Adrian

Great film loved the fact that it was entirely narrated by the words of the soldiers themselves.

That’s right, no shields on poly.

My footrest is in my box of spares. Couldn’t see the point with wide feet! I would be interested if someone could give me the centre and measurements for the gearbox cutout to save stripping.

There’s also good looking herald and vitesse convertibles

I can’t really comment much one the excellent advice already given. I was in the same boat 4 years ago when I was looking for my gt6, new to triumph and if I’m honest car mechanics but exactly why I wanted one, to learn. Took months looking at what was on offer asking people in the know what they thought and finally paid for an inspection of one (think it was £75) by jigsaw. Turned out to be an honest good car but in need of some TLC and some major surgery to improve it which is exactly what I wanted. What have I learnt.......be very careful with a car that has been undersealed. It can cover up bodges, used as a filler or if old can seal in water behind it so rot out a panel. Pits all down to how hands on you want to be. good luck Adrian

The two bolts sit in a bush but clearly have seen better days. I may be wrong but the long rod sits in the pivot end of the rear radius arm. The repair kit comes with bearings so yes, but it has a grease nipple which needed to be regularly dosed, clearly a P.O. was a bit lapse in their maintanence. If the shaft is like that I’d have thought the bearings wouldn’t be much better.

Hi chaps, probably an obvious question but at what stage are bolts and pivots corroded beyond recovery. I have the rear pivot and the rear subframe bolts from the mini.

Yes noted the gasket and corrected on the rebuild. But I believe it was common practice to blank them off. The picture it the best ‘readjustment’ I can make on the car. Enough?

Here's the picture of the carbs as taken off. don't seem to see a kink. Here are the carbs after storage and prior to clean. Definitely seems to be a kink - could it just be one of the flexible joints? How to correct? Loosen push and prod until straight and tighten?

Ok so after a mornings fiddling the update appears to be a little more promising. Firstly twiddled with the idle. Then did a colour tune on 1 and 6 (I know some of you say it doesn’t work well for modern fuel but I thought I’d try). Burn yellow so indicated rich so fiddled with the carbs until under reving I got blue. I adjusted in situ then took off to see position, as per photo. I suppose the exact position depends upon the needle size as well. Ticks over a lot better. What do you think? 4A3EF81E-B8B3-4BF6-84B6-C23D8498D407.MOV

Oh no, not more issues. I only checked the needle setting. Everything else is as pre refurb

Another silly question but the books say the idle adjust is on the same side as the temp compensator, just above it. I can’t see anything that fits. Carb tags say 3432 l/r which is correct for the 150cdse. I assume the vertical screw on the throttle linkage is the throttle stop and the fast idle seems to make no contact with anything, hopefully in the 4th picture.

I work from home on Tuesdays so I could get the kettle on? Surely triumphers would like to see a gt6. Seriously though I understand it a long way home.

Before adjusting fast idle I thought id record the stalling to see if there are any tell tale issues you may identify. NB after the stall it took a lot of turning over for it to fire up again. A bit disappointed really given a brand new Lucas Dist with electronic ignition from the club shop. sorry it is recorded on edge. Thing going through mind are should I blank off the temperature compensators with the gaskets as it was before the rebuild? Keep fiddling with mixtures? Take the filter off and see if it starts better with just a pipe. Take it to a garage to sort or pay for Pete to visit? Thanks IMG_1267.MOV

I used rattle cans. As for the box section I honestly don’t know, nothing was attached prior to stripping.

Sadly I’m just starting to do the same on the underside of the mini (but it is brittle so cold scraping seems to work). word of warning watch out for too much and regular flexing of the bonnet whilst cleaning off so you don’t strain the hinges

Hi Doug I don't have the original valance brackets so was able to bend the bracket engineward slightly so that the airbox cleared top without cutting. Only have about a 1/4 inch but seems to be OK. I used a longer bolt from the radiator cowl and as you can see added nuts as spacers. You'll note I haven't drilled the holes but cable tied the air pipes to the bottom of the cowl. What size hole and what type of holesaw did you use? Cheers Adrian

I did exactly as suggested, last year. Hot air gun and scraper to remove under seal and a wash down with white spirit to dissolve the last bit from surfaces prior to prep for por 15. Then undercoated (should have used their tie coat as difficult to get the cured stuff scuffed enough on all the supports etc). Then stone chip in wheel arches only. Body colour over all and dinatrol clear wax in arches. Hate underseal - I caught it in time but it had already started to come away in places on the wheel arches and was trapping moisture. Horrible job stripping it away but the results speak for themselves. Good luck!

Hello all, just a quick one. I’ve read a number of online threads relating to the wiring and fusing of retro fitted headlamp relays. Some say have the relay close to the headlamp units, others say close to the fuse box. They seem to suggest a single 30 amp feed but others say split it to two 15 amp feeds. Typically I know any fused relay is an improvement on the original but just wondered what you thought. thanks Adrian

I’d be too easy bait as I ask so many daft questions!

Doug - I believe this section is for Non-Triumph albeit we all have Triumphs...does having had a chat at the twiddle day now make me eligible to the abuse you level at uncle Pete? Just as a point of clarity the main difference I've found is even if you don't buy from Canleys for Triumph parts their website actually tells you what size thread and length of the bolts, nuts etc at each location. The mini sites just say a bolt or a nut and a short cut to buy 2, or 3 etc for that specific application. For all I know the bulk of the nuts and bolts are 1.5" 3/8 which I could buy in bulk from a bolt supplier for a fraction of the cost. Hence hoping that the catalogue actually identifies the size and lengths needed. I'd contemplate posting on a mini website but most of those seem to be how to modify and supercharge them. Cheers Adrian

Didn’t spot the catalogue, seems exactly what I need. Thanks for the other tips on sources. Just bought the mini sport cooper front disc kit to replace the drums, yes drums on the front, no instructions, just a pile of parts. It’s going to be interesting!

Hello all Made a start on the mini this weekend and dropped the rear sub frame for a starter for 10. My question is, so far I haven't been able to track down a website (like Canleys) which states the size and type of fasteners nor eve a catalogue. Its an early 1980 Austin. I don't even know if it is metric or not, various threads seem to point towards more likely imperial AF but possibly some metric. My brake cylinder is a D type which implies diagonal braking but the pipes are front and rear split (according to Moss it seems they threw whatever was available at the time on). So does anyone have a reference source or pointers as to where to find what size fasteners go where? Mainly to avoid buying area specific packs. Thanks Adrian

I’m going to try to come along, a few things to slot into place first, particularly interested on headlight adjustment and a reminder on wheel alignment.

No Problem Dave Did the timing, engine seemed to be advanced hence the poor starting, set to approx. 12 degrees BTDC now and running a lot smoother (probably knocked distributor after first start up). Still a bit uneven at idle even though revs are around 800. Having read some other threads I'll not pay too much heed to the carbon fouling as It's not had a decent run and even a short run is likely to cause a carbon build up. The one difference I have noticed is the front carb seems to cause a slightly wet deposit on the plug - does this mean too rich, if so is it a 1/4 turn anti clockwise using the adjuster tool? The carbs were balanced and tuned by Jigsaw in 2014 before I bought it (as they are racing focussed, perhaps they like it rich!). I was going to look at the idle adjusters but given the revs I don't think it would help. Checked the piston and it does seat on the base (its a natural gap from the taper at the bottom of the chamber) they fall freely to the bottom but not a clunk. Checked compression and got 150-160 across all 6 cylinders.