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Posts posted by Paul H
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19 hours ago, daverclasper said:
Hi Paul. Just a thought, though you probably have it inhand. My layshaft was a bit shot, and had also mullered the corresponding internal laygear bearing surface (unless it had been rebuilt at sometime, with dodgy laygear and mullered a new layshaft?).
Mike Papworth managed to re sleeve the laygear, (which I guess is better, as the pinions have worn with the other pinions) though he did have spares at the time, about 7 years ago.
Dave
Hi Dave , the layshaft only showed very minor wear and could have been reused but could have made the box a little noisy so I ordered a new one
Paul
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Just now, Bobtaylor said:
Hi Paul, I did visit you last year when I was driving my pale blue 1600, to ask about seat replacement, at least I think it was you !!!!
Yes Bob it was me , all at a safe distance then
Paul
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Interesting post on FB of a guy with his mk1 GT6 testing the level of cabin noise . Pretty sure this is the app he used . Registered 100db while iphone was on passenger seat
Looking forward to see what my Vitesse Saloon registers . Appreciate this will be guide and comparative use only and the following link has no in app purchased but note you are downloading at your risk . Currrently in the garden and blackbird is hitting 12 db !!
https://apps.apple.com/gb/app/decibel-meter-sound-meter/id1373636871
Paul -
19 minutes ago, clive said:
£20 for 5l?
I pay £3/l for antifreeze concentrate, and use a litre or so in my cars.
But agree, a fair price if the 4life is your thing.
Hi Clive , I noticed the 10yr life . Is anybody using 4life
Paul
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Gearbox now stripped and ready for refurb
Shopping list for Canleys- Oil seal in Bellhousing
- Copper washer for bottom bolt in bellhousing ( missing when refurbed )
- Gaskets
- Layshaft
- 3 Synchro rings ( small ) gearbox is mk1
- Anti rattle rear clip D Type O/Drive (missing)
There was an oil leak from the speedo drive , initially thought the oil seal plug had failed but the “plug” was jammed in the thread , removed , cleaned and retightened
Peter observed that the Clutch Release Bearing Carrier had the Dimple flattened so would keep spinning and this could be the reason why the Singing Canary is still evident . Looking forward to this noise disappearing . Apparently the carrier needs drilling with a split pin inserted to stop the spinning
When the recon was done after a week couldn’t get 4th gear , they repaired and couldn’t get an explanation other than it wouldn’t happen again . Pete found out why, the bolt holding the gear leaver to the main shaft was the wrong way round and the nut had been happily chewing away at the alloy housing !
I have always viewed Gearboxes as a Black Art never to be touched or tackled , now after watching Pete stripping the box and explaining what happens I now have a better understanding and to make a list of what’s required is a milestone for meThis is a great forum 😄
Looking forward to my return trip to Sunny Luton
nb I found this YouTube video helpful in understanding how gearboxes work and in particular Synchro rings which have been the cause of my issues
Paul
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The main shaft is free together with the main bearing so ready to dismantle . Then make a list of bits required for the rebuild . Disappointed that despite an expensive rebuild 4K miles ago this work is required . On the positive side I’m learning the black art of how to understand how to understand how the gearbox works and how to repair . Will keep you advised of my shopping list . Thanks again Pete
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3 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
All this time off with lockdowns and furloughs and they close for holidays!!! When they get back will they all have to be quarantined as well.
According to their Facebook page they are camping in their Atlas classic in Cornwall
Paul
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Bearing in mind I’m self taught . I approached the same issue and I have a ignition fed 10 way bayonet fused box and a second 10 way bayonet fused box , perhaps way over the top but I can allocate each circuit and when the fuse light goes on it means there’s a problem with the circuit . The second pic shows a close up of a 4 way box just to show what it looks like . The red light comes on when you have an issue . Don’t ask me how that works but it does . My brake light switch Disintegrated and I only found out when I saw the fuse light . I can revert the system back to standard if deemed necessary in the future
The nut is the input feed and there are 2 tabs at each end for output feed
I can send you the fuse box layouts if you need them
Paul
I used the opportunity to add relays to main, spots, dip. Horn, fan
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1 minute ago, Paul H said:
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/348
it’s a dry non tacky tape , brilliant stuff . Just fix the start and end with normal tape . I go 50% overlap
Paul
I added the same connector in the boot
Paul
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https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/348
it’s a dry non tacky tape , brilliant stuff . Just fix the start and end with normal tape . I go 50% overlap
Paul
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
why do you want ot remove it for when you do get it free its a heave ho and get it into your boot
but is it all out yet ???
