Colin Lindsay

The step is the seam the chrome strip lies on / in. Last 13/60 I worked on, the body shop welded wings flush to the bonnet top, and then had to cut them off and reweld with a step.

Last time in Curry’s when I went to pay for a toaster the girl behind the till informed me they were 'three for two’… I could only ask why on earth anyone would want three toasters... (To be fair it was across the whole brand and included kettles, electric frying pans and electric irons… but the look she gave me was priceless)

Not wanting to hi-jack the thread but I wish they’d bring out a K&N filter that fitted inside the standard air box… I prefer the look of it to the two huge chrome pancakes (used to have them then removed them again) but the original paper filters can be hard to find… anyone know of any straight fit filters of that size?

I’m a great believer in changing the oil regularly whether the car is used a lot or not. Tescos sell Castrol GTX for £6 per 2 litres - a claimed price of half their usual RRP - so for around £12 plus the price of a filter I get a year’s clean oil around the engine. Check yours the next time you dip the oil and ask yourself if you really want that black gritty stuff floating around the insides of your engine... As Richard says, you can tell the engine is running more quietly after a change and good oil has been used.

Are you sure it’s the alternator that is causing the sparks when you attach the battery terminal, and not something else shorting or left on? However as thescrapman says five terminals points to an odd style of alternator that may not use the same wiring as tyne more common versions fitted to Triumphs. I’d look for a three-terminal version and fit that, just to be sure.

I was looking for a first car for my daughter recently and had a look at the Toyota Aygo plus Citroen / Peugeot versions; I have started to notice after many years of driving the same two cars - Volvo V70 T5 Estate and Landrover Discovery TD5 and so letting other cars’ evolutions and development pass me by - that a lot of new cars are essentially only the same rebadged model. A bit like the old Wolseley / Riley / Triumph / Austin / Morris days… things may not have moved on THAT far!

Not without adding more weight… I don’t think it’s really justified for every day use. Just fill it full of Waxoyl to stop it being eaten away, which admittedly does make it lighter. Stonechip on the leading edges protects quite well.

S’funny but my GT6 ones are quite good, despite having been fitted for years - can’t remember if I did it or not, but they’re little skinny silver ones and seem to clear the rain off sufficiently for me to see out, although a better demister on the front screen would be a big improvement. I have a few bubble-cards of NOS ones so assuming they’re still serviceable after years of garage roofspace storage I’ll use them on my Herald when it gets that far. Landrover ones (Classic Landies) are really skinny little ones but they do an excellent job; ok I know the Landie screen is flat glass but the blade is microscopic and still clears the rain off. Halfords ones lasted a few minutes on my Discovery…. Even a good clean of the rubber blade with windscreen washer fluid works wonders at improving the cleaning power.

Incidentally you can’t dismantle a Delaney on the car as the front cover is screwed right the way round with small self-tappers; you can’t get at the bottom ones while it’s still fitted. Smiths' covers with the large clips may be able to be removed; I’ve never tried it on the car. The Delaney matrix is larger than the Smiths so theoretically should put out more heat; the fan is also a different design. I’m in the middle of rebuilding one and the quantity of dead leaves, twigs and other debris that was inside the box was amazing, so removing that, if nothing else, should aid air flow.

Thora Hird drove a Herald, but it didn’t cause a massive surge in sales.. However: this is a thought-provoking sentence from 1904Vitesse: "I personally believe that each classic has its time when it joins the next level in the world of classic cars and as such all owners should embrace this and price their car accordingly regardless of weather it puts the value out of reach to others." A car is only worth what someone is prepared to pay for it, so we can talk figures all day long, but it’s sales that count. Prices of our cars are up as other Marques become too expensive for the lower end of the market. It’s a knock-on effect; if Triumphs become too expensive then prospective owners will move on to something cheaper; we’re left with cars that swallowed huge amounts of money on rebuilds but won’t reach anywhere near that on resale. It’s another boom-and-bust, like we saw back in the 1990s. Cars become more expensive to buy so become more desirable to restore rather than scrap; prices go up, they end up in the hands of speculators and rich collectors and everyday enthusiasts pass them by, so sales slow and prices drop. Even adverts on eBay are reaching funny money; why pay £5- or £6000 for a Herald when you can pay £2000 or less and still get a good one? Incidentally Hugh Robert’s Vitesse was priced over £20000 back in the 1990s when he built it, but it doesn’t mean they were all worth that.

