Adrian

Just thinking about jobs for this year......hopefully tweaks now rather than major overhauling. one thing I’ve mentioned before is since adding a glass fuel filter it takes A LOT of cranking to get the engine to fire after it has been stood for a week or more. When I say a lot if you add the bouts of cranking it would be 45-60 seconds. It was mentioned that it could be the pump, still original mechanical. Should I bypass the filter to see if that improves. If not would it indicate the pump is on the way out. Should I disconnect the outlet and see if there is a flow so possibly indicating an issue at the carbs. rather than post 4 questions under each area hopefully you don’t mind off topic questions under one post. slight weep from the thermostat housing so will fit one of those thicker gaskets I got from the club shop. Going to try to fit the occasional rear seats. If anyone has got a template for the seat bracket that would be very helpful. might change brake fluid to silicon, do you need to wash out the system or can you just displace the old dot 4 with the silicon? thanks Adrian

Silent coat and a thin layer of dodo matting

Not even a frost here

When I did mine I cut the wishbone bolt and had it professionally drilled out and on reassembly, lots of copper slip and extra washer to take up the play from the slight loss during cutting. One of the radius arms was seized solid in the link...so I left it alone. Makes reassembly a little awkward but not insurmountable. When stripping down the bush in the leaf spring was almost non existent, all the rebuild used blue superflex. Adrian

Useful thanks. I managed to break some of the joints after cutting the pipe and using a flame so promising so far. Pete, is that Diet Coke or full fat? Based on what I’ve done so far and the fact that I’m replacing the pipes I think Dougs method works best so far. I’ll look out for the spanner though for future jobs!

Thanks all I'll check the battery, as its all being stripped i'll check the earth and clean up the solenoid connections. On another matter is there anything that can be done with seized brake pipe joints? especially in the Master Cylinder as the originals are rare. Plusgas soaking in but as its soft copper you cant use much force before rounding off. I have a new set to replace but trying to salvage the main components.

I know I can put this under electrics as it’s a universal problem but this relates to the mini. sometimes when starting I just get the dreaded click. As the engine is almost out it needs attention, so firstly is it a failing in the solenoid or failure in the actual motor. What tests could be done? Is it worth dismantling, cleaning, etc or just get a new one £60-70. any thoughts would be great.

When I did mine the blower was wired to permanent live, makes you wonder. The hazard switch was tempremental so I decided to replace and worked fine after. takes a bit of time but well worth sorting the fuse box

I take your point Doug but Colin has hit it on the head. Putting the 'smartness or possibly wilfulness' of the item aside it's the cheap imports I try to avoid, a world of difference inside the box between a licenced Chinese item than an unlicensed one. I remember buying a Jessups battery for my Cannon Camera to save £15, biggest waste of money! Like buying a cheap torque wrench that clicks....but does it click at the right setting!

Hmmm. Cynical about all the technology in modern cars, brilliant when it works, a costly nightmare when it fails. My late father gave his 56 plate micra to my daughter in 2016 with 16000 miles on the clock. Within a year the lambda sensor after the CAT caused the engine warning light to come on. Cost £200 to have it replaced and the CPU reset. What a world we live in when the protection warning devices cost more to replace than the components themselves - when will it all stop! I can't see these modern electric cars becoming survivors like our Triumphs because the technology will become outdated so quickly....but what do I know, I invested in Northern Rock!!!

I've always avoided Chinese imports. It looks good and has the functionality for modern devices. Years ago I bought a 'nintendo' for one of my girls (she wanted that specific colour). Turned out to be a Chinese import and broke within a year. This also at the time when fires were rife from overheating and exploding chargers. To be honest can't hear much in the GT6 anyway so not really thought about sound.

Not wanting to spoil the flow of the Maestro conversation, my fuel line is solid from the tank to the engine bay. Enters as a short spur over the passenger side cross member where the rubber starts.

First thought would be someone has replaced on of the boards with a DIY board. The spring retaining clips should dictate the correct thickness - I'd suggest the thicker of the two. Is it the thinner one that's bowed. Adrian

I've used Jawel, I'd say OK but compared to clubshop paint they were very low on solids (very watery). I needed some for the Mini which was Surf Blue but there are two types. I took a wheel arch to Turners Trade Paints in Cannock who said leave it with me and i'll sort it. A few days later I went back and collected a PERFECT match. As with Clive, a man mixed it by eye and took the time to wait for it to dry to ensure it dried the same colour. I won't go anywhere else now. This obviously relates to rattle cans.

Doug i think I’d like to take my chances with the fish rather than the Ms Sturgeon. But can’t deny the beauty of Scotland

Ditto Paul. It’s a weep hole. Pumps are maintenance free I think generally if it needs attention, noisy, rattle, leeking from anything other than gaskets it need replacing.

Not sure if it helps but here’s an extract from the minispares parts catalogue. Best fit is 1985-2000 era, item 7 or 9?

I’m feeling really sick. I think the garage is bigger than my garden. I’m fed up of the bruises and scratches I get from trying to move around my garage.

Agreed, the suggested mini parts book is very good but even that has a few unidentified fixings. Massive variation in prices for even the simplest component, it make you wonder if there is a real variation in quality or the suppliers are just chancing their arm.

Great discussion and have been following the spitfire saga with great interest. As always a balanced experience based commentary. So my pennies worth; cover - I only have experience of a carcoon (indoor). Fantastic, not cheap and a pain to unzip if you want a quick run, but for preserving the, car brilliant. I believe they do an outdoor model. Cost wise I’d say new wings and paint job would be way higher than the carcoon. But equally a basic cover that prevents moisture trapping (breathable) would be good in the short term. I’m in the D camp, I finished of my refurb with a dynatrol clear wax....BUT I have a pot of waxoyl which can be slapped on to keep things at bay for a while.....not a long term solution. There are expensive paints out there but perhaps the waxoyl can maintain things until your budget improves. I may be wrong but some of the electrics seem to be possibly damp influenced especially as they seem to be intermittent although wear can be equally intermittent. My fuel and temperature were wrong in my GT6 which initially pointed to the voltage stabiliser. Changed it with the usual skinned knuckles. Turned out I needed a new temp sensor and fuel sender. BUT that is the fun of these cars, not always a text book answer. At the end of the day the decision is yours as you know your budget but you will always get a good and honest opinion from the chaps on here looking forward to the ongoing thriller! Adrian

Doesn’t look like there’s any foam left in the base!

Changed mine earlier this year, 3/8 UNC both ends

I've used POR15, so was thinking belt bracers and kitchen sink. It does go on well (better than the POR15 topcoat). Nevertheless i'll stick with the POR15, primer, stone chip and topcoat!

No Colin, I was deciding whether to put the chassis black on the tub before putting primer and body colour on. Just as an extra durable layer. I can leave off and just go the stone chip, primer and body colour. Just wondered if it was over paintable.

Hi all, I’ve painted the chassis components and covered really well. Am now wanting to paint the bottom of the tub body colour but can’t find any info on overpainting chassis black. Any experience on this, should I leave the chassis black off the body tub? cheers Adrian