Pete
The od is jammed on top of the rear bracket as it’s started to separate at the bell housing / engine . Raising the engine has given some height BUT not enough to give clearance . Jack is trying to raise the whole car now so need to loosen the front mountings
Paul
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13 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Don't forget to protect the floors and sills when dragging it out inside the car - it's a heavy item and will eat paint or doortrims / seals. Taking the preferred door off completely might be an option beforehand.
Passenger door is off and passenger seat out already . Jacked up od enough to remove solenoid though plunger is visible , can this be removed ?
Paul
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Gone are the days when I used to buy a Moggie Minor and deliver to to tip when it’s shelf life was up . On delivery a swarm of enthusiasts would strip it for its useful parts .
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Thanks all , I’ll support and lift the engine for starters . I’m on my own but can get help with the final wiggle out . The passenger seat is out plus the passenger door and removed the sports steering wheel . The od box is currently sitting on top of the rear bracket so lifting the engine should give the clearance I need . Now I know it’s 50kgs I know what to expect . The od solenoid is still in place so need to lift enough to remove the lower screw and remove before the manhandling begins
Paul
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Attempting to remove gearbox and overdrive from my Vitesse . All bolts , ancillaries removed from the gearbox and OD and the manual says lift and remove from inside . This was for gearbox , needless to say I can only lift an inch or so and can’t clear the prop shaft . I then read to remove overdrive and gearbox take out the whole engine . Is this correct ? If I remove the prop shaft completely will the whole unit come out inside the cabin ?
Paul -
14 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
Even so, I still have concerns about water being trapped in the very small channels and cavities even if heated and blown through. As you can see from the photos there are an awful lot of these, some being very small and tight. Maybe further experimentation is need before I go much farther. Thanks for the advice. Any other ideas are always welcome. By the way, when this is all made up, I do intend to flood the channels with dinitrol cavity wax, hopefully not trapping any water.
Checkout Bilthamber Ferrosol
https://www.bilthamber.com/car-cleaning-and-degreasing/ferrosol
Paul
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18 minutes ago, Peaks said:
Another obvious question; is the motor wired up correctly? If the positive and negative are swapped round then although the motor is running backwards it will still push out air, just at a greatly reduced volume.
As others have said, it's well worth getting the matrix cleaned internally. Back flushing mine didn't make much difference so I paid a trusted radiator specialist to open the matrix up and rod through the tubes. I've got photos somewhere and I'll post them if I remember.
I say trust radiator specialist as I have used one place (Arrow Radiators, I think they might be a franchise) and they were an expensive waste of time. The place I finally used has been in business for years and do heat exchangers for everything from diggers to air conditioning plants. They are called Ken Allen Radiators, and are located in Plymouth if you are in that area.
As you've discovered, the heater valves also clag up and the only way I could cure that 100% was by fitting new valve; stripping and cleaning wasnt enough due to internal corrosion.
The result of all that though is a heater which is at least sufficient for a saloon or a convertible with the hood up.
I purchased a new heater matrix for my Vitesse , worth considering , about £80 4 years ago
Paul
checked and still the same price
http://www.demisterman.co.uk/Triumph/Triumph Herald heater matrix.php
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I fitted a Nisan Micra fan to my Smiths box on my Vitesse to great effect , very noticeable improvement . The box does need slight modification to fit .
Paul
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Dr Doolin . TR6 Frame issues
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Very informative video
https://youtu.be/Ln7LhhYZrgg
Paul