Paul H
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Posts posted by Paul H
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Hi travelled up to the Wirral today from Suffolk 230 miles in my Mk2 Vitesse. Longest straight run for a while. Everything went fine unless I went over 3300 revs then the engine misfires . Doesn’t happen every time but more often than not . Bring the revs down and the engine behaves . Same issue happened on the return from Duxford last Sunday . With overdrive the speedo is wavering 55 to 60 at 3000 revs . The issue could be fuel but all filters are clear and running a Huco electric pump . This leaves electrics with Accuspark electronics and near new Delco distributor , NGKs . I’ve got a good selection of spares to work through and could it even need to retard the ignition a tad . Where should I start ?
If your planning a trip make sure you know the stations which sell E5 Premium enroute as finding E5 was difficult . Good job I had a can in the boot .
Next Sunday 26th going to Walled Towns rally in North Wales . Any other takers ?
Paul
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1 minute ago, Paul Amey said:
For the record, the old starter motor is made by Lucas. I have just given it a good examination (Hammer included) there is no spacer stuck on it. Thanks Pete, I will have a look on ebay. Steve P, I have an idea how you found out lol.
How about a pic of the old starter ?
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Paul
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The spacer should be at least 5 - 8 mm . This is a guesstimate
The shim being approx 2mm
Paul
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The spacer should have been with your original Bendix starter
Paul
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49 minutes ago, Paul Amey said:
I was told I didn't need it.
I’ve fitted the same to my Mk2 Vitesse and needed the spacer BUT not the shim .
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1 minute ago, Paul H said:
No it’s 4kw Villager Puffin smallest in the range . Because the flue pipes are exposed ( twin lined ) there’s a lot of heat transfer . This will be the same setup in the garage .
Sorry just got your joke 😱
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1 minute ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Jumping Jehoobies!! That's one big wood burner.
Mark the hole out where you want it, and go round the edge with a masonry drill. It'll take a lot of small drill holes but eventually like one of the old tax discs you'll be able to tear along the perforations.
No it’s 4kw Villager Puffin smallest in the range . Because the flue pipes are exposed ( twin lined ) there’s a lot of heat transfer . This will be the same setup in the garage .
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Thread Drift Alert !
An experiment today . We have a wood burner in the conservatory which is the same size as the garage . In one hr raised the temp by 8 degrees . I have a spare wood burner and trunking as well , needs refurbishing . Looks like this might work . The trunking cant go through the roof so how to cut 6ins diameter hole in the concrete panel ?
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9 minutes ago, martyn wright said:
Hi All! Approx 1 year ago I fitted around 1 metre of then new Fuel Rubber Pipe SJ30 R6! and due to the Restoration have never had the car running, Do I now need to now change to SJ30 R9 due to the E10 fuel? Your help on this matter is appreciated Martyn
If you purchased your R6 from EBay it’s highly likely it’s fake and will melt from the inside . I’ve got this TShirt . Suggest upgrading regardless to Gates Barricade which is available from the Club Shop and Moss . I don’t think you should be using E10 anyway and E5 premium is the forward . Where available I use Tesco E5 Momentum 99
Paul
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2 hours ago, clive said:
But burning gas will produce moisture, which is not desirable. Wood burner could work well, usually draws cold air from the room(garage) and if well designed won't let soot/smoke into the area. But they are a lot of faff. I just use 2x2kw heaters, approx 70p per hour, or a fiver for a day. But nice and easy.
How do you now get the car in?
It’s a land locked garage which is in the back garden . Plan is to spray all the removable body parts in there .
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2 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
Paul - Also consider your garage door. Mine is steel and very cold in the winter. I keep meaning to get some 2" insulation sheet to cover the inside. I insulated the roof void some time ago. Much cooler in the summer and warmer in winter but that door needs attention!!!
Don't just measure the air temp. You need one of those laser thermometer thingies to measure the temperature of the actual metal that you are going to spray.
I have removed the garage door and filled in with a single door and window . The walls are concrete panels which has been battened and covered with plywood , same with the roof
Paul
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How about a bit of thread drift ?
