Jump to content

Paul H

TSSC Member
  • Posts

    3,120
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Posts posted by Paul H

  1. Which tow bar have you got ? Mine is a Watling 

    65F0CE97-683F-4CFC-BED3-1C6243C4DB14.thumb.jpeg.7291dacafb747f2fe84a84b572e6e6a2.jpeg

    Here’s a link to a tow bar thread plus fitting instructions for the Watling . The other type is a witter  tow bar which will require the rear bumper to be drilled to accept the towing hitch . The more popular is the Watling as no bumper modification is required and is still in production and available from the Club Shop 

     

    Paul 

    • Like 1
  2. 10 minutes ago, GHILA said:

    I used soda crystals and hot water plus 60off 40mm long hex head bolts. with the tank out and suspended from the garage roof, gave it a good shake in all directions. Left over night emptied out including the bolts. These are hardest to get out due to the lip of the fillee and sender holes. Washed out with washing powder and hot water. Then used a pressure washer. Dried out left for a week then coated with Frost Pro15 Tank Sealer.

    I would also use the Frost Metalprep as well as this treats any rust . To dry out I used a hot air blower 

    Paul 

  3. 1 minute ago, 68vitesse said:

    Made these up for my Vitesse, the uj's were of ebay and sold for model cars and boats. Had to drill out the uj for the carb connection then a piece of 8mm stainless bar to connect.

    Regards

    Paul.

     

     

    P1010002(1).JPG

    Neat job - impressed 

    Paul 

     

  4. 4 minutes ago, PeteH said:

    Am I right is thinking that is one of the "sitting down" ones. I note someone is advertising along those lines in the Classic press?.

    Pete

    Yes it’s a fibre glass insert with a sliding seat and a sliding rack for tools . It’s approx 2/3 height . It’s a mech mate , www.mech-mate.co.uk.

    it’s a great bit of kit , if you need more detailed info let me know 

    Paul 

     

  5. 42 minutes ago, Tipidave said:

    It isn’t really two pumps causing the same... the new pump I installed was

    observed to be outputting 4psi which was a vast improvement of the 9-10 from the original. The over flow problem was not entirely sorted but much improved. This fuel pump failed after just a few miles and upon inspection was always destined to do so... just not of a good enough quality. 
     

    so I fitted the original ( still a replacement and not from the sixties)  back on for time being with the spring out of the new one. I haven’t measured the output pressure but it was back to its old trick.

    I am hoping that if I can get a pump with 1. 5 psi output or there abouts  all will be well again. Just not sure how to source such a pump... but looks like Colin can help👍👍👍

    I’ve fitted a Huco which is suction pump and fitted in the engine bay in my Vitesse The psi is 2.2 and serves 2 Strombergs . More details if you need them 

    here’s the spec , ignore the price as they available cheaper https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-14-V-2-2-PSI-0-15-bar-Low-Pressure-Fuel-Pump-HUCO-133010-Kit-Car-/254645067130?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjwx6WDBhBQEiwA_dP8rYUdi9jvfIaLiYEixX3Vvd2GkC-mtN8p0ZPcg5D9U5gCLBqkg7nlIxoCjHkQAvD_BwE

     

    Paul 

  6. I used the Frosts kit which adds a resin skin to the tank filling any perforations . These kits are like marmite . In my case following the instructions to the letter the kit has worked . I even had enough to complete a refurb spare tank I had acquired 

    Paul

     

  7. 1 minute ago, rogerguzzi said:

    Hello All

                 I also need a new trolley jack as all the cheap ones are leaking now!!

    Has anybody used these people and what about this jack?

    I do not use a trolley jack that often as I have mechanical 4 post lift and 2 scissor jacks to lift weight off the wheels when at working height before chocking up

    I would like one that is not as heavy to carry etc(getting OLD)

      1.5 Ton Aluminium Trolley Jack (sgs-engineering.com)

    Roger

    I bought 2 of their cheapie jacks £24 each . 1 failed after 13 months and the repair kit would have been more than the original cost . The second one is working but not as efficient as the Aldi equivalents which have 3 year warranty 

    Paul

    • Thanks 1
  8. 32 minutes ago, Mathew said:

    Love the pit in the background, i would definitely use those ramps, have though about getting a set in the past. I filled in my hole in the garage, kept getting in the way! Either the hole was just where i wanted to put a support or the car was in the wrong place, i had not fully dug it out, just left the space when i made the slab.

    The pit has a 4 ins wide recessed ledge . Filled in with 2ins planks , works well

    FDC6448C-D934-4B61-8B53-050241A2EDDE.thumb.jpeg.3e0d0297247708cd4087b3a5491cf8c2.jpeg

    Paul 

    • Like 1
  9. With the weather nicely warming up it was time to spray the Vitesse door with 2 coats of 2k Epoxy primer surfacer using my new gun which for a cheapie I was well impressed with the result . Purchased from Spray Guns Direct with 1.8 tip and a 2.0 . I used the 1.8 for this job. 
    https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/index.php/a-n-i-f1-ns-budget-gravity-spraygun.html#sthash.L5gbjzk6.dpbs

    Spraying is completely new to me as well as body filling and it’s been a time consuming baptism of fire , this being the first time I’m satisfied with the result 

    ACD00D2A-C829-4FF3-8CA4-7052CAE28943.thumb.jpeg.f63b459a84bfe8e67da2279ce29c6968.jpeg

     

    0E3F61E4-B711-4A93-8301-8B4C6E7BC02F.thumb.jpeg.6dbdc3ea0435932135baa98e480dbc14.jpeg
     

    The door needs to cure overnight and ready for next sanding session tomorrow 

    I can recommend the gun and the HB Body 989 Epoxy system 

    Paul 

     

     

  10. 10 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    If I'm correct (it's a while since I did my last doors) you can drop the glass down into the door and just leave it sitting on the door bottom; just mask off the areas that paint may get in through. When it comes to fitting the glass again, get it into the quarterlight runner first, slide it up a bit, then fit the other runner to the other edge, slide it up sufficiently out of the way, keeping it in the channels and right to the top, and prop it there with a length of wood. When you fit the winder mechanism let it drop down until you can engage the sliders / rollers.

    Thanks Colin . I’ll be able to do a dry run to check out before cellulose spraying 

    Paul 

  11. 2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    If it was me, I'd refit the door and gap it, refit the quarterlight, gap the quarterlight properly to the A post, and then remove the assembly and respray (door with quarterlight fitted in final place.)

    All of the other ancillaries can be fairly easily fitted into a resprayed door with no damage.

    Hi Colin , if I fit the quarter light then spray I will have to fit the window ? Here’s a pic of glass removal and the position of quarter light .

    06F941A7-22FE-4582-B3AE-AA1FC6B9377E.thumb.jpeg.a29645a0ec1d0186988665f279a2506f.jpeg

     

    I like the idea of prefitting and sorting the gaps before spraying .

    Paul

     

×
×
  • Create New...