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Paul H

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Posts posted by Paul H

  1. Thanks all , I’ll support and lift the engine for starters . I’m on my own but can get help with the final wiggle out . The passenger seat is out plus the passenger door and removed the sports steering wheel . The od box is currently sitting on top of the rear bracket so lifting the engine should give the clearance I need . Now I know it’s 50kgs I know what to expect . The od solenoid is still in place so need to lift enough to remove the lower screw and remove before the manhandling begins

    Paul 

    71536AC7-2B3A-4301-AFD5-9D8E5BDE4C05.thumb.jpeg.177d63c47c3eb0143486e49cc72245c4.jpeg

  2. Attempting to remove gearbox and overdrive from my Vitesse . All bolts , ancillaries removed from the gearbox and OD and the manual says lift and remove from inside . This was for gearbox , needless to say I can only lift an inch or so and can’t clear the prop shaft . I then read to remove overdrive and gearbox take out the whole engine . Is this correct ? If I remove the prop shaft completely will the whole unit come out inside the cabin ? 
    Paul 

  3. 14 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

    Even so, I still have concerns about water being trapped in the very small channels and cavities even if heated and blown through. As you can see from the photos there are an awful lot of these, some being very small and tight. Maybe further experimentation is need before I go much farther. Thanks for the advice. Any other ideas are always welcome. By the way, when this is all made up, I do intend to flood the channels with dinitrol cavity wax, hopefully not trapping any water.

    Checkout Bilthamber Ferrosol

    https://www.bilthamber.com/car-cleaning-and-degreasing/ferrosol

    Paul

     

  4. 18 minutes ago, Peaks said:

    Another obvious question; is the motor wired up correctly? If the positive and negative are swapped round then although the motor is running backwards it will still push out air, just at a greatly reduced volume. 

    As others have said, it's well worth getting the matrix cleaned internally. Back flushing mine didn't make much difference so I paid a trusted radiator specialist to open the matrix up and rod through the tubes. I've got photos somewhere and I'll post them if I remember. 

    I say trust radiator specialist as I have used one place (Arrow Radiators, I think they might be a franchise) and they were an expensive waste of time. The place I finally used has been in business for years and do heat exchangers for everything from diggers to air conditioning plants. They are called Ken Allen Radiators, and are located in Plymouth if you are in that area. 

    As you've discovered, the heater valves also clag up and the only way I could cure that 100% was by fitting new valve; stripping and cleaning wasnt enough due to internal corrosion.

    The result of all that though is a heater which is at least sufficient for a saloon or a convertible with the hood up. 

    I purchased a new heater matrix for my Vitesse , worth considering , about £80 4 years ago 

    Paul 

    checked and still the same price 

    http://www.demisterman.co.uk/Triumph/Triumph Herald heater matrix.php

  5. 13 minutes ago, PeteH said:

    I am surprised it is a Taper thread?. The one shown in the picture, looks to me remarkaby like a Pipe Fitting?. Makes me wonder if the P/O has "lost" the original and made a substitution?.

    Pete

    Mine was a taper thread and the same as the gearbox level plug 

    Paul 

  6. Removing the gearbox in my Mk2 Vitesse . The drain plug had been tightened up by a gorilla . Eventually removed using 12mm long socket hammered on and an 18in bar . On investigation the plug had flats on the thread and a 5/8AF spanner fitted 😱

    What’s the spec of the drain plug I need to replace with ?

    D61B1703-72CC-4FA7-BB22-06E441C8027B.thumb.jpeg.bc94c10d032a5d1dc0099cbf0a108597.jpeg
    Paul

  7. 12 minutes ago, Adrian said:

    Considering its a complete rebuild kit then it should be included, they charge enough.

    Onto the Jet, how tight are they? My vice doens't open far enough to do the 'socket' pressing, do they need some heat to expand the alloy (I'd have thought any heat would preferentially expand the brass!). Would it be best to take it to the garage?

    Cheers

    Adrian

    I used an old jet with a small hammer to remove and set the new jets . The jet is tight as you would expect but you soon get to know how much hammer pressure is required 

    Paul

  8. 29 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Sadly, Steve, that's the price! Paddocks are £61, add VAT and it's the same as Rimmers. Unless an old set comes up - and even then the rubber may be perished - they're probably all from the same supplier so all around the same money.

    Have u checked Canleys 

    Paul 

  9. 6 minutes ago, johny said:

    yes I believe the later carbs just have the choke mechanism on one and a feed pipe to other - that looks like the black tube in the 2nd pic but I cant see what it connects to in the last photo.

    Also as one threaded end does the linkage and whats its other threaded end for then?

    My CDSE ‘s have 1 choke with linkage 

    ABF13A03-0A5A-4CC3-97AA-E2769199FBB4.thumb.jpeg.d0ea53075e3d84d60f948b6b6b0bee1c.jpeg

     

    Paul 

  10. 2 hours ago, 68vitesse said:

    Been looking at going down the electric fuel pump route using a Huco 133010, car Mk1 2L Vitesse carbs and engine standard, with an inertia cut out, any feed back on quality of current repro mechanical ones appreciated.

    Feel sure I have correct pump somewhere but it is doing an excellent job of hiding.

    Regards

    Paul

    He’s my repro , which didn’t work effectively so removed and went Huco

    073A1FBA-6D0F-456C-9065-E46EBA85E5B2.thumb.jpeg.bf5844f317853e8f042032db45880dfb.jpeg

    Paul

  11. 16 minutes ago, Iain T said:

    Get a Huco low pressure electric pump! Primes the carbs nicely. 

    Iain 

    Agree Huco all the way . Bought a new spare last week for £25 deld from the Bay 

    Paul 

  12. 10 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    i wonder if you could grind a section out of a socket to get access and have enough hex left to turn a little at a time ???

    it is a wonderful design ...Hmmm !!

    have you tried some mintex 1144 before you indulge with a servo idea , I upped the 12s on my Vit6 to type 16s  as stopping wasnt in its mojo

    and never anything with green in it..........  complete cardboard 

    Pete

    Just moved onto Mintex 1144 on my Vitesse . What a difference they make . The old pads were cheapies and now consigned to the bin . The Mintex are comparatively expensive but worth every penny 

    Paul 

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