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Got the clutch slave cylinder mounts helicoiled today. To make the holes an appropriate size I used a dremel flexi drive with engraving cutter tool and gently took the metal out till I could snugly fit the helicoil drill into as a reference. Tap, fit the helicoil and bolt up. Nick I didnt need to trim the chassis but I did cut more out of the transmission tunnel to clear the speedo drive on the right and the solenoid on the left, that extra inch in length is a bugger. Oh err missus.

And it doesn't hurt as much when you brush a finger or back of hand against it. DAMHIK I have a Mk2 fan fitted on the front of my 1600. To give a bit of clearance to the radiator I removed 10mm off the mounting boss, I also made a pair of 4 degree tapered spacers to tilt the radiator back so it is parallel with the fan.

I have set of shrinker stretchers, still in their box. I was wondering if it would be possible to make a foot lever system that would still allow you to have the s or s in the vise? I suppose you would have to brace it to the vise to make it work properly Just thinking that way as like many I am getting short of space. Adrian

Thanks Graham but yes all I see is clean holes, I could drill the holes out and tap it with UNC or maybe make some stepped studs. I am used to doing extra jobs on this car so hopefully when I do my Mk2 Convertible I will have made all the mistakes on this one and the last one. And to be honest its more fun than working😉 Adrian

Cleaned the gearbox inside and out and took the sump off the overdrive to give that a clean. It looks like the gearbox has been used but as I bought it along time ago I cannot complain. Some fine metal on the magnetic drain plug but no bronze or big pieces of metal came out so fingers crossed, all the teeth are where they should be and look ok. I made a new mount out of 25mm box section along the chassis using the original bolt holes and I welded compression tubes for the bolts. Across the rear end I bolted a 50mm x 10mm plate with a slot in it underneath the box section. I also bolted a 25mm box section under the gearbox mount to do this I welded a 10mm deep plate across the inside and drilled and tapped it. On the underside of this I welded another 10mm plate with a drilled and tapped hole in the middle so removal of the rear mount is easier than fiddling with the two mount bolts. That extra length makes things a bit challenging! To refit I also cut out more of the tunnel to get the rear of the gearbox down to line up with the engine. The reason for making the mount like this is I didn't have an original mount and I can access the whole length of the gearbox and overdrive underside without having to remove the mount plate Started bolting up the box to the engine and got the passenger side done but will need to move the car sideways and up to do the rest. The car is stored tight to my garage shelves and is on wheel jacks so I pull it out then use my scissor hoist to lift it. Then I went 'bugger' as I stripped the threads on the clutch slave cylinder mount. Tomorrow I will look into possibly helicoil-ing the holes but drilling looks a bit tight due to the clutch arm being in the way. Plenty of ways to skin a cat. Adrian

This is great stuff. When I first fitted the gearbox many years ago I commented on a Triumph forum that the gearbox seemed to be too long but was firmly told it couldn't be so that is now sorted. And yes it is a bugger to get out, I had to cut a small section of floor by the solenoid to get it out and bend back the tunnel to clear the speedo drive. As it was built for a GT6/Vitesse as per the white marker pen then they would have fitted the correct input shaft. If I remember tomorrow I can take the cover off and get a photo of the internals if anyone is interested. Looking at the C stamped in the gearbox the bottom arc of it seems short so maybe it could be G but as this is a mongrel box does the housing number matter. I am building a new mount that will make it easier to remove as the one I made when I first fitted it does not allow easy removal with the body and exhaust fitted. Excuse the red paint that was when I had to remove powder coating that had spider rust underneath it.

Hello Its the wheels that have caught my eye What are they from, they look different.

I removed the gearbox from my Vitesse 6 today to release the clutch that had rusted to the flywheel. As I have commented and asked questions in this thread I decided not to start another thread. Is this a 3 rail 1850 overdrive gearbox? In picture of the reverse switch the adaptor plate between the overdrive and gearbox doesnt look right to me. Gearbox housing number is DC94713 AAW Thanks Adrian

