Paul H
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Posts posted by Paul H
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Tidied up the oversized M8 bolt . I recovered the rivet . Drilled out the rivet so it acts as a bush and would take a M5 bolt .
Paul
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19 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
lve got some !!1
have also repaired one often the small roller seizes and the hook wears a groove in it
cant remember what i used but smaller than your M8 hex head
check the small roller has not worn the back of the hook or the over centre wont latch and it will always pop open
Pete
Thanks Pete . The small roller is fine now , Initially it was seized
Paul
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Just now, JohnD said:
Paul,
A bush and a smaller bolt would allow a less hefty looking fastener, more like the OE, and less worry of wear on the treads if it has a short shank or is a set screw.
Just thinking!
John
Agreed , this is a short term fix as haven’t got a suitable replacement
Paul
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Removed the rivet and it’s 8mm diameter so needed a M8 to replace . Locking mechanism works now as added a washer in the spring set up to ensure the “back of the hook “ didn’t jamb the roller .
Paul
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1 hour ago, poppyman said:
I think "nut and bolt" would be easiest Paul, a pal with a GT6 did that and its been ok.
Tony.
Thanks Tony , just drilled one out and nut and bolt will do the job . This one has been smacked at some time and is bent so trying to straighten first
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Bonnet clamp on my Vitesse keeps sticking . The “Claw” is bent and has too much lateral movement so it jambs on the roller edge . Need to remove rivet to investigate
Paul
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19 minutes ago, Gadgetman said:
So.... plugs all look good, nice light biscuit colour, 25 thou gap, Oil changed in dashpots to 20-50, points gap re-set to 15 thou. Compressions checked all 160-169 psi hot.
Took it for a run and all was ok... for a short while...then when under load it hesitates when the throttle is slowly pushed down, maybe not a full misfire? What about a weak mixture, would that do it, remember I said the plugs were a nice light biscuit colour.....maybe a Vitesse needs builders tea colour!!Have you tried retarding the timing ?
Paul
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I found my misfiring was caused by the rotor arm was loose . The rivet hold the arm was becoming loose
Paul
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I fitted Huco in my Vitesse . Positioned alongside the battery
You will need an inertia switch like
works well for me
.I’ve protected the pump with an inline filter and a visible glass filter before the carbs
Paul
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I used https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike-motorcyle-fuel-tank-repair-sealer-473ml/?
Follow the instructions to the letter
worked for me
Paul
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Paul
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I use
https://www.toolstation.com/industrial-spray-lacquer-500ml/p44132
for the alloy bumpers on my Vitesse , does a good job
Paul
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2 Chassis bolts loosened by A post and 3 self tappers loosened on body tub joint . Roof bolts still tight
Body jacked byB post and gap now as good as I can get see pic . The Jack is in place overnight and final job is to add new packing which will be a mixture of Penny washers and Wellington boot washers
Paul
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Just loosening the 2 remaining chassis bolts to assist the lift and found 3 more on the outrigger just ahead of drivers seat . Are these ok or should they be bolts
Paul
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New posh tread plates arrived
pic shows the overlay , much narrower though overall effect will be an improvement . Better than cut from a fridge 😱
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1 hour ago, poppyman said:
What are seats out of Paul? They look comfy.
Tony.
MGF , year 2002 , excellent seats . I added heated elements which are for land rovers .
Paul
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On 05/02/2021 at 15:12, Colin Lindsay said:
Set the rear tub on the chassis, align to the front tub / doors, and see how the gaps look with rubber mounting pads only, no shims or spacers. Jack and shim at the required mounting points until the gaps are as good as can be and only then, with the shimmed points resting only and untightened, inspect the other mounts to see if they're still showing a gap, in which case shim as necessary to close the gap but not to raise any further. Tighten to the bare minimum needed to secure the tub, not so much that you squash the mounting pads. It's the same way that I fit the bonnet; rest in place first, slide to gap, and only then line up the brackets, insert the bolts and tighten.
That one may have been tightened without the required spacers in which case it will have been tightened right down regardless of any gap and won't have helped the body alignment.
Colin the gapping exercise is working though the spacer is currently 12mm and likely to end up at 15mm to 17mm. . I was planning to use penny washers . Or should I be using Rubber packing or half and half
Paul
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32 minutes ago, thescrapman said:
Are your treadplates cut from an old freezer?
Fitted by the PO , very thin and were held with Tiger Seal plus rivets . Impossible to remove without creasing . Not sure where they came from but look identical to Paddocks which would have cost £50 plus so have purchased and waiting on these from EBay
Paul
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Update : adjusting drivers door gap
The chassis bolts under the B post and mid door are loose now . It was noticeable the B post chassis bolt opened up between the side runner and floor , approx 10mm . I haven’t removed the roof bolts yet and this still has to be done .
I added a 12mm packer ( alloy tubing ) to the B post and 5mm packer to the next chassis bolt ( mid door ) . There was an existing 3 mm gap already . To fit I jacked up the floor area by the each chassis bolt and inserted the alloy packers .
The alloy tubing is a temp fix and will be replaced by alloy washers when the door gapping is correct .The next pic shows the alloy tubing packers ( arrowed )
The next pic of the drivers door is pre adding the packers , check the gap by the chrome strip
The next pic is after the alloy packers have been added . The gap by the chrome strip has increased by approx 0.5mm so the packers are working
I need now to release the roof bolts and increase the packing , my rough calculation is 2mm of packing will widen the gap by 0.5mm
Paul
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11 minutes ago, derekskill said:
Hello and thankyou for your thoughts on this. Pete, you're absolutely right about stopping the car getting nicked in the first place. Ang and Paul, yeh I suspect it won't make a difference to the insurance premium and yes, apparently it has a sim card with it. Why I was attracted to it, (apart from being a gadget in a box) they do say it is subscription free. I did a spell on a jury service a couple of years ago and met a guy who had a business where his vans had trackers fitted. He showed me his laptop one lunchtime, 2 of his vans were doing 100mph on the motorway, he phoned them up and gave them a ticking off there and then. It was the first time I'd seen it in use, very impressive. They wouldn't be the GPS's from aldi though...
Have you tried the Life360 app . I can track the missus on her shopping trips and monitor her speed , more important can have the tea ready for when comes home 🤗
I use the free option , good app
Paul
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Does the tracker need a sim card ?
When I renewed my Vitesse insurance with PJ I advised that I had added a steering lock ( crook lock ) and motion triggered alarm fitted . Both these had no effect on the renewal quote
Paul
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4 minutes ago, Tanky said:
Brill, thanks Doug. Club shop it is as I need another shed loads of kit.........
Charlie
Another vote for Silentcoat and yes the Clubshop fixing kit is not worth the money . I used draught excluder which is a fraction of the price , others use foam as a sealant
Paul
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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
pleased you have found its 4.5 a far more suitable wheel
tyres go max at 155 to 165
i guessed at the figures but these sites can give some idea of how the side wall sit/balloons (not the best site but as said not easy to find )
mintylamb did an excellent one but its died
155 seems a good compromise . nice upright side wall
Pete
Mintylamb.co.uk is still up for calculating theoretical speed in each gear
Paul
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Looking to replace the door tread plates on my Vitesse . Anybody sourced them lately and any recommendations
Paul
My lockdown project
in My Triumph Restoration Project
Posted
Did you spray with cellulose of 2K ?
Paul