Adrian

Evening chaps, started to sort the accelerator cable play with a solderless nipple (separate thread). Was very disappointed when on startup the engine was not ticking over smoothly at all and seemed to splutter and eventually die. This was with choke and whilst fiddling with the amount of choke at a certain point the engine raced to over 3000 revs. Now other than adjusting the throttle linkage to remove play I haven’t messed with any other settings from last year. My gut is it has something to do with choke but inexperience means it is only a guess? Any advice please? thanks Adrian 04177B84-6C99-4568-B66A-6E5538DD6706.MOV

I replaced my drivers side and covered it in an earlier thread couple of years ago. Didn’t have too much trouble, the key I found is a tourniquet allows gradual pressure to be applied and got it fully seated in the channel. Adrian

My rewire used the same box as Aiden and went to carbuildersolutions for the cables using amperage rated cables rather than size thus removing any ambiguity. Fleebay headlight relay mounted behind the headlight. Worst problem was stripping out superfluous wiring and working out PO wiring errors i.e. permanent live to the heater fan.

Thanks Pete, a whole new gadget box to put together. Will search out the bike shop!

Forgive my ignorance but do you mean cut to size and solder a blob on the end to suit?

I got the cable (156353) from Paddocks 2 years ago, probably not worth sending it back, but I notice that different suppliers seem to present different configurations all purportedly for a gt6. Moss and ANG seem to have the bracket, rimmers and paddocks don’t although I note the spitfire 1500 cable does (156342). Canley doesn’t seem to show it either. Confusing. im guessing I’ve got to loosen the linkage to rotate it to remove the play but I’ve got to try to find a compatible cable first. Where would/have you gone?

Evening chaps going over the gt6 I noticed there was play in the cable. Wanting to make sure I don’t repeat P.O. mistakes I thought I’d ask you. The video shows the play in the linkage is this something that can be adjusted? The previous cable had a bracket (photo) but new one does not and can’t be fitted without cutting the slot on the photo. Just loosely I put the cable in a slot in the linkage but assume this is incorrect. Any words of wisdom, and being cautious of thread drift so early, about the cable. cheers Adrian 06A7D143-AF36-4A32-8FFD-5B3E1891163B.MOV

I stripped my cars with white spirit, meths wasn’t great as I think it’s too volatile and the white spirit was able to soak in better, but it did take multiple applications. I’m sure petrol could work but more hazardous to all concerned. Would be worth checking before applying, whatever you use is safe for the fibreglass, plastic or whatever it is made from.

Isn’t this just a long winded route to the ultimate conclusion that......you must keep a firm grip on you’re nuts at all times whilst ‘twiddling’! 😬

I have new plugs but was waiting to get it tuned to limit carbon fouling. I tried the gun again and it was ok on all this time. Audibly there is a very slight occasional stumble but it ticks over. Can’t take it for a run yet as need to sort an mot first. perhaps it is the spark strength / sensitivity of the pick up. on a slightly different note - the guide for a stage 1 kit says 8 degrees but I’ve seen people online do 30 odd degrees at high revs to get full advance (Stevenson’s garage, or something like that. Quite a good series of guides)

Just ran it on all 4 leads. Btw already running much better now the jet is sitting flush! It seems to be very even on 2 and 4 but jumps about a bit on 1 and 3. I do agree the gun doesn’t seem to pick up all the time as I revisited a lead and got a different result. It’s running at about 7 degrees and should be at 5 so again may contribute. As it’s not on all 4 my novice head says probably leads or cap?

I’ll try the other leads. NB it’s on the mini. I did treat the triumph to a new Lucas electronic distributor from the club shop.

Hi all Prior to the carb issue I put the timing light on cylinder 1 and got an uneven 'flash'. It's perhaps not much but wondered if it pointed to and issue with the HT leads or distributor? Not much in the way of sideways movement on the shaft. No carbon / burning on the cap - looks almost new. Or could it be associated with the mixture being too rich. Adrian PS also wondered about converting to electronic ignition - what would you do - new distributor or just but a conversion kit and if so which one? IMG_1678.MOV IMG_1693.MOV

Hi all, Birmingham Pliers applied to the offending item and seems to have worked allowing a smooth movement and removing the 'twisting' action. Sorry its upside down. I have another question but unsure how to retitle the one thread so i'll start another one. Adrian IMG_1692.MOV

Good to know. As everything is a new learning experience unless the car is brand new, who knows what the po has done and if I can spot it!

Good point but I did get it from minispares over the counter after taking the carb in

Moving on from the last fiasco. The video says it all. The jet doesn’t return to flush because the arm twists outwards. I can probably bodge it by retaining it with a zip but won’t be right. No wonder it was rich. the photos are where it needs to be the video shows where it ends up. E3A428BF-A525-46E7-8001-2518C1B8CE2A.MOV

Thanks for the support. 😀👍

OK - I am officially an absolute Idiot. Not only do I need to buy the T-shirt but I think the whole clothing chain is in order. Battery Isolator switch under the dash!!!! Doh!

There is 12.4v post to post. But nothing +ve post to earth bolt on body

Hi Colin, I haven’t stripped the ignition at all although can’t guarantee that something hasn’t come loose. Shouldn’t, Using the voltmeter from the positive battery terminal to the earth fixing result in a circuit and therefore a reading on the meter?

Afternoon chaps, yet another chapter in the saga of the Mini! Put it all together, turned the key and absolutely nothing, no lights on pod, no fan no ignition. 12.4 V across the battery terminal. Not touched the battery earth - still the pre rebuild condition which looks good and worked before. I'm not getting a flow so the first thing I thought would be earthing, tried the voltmeter (set on 20v) from +ve battery terminal to the earth strap anchor and nothing. Even though the battery was charged and the condition indicator says OK could it be the battery has died over the last 6 moths whilst disconnected and just doesn't want to give up its charge? Whilst typing this I'm charging another battery for testing. This is obviously applicable to all cars and could well be a long investigative process so keen on documenting the investigative methodology for future reference. Thanks Adrian

I ordered leather seats, door cards rear wheel arch trim and any other vinyl from Owen, top man, top quality, worth the wait. Made my own boards as did badwoolf and replaced the worn out webbing using webbing from skiddaw upholstery reusing the clips adrian

I just use one copper washer on each to seal. The pedal seems a bit soft (firms up after 2 pumps) so I’ll try the method of wedging the pedal down for a period. adrian

I do really enjoy this forum - knowing that problems and double checks can be resolved without pre judging my ignorance! But unless I'm mistaken my ignorance may be the cause of the problem. So this morning I've looked at the clearance in the callipers, one measured 12.74mm and the problem one measured 12.33mm. Now the thread length is the same as Davids. I tapped the centre of the calliper with a smaller diameter bolt and the resultant measurement was 12.93mm so it moved. So from what I deduce is the hose feeds directly behind the piston and the problem piston was far enough back to make contact with the end of the hose. As I was using an eezibleed I guess the pressure was insufficient to move the piston forward. So the question of holes lining up doesn't seem to apply because there is no hole inside the calliper, just the back of the piston. Forgive the drawing - art was never my strong point. Make sense? Adrian