Colin Lindsay

'Dished outwards over the mounting plate'... so if the mounting plate is behind, it should be 'dished inwards'. Back to the workbench. It will be interesting to see how it relates to the disc, once fitted. Thanks for keeping an eye on me!

Well, that chart confirms my WH box as Dolomite 1850 with J-type.

That must make it the oldest Vitesse on record...

I've got as far as a trial assembly of the uprights and think that, thanks to the help on here, I've got them in the correct orientation. One thing I noticed, when it came to fitting the rubber seal between the upright and the adaptor plate - I have two different plates. On the front face they have an indentation for the oil seal, but on the rear, one has an indent for the rubber seal, and the other doesn't. The one that doesn't is marked Stanpart, to the left below, and is thinner with extra metal around the mounting holes; the others - and thankfully I have two - are the same heavy thickness all round, but not marked with any kind of part number or manufacturer's mark. I have a pair of those, but only one of the Stanpart versions. I think I'll use the matched pair of heavier versions, shown on the left below, lighter one to the right. I have no way of dating them, so I don't know if the seal was thought necessary at first, then the mounts were remade with no seal required, or was it the other way round, and a seal was later found to be necessary? In any case the replacement seals are just a large o-ring, different to the original flat profile, and therefore totally useless as they leave gaps when fitted. I think I'll have to make my own. (By the way don't worry about the threads in the photo, the bolts are only a mockup and so not tightened fully yet.)

I found the photos of one I mentioned a while back, where every single seam on the car had been filled in and the entire body coated in some kind of resin like a boat. Sills, treadplates, rear valences, no seams just a flat surface. Even the overriders were painted white. Bet it never rusted, but must be a nightmare to repair...

I don't know if you need to fully remove it but I'd loosen the bolts to let it slide. It should make gap adjustment easier if you're not fighting against the rigidity of the roof.

Probably a smaller reservoir, which would not hold sufficient fluid for disc brakes. You need the MC extension, or a larger master cylinder which has the same bore but greater fluid capacity.

That's how the accident repair places make most of their money; charging Insurance Companies massively inflated prices to repair cars. My daughter's 107 was written off, not because of minor damage to the front bumper, but because the airbags had deployed and the cost of a brand new bumper and a brand new dashboard, with airbags, was too great. The new buyer fitted a second-hand dash and a replacement front bumper from a scrapped 107 and it's still on the road not far from us. Accident Repair facilities don't use second-hand parts due to the risks involved, but a private buyer can, at vastly reduced cost.

It's been argued many times... in fact the originality of our cars has been so derided by many modifiers I wonder why we're not all dead many times over.

There's a couple of 4.55 diffs on eBay at present... wonder how those would perform with an O/D conversion?

No matter how much damage I've done to myself over the years, cuts bruises and breakages, scars and holes to prove it, nothing gives me more grief than the absolutely tiny thorn in my fourth finger that tormented me all night. Couldn't see it at all, every time I moved my finger it caught against something and was sooo annoying. Dug it out this morning with a pin so the thorn is gone but the finger still hurts.

I'd second that; I bought mine second-hand off the small-ads in 2001 and it's been running perfectly ever since. Just use your head; a used gearbox at £50 might be good, might not, it's a gamble sometimes but a clean-looking version at £200 is a better bet. Last Spit box I bought was from Chic Doig, single-rail with J-type overdrive, so he may be worth a call; at least there you've got some form of comeback if it's not good.

There are two different part numbers for the mounting bracket on single line brakes (146413) and tandem (148156) but they look identical, so I'm not 100% sure of what the difference actually is. Some mountings have a strengthening bar that runs across the rear but I've seen it on all different models, so that's no indication of the correct version, and some also sit at a slightly different angle, but no doubt those in the know will be along shortly to confirm. Don't forget you'll have to put a large dimple in the bulkhead to take the new assembly.

Leacys are also selling them for £34, thats with VAT added already http://www.leacyclassics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=155495&cat=

No, but now I know how to ski. Everytime I walk in a puddle my leg fills up with water.

Canleys are listing the MK2 washer wiper as available to order, part number 155495 for £40.

You certainly remember to be more careful! I was working on a garden extension and removed the old D-rail fencing off the posts, then stepped back and got two four inch nails through the sole of my foot. I felt every inch of them going in. I flapped about like a one-legged skier until it dropped off then made it to the kitchen, where I stood against the worktop, unable to move any further, with one foot raised off the floor. The wife arrived a few hours later to find me still standing there in huge pool of blood, and all I could do was smile and say: I think I've hurt myself...

Threaded section looks to be the same length; it's the thickness that differs, but the thinner Spit version can be bulked out to fit a larger hole by using a rubber grommet. Can't think of why, unless the terminals are in a different order - are they marked in any way, or can you test them?

Same as the Holden version, then - if you look closely you can see the threads where the bellows would have been, with the small on/off switch screwed in. Same as the top pic I posted but without the bellows... BTW Pete your photos haven't been loading recently, unless you're deliberately posting pics of small blue question marks?

https://www.holden.co.uk/p/triumph-tr6-switch-1 The Holden version is quite nice, especially if you did want to add a sneaky little electric pump somewhere along the system.

The closest I've been able to find is actually in the USA, picture below. How does that compare with the original? Holden sell a similar version but with a push-system with two terminals for an electric pump. This one below appears different to the Spitfire version I've just looked at: Haven't found any genuine GT6 versions yet.

Definitely impressive! But: you're sure the movement that would be provided by the lower trunnion pivoting on the original bush and bolt setup isn't required?

I managed to find an old magazine with "20 tips for the Triumph Herald", No11 of which reads: "On the latest models the exhaust bracket has been deleted altogether as it has been found that this reduces any engine vibrations being transmitted to the body. The brackets will have to be cut off the pipe otherwise rattles will develop." So: I thought mine was possibly an early support deleted in later models, but then found a photo of the bracket the article refers to, which is just a strap that runs across the chassis between the two outriggers and appears welded to the exhaust in the centre. No clues as to how it was attached to the chassis, though. Back to the drawing board, then...

Yikes! That speaks for itself, but is sadly typical of the 'aye sure it'll do' attitude many adopt these days.

Not in a million years, he's a former boxer. Like criminals, though, many of the cars he comes into possession of don't have the keys. He also smashes up cars but that doesn't make him a vandal neither.