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Paul H

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Posts posted by Paul H

  1. 1 hour ago, Patrick Taylor said:

    Thanks for all the advice: are we saying DX 73 is the seal to get? I like Pete's bodge -and my wallet likes it even more!- but the challenge of cutting it neatly may outweigh the savings. I take it that 8 metres does the two front doors; or is a boot seal included in that length? The Bond GT4S has a smaller boot aperture, but two opening rear quarterlights, which I will need to measure.

    I did try the bodge, which helps but buying DX73 is a better fit and less slam 

    Paul 

  2. Just now, Paul H said:
    Product Quantity Price
    Subtotal: £28.61
    Shipping: £6.00 (incl. VAT) via Table Rate
    Orders under 2kg
    Payment method: Credit Card
    Total: £34.61 (includes £5.77 20% VAT)
    DX 73 - Composite self grip type draught excluder 8 £28.61


    8 metres for saloons 

    Paul 

     

     

    Sorry , seller was Coh Baines 

     

  3. 4 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    I've just cut the last inch off the trim that Bill Davies sold me; I hope it was the right thing to do as it seemed very difficult to cut, nowhere near as neat as the ends that it had, and I sincerely hope it wasn't cut exactly to length... 😮

    This is the correct profile for the Herald and I'll bring the off-cut with me to look for it at Malvern. Anyone know off-hand the length required for Herald saloon door apertures?

    IMG_0072.jpg.af11d743f1355b4e59e9af9e9d8660df.jpg

     

     

    Product Quantity Price
    Subtotal: £28.61
    Shipping: £6.00 (incl. VAT) via Table Rate
    Orders under 2kg
    Payment method: Credit Card
    Total: £34.61 (includes £5.77 20% VAT)
    DX 73 - Composite self grip type draught excluder 8 £28.61


    8 metres for saloons 

    Paul 

     

     

  4. It’s important to find a garage that understands our classics . I MOT mine at Cracknells in Thurston nr Bury St Edmunds . The mechanic gives me a verbal  commentary and advice. Perhaps we need a list . My next door neighbour had a TR4 went to a local garage and they wrote a MOT without inspection 🤕. This was 5 years ago . 
    Paul 

  5. I use the Club Shop and Canleys . For front pads it’s best to buy Mintex 1144.  These are much more expensive than the standard pads but worth every penny and these pads will stop your car 

    Paul

     

  6. 12 hours ago, A TR7 16V said:

    Heres the door gaps from side on - no refs to Bremner's "N-N-Nineteen Not Out" please.

    IMG_20210719_192444.thumb.jpg.f7af8d289562441a9cc67e8eaec8b8e2.jpg

    I think, if I bothered, I could get the door up a little more at the fore, to make the gaps a little more constant. But, that would need me to be bothered.

    And here the door sticking out at the bottom. 

    IMG_20210719_192501.thumb.jpg.b2730b1cedb9a1323df6cad10dbcfc43.jpg

    This bothers me more than the gaps tapering.

    This is the gap by the quarterlight.

    IMG_20210719_192511.thumb.jpg.bd4ae4ca71b8d329d14a8eff89771130.jpg 

    I'm not sure what I'm looking for, so it may not show it.

    And here's the gap at the back of the drivers door. I can't get back far enough to do better without turning the car around:

    IMG_20210719_192541.thumb.jpg.89c3221794d140f5acc42d497e62e5ec.jpg

    The fit between the back of the door window and the seal on the hood is made right by packing between the frame and where the hood goes round. It's thin at the top of the wing, but about 3/4" thick as it starts the curve round to horizontal. It's just made of poly foam, and long M2 bolts with extra nuts as standoffs holding the seal runners. I'm a bit surprised the foam is holding up three years after I did the hood. But it is.

    I know I didn't get the hood pulled down enough at the tops of the B posts, but I found doing the pop rivets there a real difficult bit. So, after a bit, I just went that'll effing do, and went in for tea. I have considered re-doing them, but I have a solution to stop it leaking, so I haven't felt the need.

    I shall go next and take measurements between the B post tops. 

    The V ie larger gap at the top could be excess packing between the chassis and the tub . My Vitesse was an inverted V and improved the gap by adding shims .

    Paul 

  7. In the early 70’s I acquired a pair of large unused enamel circular AA road signs . In and out of Perranaworthal (just outside Truro ) 1 had distances to Lands End and the other to London . The securing holes were still filled with enamel . I was broke so sold them . I always wonder what they would be worth now 

    Paul 

  8. On a standard Vitesse 

    dipped = outer 

    main = outer and inner 

    I modified mine 

    dipped = outer and inner . With a remote blade fuse which is removed for mots as it’s illegal to have 4 dipped  lights 

    I have 2 relays which are situated by the dynamo , dipped and main 

    Paul

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  9. A trip to sunny Luton yesterday the box and overdrive were rebuilt , thanks Pete . The refit now starts , called in to a local nut and bolt company asking for a solution to the Overdrive Solenoid . One of the fixings , a 2ba screw is nigh on impossible to remove without taking out the gearbox and overdrive . The right hand chassis rail is the obstruction . The solution is a 4ins 2ba cheese head screw which will need trimming . In future the solenoid can be removed without taking out the box . In due course will advise final measurements for those interested 

    19B094EB-D764-41FC-9BEF-6247127F9A56.thumb.jpeg.c0ba9c8e8be581b24f93729cb8c9b870.jpeg

    Paul

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