ahebron
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Everything posted by ahebron
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For the boot handle its the pin closest to the handle end if that makes sense and its offset to one side. Give it all a good clean first as the pin can be hidden under muck. Do not under any circumstances drift the big square pin out! On a rusty lock it can look obvious DAMHIK! You dont need to change the whole igniton switch, just push a pin tool up the hole in the igniton housing and the barrel will release. Did the very last of the Mk2 Vitesse have the igniton on the steering column, if so I believe this wont work for those.
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I removed the barrels from my ignition, boot and glovebox but am having trouble with the door locks on my Vitesse 6. I can get the lock mechanism out of the door handle which is dead simple but removing the barrel is proving a bit trickier The reason for removing the barrels is so I can match a key to the locks. I have two new good keys and lots of the various locks found on our cars so parts arent a problem. I am also fitting a key lock to the passenger door on my car. Thanks Adrian
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I did that today on my Vitesse 6 Today was refit the dash plank and connect everything up. Like Peter I have a surplus of heater cables and an acute shortage of choke cables but I did have one removeable choke knob. And I like the way the control has detents inits travel I undid the wee bolt that holds the heater control wire and replaced it with a length of 1.6mm steel TIG wire which at present until I learn to TIG is the most use anything to do with the TIG has had in nine months. Using the rubber joiner and some spare outer sheath it made it to the carbs. Time will tell how long the solid wire lasts and if it vibrates with the engine but it will be easy to replace with a flexible cable if needed. Thanks Adrian
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Thanks for those part numbers Pete An interesting observation with the ancillary gauges I have in my collection is the stabilised gauges have 1 mounting stud on the rear while the non stabilised have 2 mounting studs. This is only with a very small sample group but it would be interesting if anyone else is seeing this with their gauges.
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If you have a 3D Printer you could always print off a car. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3996076 I havent seen much if anything being made on the 3D printer for Triumphs
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You do wonder how much power/torque is lost in that horrid exhaust manifold. My dad recently had a similar manifold replaced by long branch headers on his Lagonda Rapier and difference is like day and night.
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I think I made a mistake. The one with the 2 bars is for the fan switch only and one end of the other one does the ignition switch.
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The one with the double ended pins is for removing dash control bezels and yes I have found it necessary at times to use a bar even just an inch out each side. I have only used a bar on dashes that are new to me and have most likely never been removed before, I think its more the metals corroding together. And IIRC the one with the two bars is for the ignition switch and possibly the fan switch. I found them in the glovebox today, I amde them a few years ago to help dismantle dashes The blue thing on the right is the end of a ball point pen.
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I am wondering if different companies made the woodwork for Triumph and used different wayys to make them? I do know that the large saloons made in NZ had different door cappings to UK built cars. Not that I am saying my cappings are made in NZ as I am lead to believe only a handful of Vitesse were made here, prefix 3 on the chassis numbers. Mine dont look to be veneered but these did not come with my cars as my original woodwork got destroyed in a workshop clean up many years ago after my Mk1 2.5PI Estate was written off.
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In my books misuse of a tool comes a close second to the correct use. Especaily when it involves a hammer😜
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Thanks Dave Reason for asking is I found two sets wrapped up with a couple of dashboards in my garage roof and while the varnish is flaking off the timber beneath seems to be in ok condition apart from water stains. If I can get these to be reusable then I will need to darken them a wee bit to match the dashboard.
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Are they veneered? If so what was the veneer timber? Thanks Adrian
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These are mostly homemade so should be ok for inclusion, can't make my own pins.😉 B But this is partialy home made so its sitting on the fence😉 s Some of you might have seen these on another forum that decided to delete photos.
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Thanks for that info sheet Colin. It appears that both my petrol gauges are BF which is bimetal, you can just see the number tucked under the right hand side of the dial shroud when hodling it. Number BF2201/08 you have to hold the gauge at the right angle and I used an illuminated magnifying glass to assist in reading. My sender which is 6 hole reads 270 ohm empty to 15 ohm full which fits into sender unit 2 on the list which specs 240 ohm empty to 20 ohm full and is the resisitive range for the BF type gauges. As Pete said they had 6 hole for stabilised and non stablised. As I a using a 2 litre loom this will work fine as I can put a stabiliser on one of the speedo screw legs. Now I either need to find a satbilised voltage temperature gauge or run that at 12 volts.
