PeteH

Hi. Finally got the Hub off. the Mk3 puller worked!, (5" weldable pipe flange, 2-1/2" Galvanised Pipe 1" BSW Threaded stud with 2 nuts, and a lot of rather scruffy weld!), with the judicious use of the 7lb hammer!. (Mks 1 and 2 failed, But I have to admit my welding was not of the best!.) I had to Modify a bearing puller to remove the Trunnion, but the surfaces look as if they will take a new Needle roller. Hopefully the last damaged threads on the shaft can be recovered. Does anyone know what the thread form/dia actually is. I am thinking about 15/16 A-F?.

Hi. Finally got the Hub off. the Mk3 puller worked!, (5" weldable pipe flange, 2-1/2" Galvanised Pipe 1" BSW Threaded stud with 2 nuts, and a lot of rather scruffy weld!), with the judicious use of the 7lb hammer!. (Mks 1 and 2 failed, But I have to admit my welding was not of the best!.) I had to Modify a bearing puller to remove the Trunnion, but the surfaces look as if they will take a new Needle roller. Hopefully the last damaged threads on the shaft can be recovered. Does anyone know what the thread form/dia actually is. I am thinking about 15/16 A-F?.

Hi Thanks for the info, I have most of the Bit`s I need kicking about in the garage I am sure. Hopefully some welding and a bit of Lathe work will produce a satisfactory Answer. Once removed a light skim should true the hub back up. Cheers Pete

Hi Can I "Bump" this thread, I am into a full refurb of a `71 Herald 13/60. And have come across the same issue, the Hub is resisting ALL attempts at removal including a 10t press and heat!. The end result is that I too can see distortion in the flange. I need the hub off to refurb the damaged parts (Backplate and grease retainer). Has anyone local to HULL. got access to the type of puller required. OR anyone got a Photo(s) of the Puller?. I have access to welding and machining kit and may be able to fabricate something that will work. IF I know what I am looking at?. Cheers Pete

Hi When trying to remove the rear axle I discovered that the First (lowest) spring leaf is fastened, (Stud) to the top of the diff housing. this is not shown in the Haynes manual. NOR as shown on the Canley suspension (plate1). Can anyone throw light on this?. Pete

HI Thanks all. Rear tub now lifted clear, (well by 4inches!). Just waiting for a couple of Buddies (Drinking Variety!) to give me a lift off so I can get at a few dodgy spots on both the Chassis and tub. Leaving the front (tub) in place for the time being, Storage space is now at a premium even in a double width garage!. Cheers. Pete

OK 2 at the top of diff Hump, I did suspect where body securing. The outrigger ends under the boot dont exist!. (part of the reason why I want he Rear tub off!) The Join under the seats have been removed for some repair sections to be inserted, and a new floor pan. Thanks for that, I will have a look again later. At this point I am not taking the front tub off (Yet). Pete

Hi. Herald 13/60 repairs. Got to the point this afternoon, where I had the Mount bolts each side removed, However the Body will only lift a few Millimetres, So I have been looking here for answers. What I think is happening is there must be at least 2 more Bolted joins either In the Floor pan or the boot. I have seen here that the GT6? has bolts at the top of the Rear axle / spring "Hump" and there are two bolts under the rubber bungs in the boot?. Are there any other Bolts?. Thanks Pete

Hi. MY thoughts are that the Gauge (40+yrs old) needs recalibrating!. I expected about 130 to 160 psi. The engine is on the bench and the test(s) performed using a freshly charged battery, plugs out, first run "as is" second run with oil in the cylinders, I suspect the "low" reading may be due to valve leakage rather than rings. I plan now to have the head off anyway, mainly to check if the head has been converted to "unleaded" status. at which time I will have a look at the bores. I have a 12/50 manual, which shows the Compression pressure as circa 136psi. But I was looking for the 13/60 figures. which would /could be different?. Pete

Hi Quick one here. What should the compression pressure be when tested with a gauge? My old Gunson Gauge is showing 1) 235psi 2)215psi 3)230psi 4)230psi. These seem somewhat high? but are within a 10% tolerance. Pete

HI A query? What is the "Actual" difference between an O-E and a courier Spring? Number of Leaves? Thickness? Curvature? . Pete

Hi VERY, Interestink. Think it could be done on a Herald 12/60?. AND the $64,000. question does it need an Electronic box of tricks to function properly?. I currently run an old Fiat Punto with Electric PAS, and that needs to be "set up" electronically after a Steering Change. Pete

Hi To be fair, when I saw it, I thought it looked like a 90`s BMW colour?. And either someone is very proficient with Polish OR some depth of lacquer?. I would love to know it`s origins? And Clive could be right. sapphire blue? might be close. depending of the light available when the photo was taken, and with a nice depth of lacquer??????. Pete

Hi Question someone might know. The colour of the 13/60? on the front cover of the latest "Courier" magazine. I quite like it. and as I have to do a full re-paint anyway, I might just go that route. Any Idea`s. Pete

Hi Ok so Courier Van Spring. Does that make the ride more harsh?. Rear shocks listed as NLA. What`s the alternative, I have used Gas Shocks in the past (on other Marques)? Pete

Hi I assume, the Primary Cable is unchanged?. Could this be the issue?. Wear in the Pins/Holes and the Counter shaft? Pete

Hi Can you confirm:- "Simple solution to your "problem" would be a courier rear spring with 1" spacer block,". By Courier Spring, Is that a new rear spring OR one from the Van?. (ie possibly stiffer or??) Pete P.s. Thanks for the response it has been quite enlightening. P

Hi Seen some Discussion about the fitting of C-V type joints to other cars (Mostly Vittesse and GT6 etc). Which raises a question?. I have a "kit of parts" for a 13/60 Herald which I am about to start "work" on. Remembering the issue I had with a Mk1 Vitesse, back in the 80`s which had a tendency to hop and skip when used solo. ( I habitually kept a bag of Sand in the boot!) I was wondering IF it would be possible to retrofit C-V jointed rear drive shafts?. If Yes, what and where to acquire them. If No Why?. Any suggestions? Pete

Hi I`m new around here, having just bought a kit of parts that will one day emerge as a 13/60 convertible!, as part of my "retirement" project. My experience of Silicone fluid goes back to 1987, when I rebuilt the brakes on a 2L Mk1 Vittesse. The rebuild included new copper/nickel pipework and ALL the seals, which was the advice I was given. It ran as daily for my wife on short commutes for 3 more year until we sold it. without any issues. I suspect that said Herald will get the same treatment in the braking dept; Allied to the conversion to MX5 seats, and some updating of the electrical system, New guts for the Radiator and Heater too I suspect. BUT first I have to finish the decorating!!!. Pete