Hi Colin Sorry the box went a few years ago. I just used the info on Tegelerizer site to find the starter motor equivalent for Aus/Nz I bought it from these guys https://www.auto8.com.au/p/10002-electrics/20039-starter-system/30169-starter/b/auto-8/s06-226.html I do have a number Bosch F 042 000 135 454 from an website photo and it cross references to the starter motors for Holden Rodeo you are welcome to follow the trail but I cant guarantee it is what I have fitted https://partinfo.org/bosch-f042000135/ PartInfo.org Manufacturers Car Parts BOSCH Starter F 042 000 135 BOSCH F 042 000 135 (F042000135) Starter Main information about car part BOSCH F 042 000 135 Producer BOSCH Number F 042 000 135 / F042000135 Group Starter Description Starter ; End Silencer; Water Tank, radiator Cross numbers AKS DASIS DENSO BOSCH 0986016260 BOSCH 0986016261 OE 12V14KW Car models which BOSCH F 042 000 135 is suitable for HOLDEN RODEO Pickup pickup 1976-1988 HOLDEN RODEO Pickup pickup 1988-2003 HOLDEN RODEO Flatbed / Chassis flatbed / chassis 1988-2003 Analogue spare parts of BOSCH F 042 000 135 AD KUHNER 20534 Starter AINDE CGB-23148 Starter AKS DASIS DENSO Water Tank, radiator ALANKO 440343 Starter ARTEC 48212560 Starter AS-PL S6051 Starter ATL AUTOTECHNIK A 16 260 Starter AUTOTEAM SDN189A Starter BLUE PRINT ADZ91203 Starter BOSCH 0986016260 Starter BOSCH 0 986 016 261 Starter BTS TURBO S510977 Starter CASCO CST40189 Starter CASCO CST40189AS Starter CEVAM 9723 Starter CV PSH 130.504.092 Starter DA SILVA 040645 Starter DA SILVA D040645 Starter DELCO REMY DRS3148 Starter DRI 343007092 Starter EAI 11736 Starter EDR 913148 Starter EDR EF18413 Starter ELSTOCK 25-1347 Starter EUROTEC 11040290 Starter FARCOM 103336 Starter FRIESEN 8052908 Starter HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS J5219008 Starter KLARIUS 220534 End Silencer LAUBER 22.0534 Starter LUCAS ELECTRICAL LRS02036 Starter MAGNETI MARELLI 600000172270 Starter MAGNETI MARELLI 943241007010 Starter MD REBUILT 48212560 NPS I521U02 Starter OE 12V14KW Starter QUINTON HAZELL QRS2074 Starter SANDO 6040189 Starter SANDO 6040189.0 Starter SNRA IS9005 Starter VALEO 458560 Starter WAIGLOBAL 16878 Starter WAIGLOBAL 17240 Starter WAIGLOBAL 17240N Starter WAIGLOBAL SS234 Starter

A few years back I fitted one of the Isuzu/Holden starter motors to my Vitesse 6. I bought it off Ebay I had no idea if or how it would work till today. New battery, plugs still in I turned the key for the first time in a very long time to get oil pressure up before I start her. My first thought is I have damaged the engine as it turned so fast and freely unlike the old Lucas starters from memory. Take the plugs out and she spins even faster so thankfully I dont have a bad engine. In my search for the elusive oil pressure I was spinning the starter for a while and no sign of flagging. The engine now runs and at present I wholeheartedly recommend the starter motor from a Holden Jackeroo/Isuzu Trooper2.6 litre petrol motor for our Triumph 6's All the info is here, I did my wiring keeping the Triumph starter relay. Thank you Teglerizer for the info http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm Adrian IMG_3100.MOV

Says who?

Remember to drink tea whilst fitting the parts, it does help.

Colmap is 3d scanning software you can use with your phone or even a camera for 3d printing.

This was the socket getting picked up by the ring gear and driven into the diff pushing the spider gear shaft out the side of the housing, it made an awful mess but I got it the gearbox welded back up and back in the car.

It would be a big printer. Unless you glued the bits together😉

I also used mine for removing hot water tank elements.

Don't recall my 1974 Mk4 having anything fancy in the brakes when I converted it to Vitesse Mk2 spec. We didnt have much legislation here like Australia. And lets not mention asbestos in cars

I lost a socket on my Peugeot 405, couldnt find it anywhere. It turned up in the diff after a trip home on a trailer. But thats another story for a different forum.

A bit of insulation tape across the end of a socket or spanner then press the nut or bolt into it is very handy for getting the tricky sods into place. Some times a bit easier than a magnet as magnets can occasionally get attracted to the wrong piece.

I didnt make it but I reckon we have all modified time when we work on our cars.

Exhaust gas from a running car will do the same as CO2. Just dont breath it Solder makes sense as no need to weld. Beware POR14+1 if you do not apply it correctly it will bite you in a big way. I did my deceased Mk1 2.5PI Estate tank with it and I had paint like seaweed floating in the tank.

You do need the key to remove the barrel Luckily my mechanic mate over the back has a box of old car keys so I went through the keys found one that works and released the barrels from the door lock button. Still trying to release the barrel I want from the boot lock. I have removed the lock pin but think it has corroded inside so at present it is full of a penetrant. I did try heating it with a hot air gun but no joy. Luckily time is a tool I have lots of at present.

After removing the bolt and the circlip I find the door locks need a key to remove the barrel from the push button😀 I found this by hammering a barrel out of a push button then retumblering it to work with the key I have. The brass pins bent over but can be straightened and the shit metal of the lock can be tidied with a jewellers file. I need to find a good lock picker or a big set of car keys to go through. Also there are at least two different locks for the glovebox and boot. One being double sided and the other single sided. Plus for the boot the locking actuator pin is either square or round. So far I know that the glovebox lock parts are not easily interchangeable, slight size differences in the lock and its mountings.

Hi Adrian I dont see why you would need to do this with the longer bolts unless the repairs have made to the wishbone have neccessitated the longer bolts The design of this fitting is very different in operation to the original trunnion which did have a degree of pivot on the bolt which was made worse when the bolt and trunion sleeve became one and would then wear out the wishbone. With this design all you are doing is bolting it in place to make it 'solid' with the wishbone the movement is taken care of with the 'rose' joint , I suppose if you so desired you could weld the joint to the bottom wishbone but fitting the shock would be interesting. Adrian

And while its out if it doesnt have a drain plug get one fitted.