ahebron

I have one that looks like the one in the photo. Its in my spares and still has gauges. IIRC the dash it came out of had been trimmed. Adrian

What I learnt recently when I pulled the gearbox out of the Vitesse is that you can rest engine back on two pieces of wood wedged between the chassis and the rear engine plate on both sides once the gearbox is out. No need to worry about leaving the sump supported. []\( * )/[] Adrian

Evening Can someone please tell me the thickness of the cork gasket that is fitted to the 6 screw fuel tank sender on a Vitesse 6? Thanks Adrian

48 posts till the first mention of tea, whats going on! Come on guys this is a serious bit of work Rich is undertaking and will require more than a few cups. This one will also require cake.

I have just done the 2 speed conversion to the single speed Lucas DR3a wiper motor as found in our cars. Relatively simple if you can follow a wiring diagram and solder. I used a 10 ohm 25 watt power resistor. And made a wee bracket using the windings screws to locate it. http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/two-speed.pdf And it runs through a Vitesse headlight switch with the wiper knob giving fast speed first pull the slow speed second pull. Current draw fast=1.7amps, slow=2.2 amps. As the instructions say be careful when connecting it up to the switch. Adrian

Hi Peter It think you are after OPT Crimping tool LY-O3B or similar. These do the insulation and wire at the same time. I do have a set that you have to crimp each individually

Thanks Pete For some reason I had been dreading this job for a long long time but I think it was just a matter of starting it and seeing where we end up! Now I have two more bonnets to fix 😉 Adrian

My spare1600 is a short block complete with metal fan that hasnt turned over in many many many years. But I have a NOS bare cylinder head for it thats hasnt even had valves cut into it. That one for sale has had a decent amount of money spent on it to get it to that stage, well if it was in NZ it would be a decent amount. Adrian

Just rebuilt the pump on my 1600 and it wouldnt work. I fitted the kit and replaced the valves but no joy. Out with the pressure gauge and outlet is giving positive 2.5psi but input was giving nothing. Take the top off the pump and noticed that the glass bowl had a wee chip ,out of its base that would not seal against the gasket. Luckily I had a spare glass dome with no damage and that was fitted and the pump has negative pressure on inlet and positive on outlet and best of all it pumps petrol😉 I might try repair the damaged glass with knead it or a glue. Adrian

They probably thought there goes another Triumph Herald owner😉 Adrian

After giving up looking for a supplier of the bottom of the grille aperture for my Vitesse I reluctantly decided to use my last week day off before return to work next week sorting it. Plan 1 involved cutting out of 50x10mm bar with my jigsaw a curve that matches the top of the opening and then beating a piece of metal into shape using the curve as die. But I then realised that 10mm is not wide enough. Plan 2 was to cut out of the 50x10mm bar a 18mm x 600mm length with my metal cutting circular saw, it is rated to 6mm but by taking it easy it cut the 10mm. Went off a wee bit so put it into the mill to even it out to 18mm. Then it was out with the oxyacetylene to heat the cut and milled bar pressing it into the concave piece from Plan 1 giving it the shape to make the curved channel with. I had a length of 1.2mm galv sheet which I cut to 48mm (14 + 20 + 14) width x 600mm and folded one side of the channel in the folder followed by the first use of my shrinker to pull a curve into one side. Other side was done in the vice with g clamps and a hammer. Coat with zinc phosphate. Stage one completed but I need the piece to go behind which is the strengthener and what the grille screws too. And I have it already, yes the piece I used as the die to make the outer channel is perfect to use as the strengthener. All I had to do was grind down the ends to fit into the existing channels on each side of the opening and weld it in. Before the next part I drilled and tapped a hole in the middle of the bar for the grills mounting screw Then I drill 4 holes in the outer channel to plug weld and weld those and at both ends. I did cut back the outer panel on the front so the joints dont line up. While working on the bonnet I came across some cracked paint in the rh headlight recess and picked it out to see surface rust under the paint and also found a crack in the panel where it joins onto the bonnet brace, this has been brazed at some time so I couldn't mig it but might end up cutting the section out and rewelding. And the same on the lh side. Both look like no primer on the metal just top coat🤬 Adrian

And if using those horrid squash connectors with the coloured sleeves please please please use a proper crimper and not a pair of sidecutters or pliers. As a mains voltage sparky by trade I detest them except when properly crimped, I often come across them and the wire falls out and this is at mains voltage. If you are doing a bit of wiring it is worth investing in the ratchet type that crimp the wire and sheath at one time for any type of crimp or ferrule. Sorry to hijack. Adrian

Thank you. So bonnet behind the headlights, not chassis. Last time I had horns on a Vitesse it was 5 trumpets that played Bridge on the River Kwai all bolted on the left hand inner front guard. Adrian

Apart from on the end of the horn wires where on the car do the horns go? I am missing the ones for mine so bought a pair of Stebels and am curious as to the exact location? Adrian

I have a jar full of solder connectors I have pulled off looms over the years and I reuse them. Use my high temp hot air gun to melt the solder and pull the old wire out. Presolder the new wire getting the solder well into the strands then fill the connector with solder by sticking the tip of the iron into the end of the connector and feeding solder in from the cable end. When solder is nice and hot and dripping on my toes poke presoldered wire in. Jobs a goodun!

Photo of my gearbox mount Adrian

I had the car on the hoist yesterday as I was filling the diff and gearbox with oil, GL4. I decided to see what happened when I pressed the clutch pedal with the car in gear and I was delighted to feel no drag on the flywheel so it looks like using the Vitesse 6 clutch master and 2 litre slave might just work. Adrian

It could have a Spitfire Mk4 swing spring. Or has broken leafs, I've had that on a Mk4 Spitfire. Adrian

My new one from Minisport arrived today and looks good.

TPA3116 chip An amp with one of these should work in a car as a bluetooth player. I just fitted an in my workshop to play bt from my phone or surface and line in from the internet radio. Also has a usb and sd slot. They are dirt cheap and worth a play with

That looks like a Lucas 34317 which is/was also a headlight switch. https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?113655-Wiring-to-TR4A-Wiper-Switch Adrian

I have some spare in a jar for moments like this.

Who said that?😉

Seeing you can buy different thickness nyloc nuts I cant see it being that much of an issue. But I suppose it depends how much you take of them. On the prop shaft nuts the bolts didnt protrude from the nylocs and as I didnt have any shorter ones in stock I took 3 to 4mm off them. A rule of thumb thread depth 1-1.5 x times the diameter of the thread but came across this recently https://www.element.com/nucleus/2016/06/29/six-fascinating-facts-about-fasteners Fastener Fact 1 If you’ve ever designed a part with a tapped hole, you may have wondered, “How many threads do I need to make a strong connection?” The answer is that it varies, but six at most. Because bolts stretch slightly when load is applied, the loading on each thread is different. When you apply a tensile load on a threaded fastener, the first thread at the point of connection sees the highest percentage of the load. The load on each thread decreases from there, as seen in the table below. Additional threads beyond the sixth will not further distribute the load and will not make the connection any stronger.

Exactly.