The summer is for enjoying your Triumph . The Autumn and Winter for fixing / improving . In my case getting down to bodywork and spraying . BUT temp had to be 17c to spray . I have a dedicated single garage which will need heating . The garage has little insulation . I see my options as either a Propane Spacer Blower or perhaps a Wood Burner . Any ideas ?
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How often should we change Dot4
Paul
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Planning to change the Clutch and Brake Fluid , it’s 4 years old and the cheap tester reads 3 to 4 %
The only issue is the new unopened bottle says the same 😱 or worse
What to do ???
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Replacing the blower with a Nissan Micra blower will increase the volume of air by at least 50%
Paul
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31 minutes ago, chrishawley said:
Any progress?
Hi Chris , not yet life keeps getting in the way 🤔might get a chance next week
Paul
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There’s nothing to stop you adding heated seats, an easy fix
Paul
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29 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
im sure my 64 were solid wood capping's even had body numbers chalked inside
pete
Here’s the body numbers on mine
Paul
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This is the type I use
Paul
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34 minutes ago, Don R said:
Thanks Pete, that is a relief- imagining all sorts of things but the diaphragm fingers on bearing fits all symptoms. I’ll dig out the make of clutch. All the actuating bits have been apart and cleaned/disturbed and with the new bits i guess it’ll take a while to settle down. A light spring sounds the most accessible fix, I’ll start there…
Hi Don , I had a singing canary, same situation as you , tried springs which worked for a while then the birds returned . Got used to it in the end . Turned out to be the dimple stopping the RELEASE BEARING CARRIER from spinning had been flattened by the previous owner . Sorted by drilling and adding a split pin to the carrier to stop the spinning . Discovered with a recent gearbox overhaul and clutch change with Pete in control . Vitesse mk1 gearbox
Paul
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Out of interest paid 1.41 per litre for E5 Momentum 99 yesterday at local Tesco
Paul
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Just now, Badwolf said:
I have been in touch with an associate of mine who is a specialist in classic car restoration. He feels that it is highly unlikely that the problem has been cause by the upol panel wipe. More likely to be contamination from the surroundings including the cloths used or even transferring naturals oils from the skin if not wearing gloves. He also confirms the need for a combined oil/water separator on the compressor. Hope that this helps a little.
I have oil water separators on both the compressor outlet and on the gun . This leaves general lack of cleanliness which is likely . I’ll still do the test with and without panel wipe to be sure . Before the panel wipe I was using brake cleaner spray
Paul
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3 hours ago, chrishawley said:
I was just wondering whether you've made any progress on the paint issue. Painting sounds sooo simple when one reads the 'how to do it books' but the reality is different and most is learnt through experience.
Looking at your photos I get the impression less of fisheyes (silicones) and more of generalised reaction of the colour coat. Now I can't back this up with firm experience but it's within the bounds of possibility that UPol's panel wipe is formulated on the assumption of using a 2-pack paint system and not compatible with cellulose. I suppose the only way to prove that is to spray out a test piece and do a half and half comparison of panel wipe v no panel wipe.
Cellulose is a lot harder to use than 2-pack, although cheaper. One aspect is that cellulose uses a large percentage of very solvent thinners whereas 2-pack has a small percentage of (relatively) non-solvent thinners. Cellulose thus has more propensity to 'wake up' incompatibilities in any previous coats under the most recently applied primer. If the area has not been bare metaled there's always a possibility that either one pack acrylic or (worse) synthetic has been applied at some time in the past which then reacts with any fresh application.
Hope you make good progress on this. I'd be interested to know the final diagnosis.
Thanks Chris , followed your analysis with interest . My gut feeling is that the Upol panel wipe is not compatible with Cellulose and simple test will sort that out . I’ll keep u posted as to the results
Paul
Electrical or Fuel issue
in Electrical System
Posted
Hi John got both . With the spark rite I assume I test at 3000 plus . The strobe is a basic version
Paul