at a 'particular' page but its the basic specs. you need go on ....have a browse Pete

my manual shows it Boss uppermost. and to keep it moving I drilled and fitted a greaser to the through bolt pete

I put some flush mounts on the boot lid recess. not these but similar more aged design Pete

unless there is some fuel tank height/float level pump efficiency affecting the running , but thats a long shot. Pete

have aread of J tpes on Buckeye Triumphs excellent how to http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm Pete

cant remember ever trying to remove the ndv without the door glass out first the vent is held with 3 bolts in the carcass and a screw at the front . I doubt there is enough room to lift and rotate the vent /channel to get the lower brkt out thro the glass gap . the workshop manual is a good as a chocolate tea pot on this subject, mine dont cover the vent removal at all be prpared for needing some replacement glass seal trim clips , as some will get hooked off, need to make up a flat strip tool made to grip the clips and enoght handle to allow you to lift them in place tip,,always tie a long cotton on these swines as they fly off and disapear and six pairs of hands to pull cilp up, tap seal down ,all at the same time with any glass seal always make sketch of which way round things are some glass channel felts need to be reassembled/riveted to the original mountings and no matter how hard you try they end up back to front ( got that tee shirt ) if you dont have a manual... add to wish list ...or download from Steves site http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm Pete

7/16unf bolt is 38/40lbft the 2 welded in drop pins for the front rubbers 3/8"unf is 26/28lbft the 4 special bolts (wedge lok ) carrier to axle case 26lbft ( these have a tapered shank and internal star washers due to hole in brkt is 7/16 for a 3/8 threaded bolt, so shank is tapered ) Pete