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Paul H

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Posts posted by Paul H

  1. I accessed the front plug after removing the gearbox cover in my Vitesse . I was replacing the slave cylinder when I noticed the plug was leaking . If you chisel with an old screwdriver from the middle to the side then chisel like a can opener the plug will eventually buckle enabling it to be prised out 

    Paul 

    • Thanks 1
  2. 22 minutes ago, ahebron said:

    I have two sliding sun roofs.
    One is for a HC Viva and the other is from an Austin A35.
    When I bought the Viva one years before internet I wrote to whatever comapny it was and they kindly sent me an installation book.
    Never fitted either roof and still have the book.

    I did think about fitting one of them to the Vitesse but am slightly concerned about the difference in roof curvature,

    Adrian

     

    Hi Adrian, what is the maker of the Viva Sunroof?

    Paul

  3. 7 minutes ago, Bfg said:

    Thanks Paul, 

    At 6kg/sq.m for a 4mm thick sheet certainly is sound deadening "mass".  As the bonnet is probably 2 sq.m or more., how much of it do you think needs to be covered for it to be effective. 

    Pete

    I did the interior of my Vitesse . All the floor space plus bulkhead where available and practical . With the benefit of hindsite and more research I could have saved up to 50%
    Paul 

    • Thanks 1
  4. 4 minutes ago, SkillyHerald said:

    New to the forum with my 13/60.

    I over-paid for it last year when I went to look at it.

    All my ideas about what to look for and avoid went out the window.

    I missed a skewed body, huge gaps one side but close the other, other panel gaps all over the place, shocking paintwork, oil leaks, etc.

    But the chassis and body are almost rust free.

    Now a year later it is getting close to presentable.

    Welcome to the forum , lots of help here . Can we see some pics 

    Paul 

  5. 1 hour ago, Bfg said:

    If it's any consolation.,  I didn't get much of anything done today.  Being woken at 5:15am by a neighbour readying themselves for early morning work (..poor sod), and then not getting back to sleep ..until after my alarm went off.  And then not waking up until quarter to eleven.  Not a good start to my day,  so I wrote what I posted and then went out to combat a clatter - the bonnet which rattles n' shakes more than a ice cocktail in a smashed shaker. .

    Upon investigation I found this . . . 

    P1380408s.jpg.64f7e3bae297d3b5d0f6058360483daa.jpg

    ^ The keen eyed observer will note its lock nut ..fully unscrewed.  I wound the dovetail latch (screwdriver in its end slot) back in by 3-1/2 turns, tried the bonnet for its closed fit, before tightening that lock-nut.  Now the bonnet pulls down to the rubbers on both sides rather than bouncing around on the sprung latch. 

    Funny how that job took 10 minutes to identify, look up in the manual how to adjust it, and then do the job and it makes more difference than 8 hours working on the car yesterday. !

    I then made a couple of urgent phone calls to the TR Register's office, re my passwords on that website, before taking the car out to a farm shop for my green groceries. Back via the dust bowl / my storage container to sort out and collect tools and bits for the next tasks I want to tackle.   

    During that little drive, the bonnet rattle is many times better ..so that I can now more clearly hear numerous other tappeties, rattles, and whirring noises. :lol: 

    And the steering wheel is now sufficiently clear of my leg.  In fact I wonder if it might go forward again by half an inch as a better compromise to a slightly straighter arm driving position.  Should anyone find their steering heavy at parking speeds - they might try bringing their steering wheel closer. The geometry and ergonomics of doing this makes the steering a good bit easier as such speeds.   

    By the way, I propose adhering anti-drum / sound deadening to the underside of the bonnet .. Any recommendations ?  Nothing that looks too modern please.

    Cheers, Pete

     

    Silentcoat from Amazon or EBay , cut shape with scissors and heat with hot air gun . I used a wallpaper seam roller to smooth the silentcoat into the contours of the body 

    Paul 

     

    • Thanks 1
  6. 1 hour ago, johny said:

    Why not fit the radio and see if your ignition light comes on when blasting out on tickover? If not stick with the dynamo as it looks a lot more classic (they even sell expensive alternators made to look like dynamos!), unless of course youre looking for something to fiddle with (and theres nothing wrong with that😍)...

    A word of caution on Dynamator  , an alternator in a Dynamo case . My one lasted 2 weeks before it failed . Apparently they get hot and can over heat . I did get a replacement which I sold on eBay 

    Paul 

  7. 7 minutes ago, clive said:

    Look on youtube etc, there are various ways to centerline the car, use string, bricks and all sorts to check the alignment. But there is no correct amount of shimming as std. A friend had his car set up on a proper jig, and he has loads of shims one side. But the figures are all spot on in teh middle of the acceptable range.

    The other tool is a gunsons trackrite, so simple to set toe, front or rear.

    Plus 1 on the Gunsen Trackrite

    • Like 1
  8. 2 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

    Having filled my radio slot with gauges I bought one of these, I think it was even shallower than 9cm. It sit nearly unseen on the driver's side "envelope" shelf. Only the USB socket on RHS can be accessed and everything works off the remote clicker. £15 from China.

    radio2.PNG.aa293ac5288105ad607e90e7cb54f43e.PNGradio.PNG.53d315734d1d3a6113e082a3a022c569.PNG

    Doug

    I’ve got a similar one for my Vitesse . Works well , also has blue tooth 

    Paul 

     

  9. 18 hours ago, PeteH said:

    I had to spray some "repair panels" a few years back. And used Cellulose, base coat, finished off with a top laquer.

    Pete

    Hi Pete . Can you tell the difference between polished cellulose and clear coat over cellulose apart from the hard work with the celly 😋

    Paul 

  10. 12 hours ago, Badwolf said:

    I would strip out everything (carefully and painlessly), remove the rubber weatherstrips taking out the glass when you feel it is the easiest point to do so. Make sure that you carefully check for dropped parts inside the doors before they go for stripping. Use one of those mirrors on a stick or one of the scopes that you can get for about £30.

    I used a magnet on a telescopic wand . The Vitesse required circlip removal which is out of sight , used a cheap 5 ins diameter mirror to view the clip . Worked well 

    Paul 

  11. 3 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

    Paul

    My late 2009 Honda S2000 was ceramic coated by the previous owner.

    It is certainly very shiny and sheds water well.

    No idea of costs or potential negatives, but I'm certainly not complaining.

    Ian

    I think it cost £300 plus . My modern has lots of small chips on the bonnet . Not down to the metal and wondered if a self applied ceramic coating would have prevented / reduced the chips .‘I’ve seen ceramic coating products which cost £30 to £100 just wondered if they were of any use 

    Paul 

  12. If the door is similar to my Vitesse door I removed each bolt , photographed in place , put in a plastic bag with a ref no then photographed again with the plastic bag in the photo . You will need to disconnect the winder before the window can be removed . For the Vitesse the 1/4 light needs removal before the window can be removed . Also all the trim / clips . 
    when reassembling the window can be dropped to its lowest point and the 1/4 light refixed for spraying 

    Paul 

  13. 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Came from SimonBBC, it's a new unit fitted with electronic ignition and correct advance springs for the Herald. I've had it salted away for a few years now; must check if he's still doing them.

    H+H Solutions are also excellent for rebuilds.

    I purchased new from a similar source though no vernier scale

    Paul

     

    5B00F235-6C6F-4C0C-A170-2F35C1C398DE.thumb.jpeg.d302ed45de7dfbf018b26106b3512ddc.jpeg

     

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