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Hi YS Is that because you have to remove the head studs to remove the head?
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This is my answer to the dash cardboard going soft. I have several Mk2 dash surrounds but no spare Mk1. It is 0.5mm galv sheet and is glued and riveted to the old cardboard. On the right of the dash is some plywood that was an old repair around the wiper switch and windscreen washer pump which is why the metal is stepped. Hopefully this will work and will be better for screwing on the dash plank. I can always glue some clips on the back if needed.
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I bought an Evolution circular saw which will cut up to 6mm plate. https://shop.evolutionpowertools.com/collections/metal-working-range I was sceptical but at the price for a brand new saw I couldnt pass it by. And it does everything I wanted it to do, I have cut 4mm thick box with it and 2mm sheet with ease. Obviously being what it is cutting bends is not its forte. For curves the plasma cutter set correctly is the bollocks but best not free hand.
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My Vit 6 speedo (110mph) doesnt have a stabiliser but the other 3 speedos (120mph) 2 litre have voltage stabilisers on the back of them. As I stated I am using a 2 litre loom which doesnt mean much as I can bypass where the stabiliser goes if I dont need to use one. But Pete mentioned that the 6 hole fuel sender was used for stabilised and non stabilised so how do you check if it is a nonstabilised or stablised sender. I am assuming a resistance reading. Nothing like headin off to bed wondering what answers will await me in the morning.
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I see many comments about different tank fuel senders and gauges with voltage regulators and gauges without voltage regulators. I gather that the 6 screw sender that is on my tank is for unregulated voltage to the gauge but how do I tell if I have the correct gauge? Both the fuel gauges I have look the same and are Jaegers but this could mean I have the wrong gauges. I have had two parts Vitesse cars over the years, the Mk2 that I used to build a MK4 Gtfire and the Mk1 that was just for bits. My Vitesse 6 is 1965 with the similar dash to the 2 litre Mk1, the speedo is the 110mph version and has no voltage reg on the back. The wiring loom is from a 2 litre as the 6 one was a mess, this also gives me a reversing light circuit already in the loom I have removed the dash to attempt a rebuild/strenghtening of the pressed cardboad. Thanks Adrian
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As I have stated in other threads I have a Dolomite 3 rail with o/d fitted in my Vitesse 6. It has never been driven with this gearbox I rebuilt the master cylinder recently and it is the original 0.625 for the 6. I measured the slave today and it is 1" from a 2 litre Vitesse. Do I change back to a Vitesse 6 slave which IIRC is 7/8 or fit a 2 litre master cylinder which I think is 0.7 . Both options I will need to buy the cylinders as I do not have any in my spares. Thanks Adrian
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And not forgetting the beautiful smoothness of the venerable Triumph 6😊
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Hi Colin Sorry no number on the cover, and it is getting fragile! The base has Wingard Made in England on the in side of the base and the back of it has B on it. A quick look on Ebay followed by quickly sittin down when I saw the price for the base and lens UKPds149. https://www.ebay.ie/itm/INTERIOR-LIGHT-BODY-LENS-MK1-MINI-AUSTIN-MORRIS-BMC-COOPER-WINGARD-FORD-ZEPHYR-/303549556874?hash=item46acf6a88a Lists it for MINI MK1 AUSTIN MORRIS BMC COOPER 1071 998 FORD ZEPHYR ZODIAC CONSUL 204E 213E EOTA MK.1 MK.2 MAYS AQUAPLANE But you can buy the lens from https://www.minisport.com/17h9971-interior-lamp-cover-dome-shaped-lens-that-was-fitted-to-mini-models-1959-to-1974.html for a fraction of the price wanted on the Ebay auction I have just ordered one
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Thanks Pete Thats what I need to know. Wouldn't this have been worse with the old metal fans then the plastic ones?
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It looks like you have started to unravel a 600m roll Fantastic deal you are doing there Pete. I bought mine from Newtonm Commercial back in the days when In had employment😉 What was interesting was I asked them if they supplied enough material to do the Vitesse A pillars and they knew nothing about them so I had to order extra material.
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Redo the roof lining of 300 x Vitesse😉