If it kept another car on the road then it was worthwhile… senseless destruction of good cars i.e. banger racing are one thing; breaking an end-of-life car to save others helps us all. Done it myself more than once…

Come back…. come back…… the siren’s call is working. It’s in the blood, I’m afraid…. you’re hooked again. What do you reckon you’ll eventually buy?

And unless your paint is smooth, neither will stick... However with regards to removing the tank: as long as you removed the bracket for the boot stay, you’ll have gained the magic inch of clearance that it requires. With this still in place it’s well nigh impossible.

Cover your floors with heavy cardboard or carpet or you’ll lose a lot of paint in the process; it’s easier to slide the gearbox until you can get a good grip on it but the damage is already done by then.

Actually I was, not having looked at the Club shop device but just going by the name ‘Tracker'. Apologies for confusing the two! However, as with any theft these days, the criminals are becoming more and more sophisticated and with the influx of cheap technology from dodgy elements overseas, readily available over the Internet, you can scan / disable and thieve till your little heart’s content with very little risk. As we say over here: “A lock will only keep an honest man out…"

Eliminate each one in turn; it’s the only way you can trace the break or short. If you at least have oil and ignition lights there’s power somewhere, but it seems there’s a break somewhere along the system. Try moving or bending the loom that you can reach under or behind the dash; it may be that you can reconnect the circuits and this will point to where the problem lies. Make sure that nothing is getting dangerously hot, especially things like the choke cable if the engine is earthing through this due to nowhere else to go.

Merely a gimmick, Rabbit… no real intention of fitting them!

He rebuilt my GT6 diff two years ago and it was a lovely job. However as Clive says he can only work with the bits that he gets, so terminal wear in the CWP can be helped by proper settings to eke out a few more years on the road, but can’t be removed completely if the parts are too badly worn. With regards to the preload setting I’ve seen some supposedly reconditioned ones that were almost impossible to turn by hand.

Direct as regards vibration too… no rubber sandwich in the joint. I had one a few years ago but got rid of it fairly quickly; all of the road noise came straight to my hands.

I like the caption about a ‘thirty year old car using the benefits of modern technology”... Sounds a bit like some of the new cars on the market these days….

I knew a fisherman who was hard of herring… However: I’ve been debating doing this for a while, although I’ll see how the new LED bulbs perform in case the improved light is a better warning than before and I don’t need a beeper. I’ve already purchased beeper bulbs from Around-A-Pound (for £2????) that fit in the reversing light sockets and give an audible warning when reversing, to warn pedestrians. No idea how they sound so far, but they’re sitting on the bench waving to me… tempting me… go on.. I also saw, very recently, bulbs for the front fog lamps that emit a sound audible only to animals that will make them get off the road as you approach. “What’s that noise?” “No idea, I was watching that Triumph coming towards us…" Bump.

Pesky little beggars, aren’t they?

If, by any chance, you find anything incorrect - wires too long or too short, for example - let the seller know. I found the driver’s door courtesy wire on a Herald loom was about four feet too long, and notified the manufacturer with the correct length. He was very grateful as no-one had done that before, he had sold more than a few with the same dimensions, and no-one had ever told him he was using too much cable...

Never saw a mobile phone with twin headlights before… No Instructions or tools are provided for this listing.This is NOT an easy job for someone who has no technical skills with Disassembling or Assembling Cellphones/mobile phones So only purchase this item if you know how to install it.We will not be held responsible for any damages to your cellphone/mobile phone that you may cause during the changing of replacement parts.

Hmmm… just as easy to say that a faulty electrical pump can leak fuel unseen into the boot, with the added risk of a spark…