AidanT

Thanks Richard - That doesn't look too complex at all. Just three questions The front of the box does not seem to be held to the back plate with something that can be undone - Is it best to "Drill" these out or do they come undone from the back? In regard to the internal "Bobbins", whats the best way to remove them? Just cut them out or do the three nuts shown on picture 5 hold them in and they just need undoing to remove the bobbins? Also is it best to keep the plate earthed on terminal E? Thx Aidan

On looking again how do you get in to it ?

Hi All I'm about to convert over to an alternator I am quite happy with the wiring that needs to be done but wondered if anyone has used the old control box as a suitable connection box so in other words taking out the old internals and rewiring the terminals from inside the box. I am hoping this would then keep everything tidy and insulated. - Has anyone tried this? and if you have - Could you post a picture of the inside of the box? I will be adding another cable to take care of the addional amperage from the alternator Thx

Hi Try giving Fitchetts a call or try Paddocks - Better price plus I have not had anything of poor quality from either Paddocks also have SteelCraft ones which I am told are good

Lucky for some ! I have a standard policy on my new(ish) car that allows some business use - god knows what some means ?!? Anyway I think Agree its just the Insurance companies trying to make more Money! I'm with Peter James myself, not only was it the cheapest - It also includes commuting I think we should have an annual survey of the best insurer on (and off) the Panel with categories like price and cover, A bit of a Club "Go-Compare" if you like with categories like Price and Cover - Maybe when everyone deserts Footman James - they will have to think again..... PEOPLE POWER !! Another Benefit for the Club to Offer ?? Aidan

Hi Colin. No problem I didn't realise how captive nuts worked ! Any way got some quarter inch ones had to make the holes a little bigger but it's now back together I still don't seem to be able to get it perfectly in line with the other two sections. I may have to take the L bracket off again and do a bit of alteration Aidan

OK Pete talked with Garth, but for those interested in doing the same this is what I did The bottom brackets were adjusted to fit neatly under the hinge They were then bolts as per the instructions top bolt to the outer hinge bolt and bottom bolted to the chassis with a newly drilled hol, bolt and nylon nut Then the bracket and hinge were welded along the back edge of the hinge and the leading edge of the bracket filling in the metal previously cut away (Using a SS welding rod (Not mild steel) Weld ground down and all painted Pics:

I know this might sound silly but spend a couple of quid on fleabay buy some new hose. If it only removes one potential issue of rubber contaminants then it has to be worth it. For me both mine were dripping fuel and just changing the hose sorted the problem. Maybe I was just really lucky Aidan

Or she !

At least he will have lots of views on eBay! Agree the decimal point is in the wrong place!

Ok seems that I have the connectors the wrong way around. Some good solder joints required I think !

Hi Clive - From Darrens link it looks as if the connectors are female spades ??! (Not sure if that's the right terminology Will have a good look this evening on mine at home to check first! Aidan

Hi Some questions 1) What Car? 2) O/D or Std Gearbox? ~Not sure I can help but others might with answers to these questions

Hi About to swap mine over for the first time in possible preparation to add a Kenlowe Fan - Luckily mine already has the plug supplied above but if I have that right it looks as if I need to change over to spades on the wires? I will also run a new wire to the starter solenoid to take the amperage

Hi If the wiring is the same as mine: The fuel gauge is earthed through the sender. - Remove the green brown wire from the gauge. If its still showing "full" then there is a short on the Gauge or the gauge has a problem. If nothing showing - run a spare cable to the sender - If again its showing full its most probably the gauge that;s the problem, if it shows correctly then you have a short in the car wiring Aidan

Now back on this - What chemical clean would you recommend? Thanks

Well if I am the first to fit these to a MK1 GT^ then so be it! Engineering wise I think it best to fit the plates as flat as possible so underneath the hinge - I will grind down and fettle them a little so they look right anf fit to the profile of the hinge at the front, then cut a slot into themot get the postition right and finally weld back up to the top of the original hinge - Will post a pic once done Aidan

Colin I notice that mine isn't L shaped but Z shaped Are there captive nuts that just fit through the hole? And the size or a part number ?? Thx

Here are some pictures of the issue = basically there are two issues the lip om the hinge circa 3 mm high which the new part will have to sit on top of according to the fitting instruction and the bonnet fouling - The last picture shows the fouling issue - Even if the hinge was fitted under the bolt it would still catch One option would be to cut along the edge of the plate sliding it under the hinge and bolting it down there - this would loose the strength of the bracket but it could always be welded to the top of the hinge it would at least be flat to the surface of thew chassis. The instructions do mention packing for the second bolt but to my mid thats not a good engineering solution Please let me know any thoughts or if you have fitted these yourself I wish the instructions had better diagrams and pictures - Only other alternative is to return the kit

Hi Just purchased some of these from the club to fit my Mk1 GT6 Following the instructions, at the moment I can't see any way to fit them to the chassis where the hinge bolt is - the bracket doe not fit in to the outline of the hinge and my hinge has an upturn on the front edge - When placed where shown it also fouls the freont of bonnet under lip. Any one got pictures of how they have fitted this bracket? I'm sure my hinges are standard ! Thx

I think it was Pete Lewis who advised me about the cheap rotor arm imports - I was trying to find the thread but was unable to Mine came from a reputable company as well but I guess they just buy them in bulk rather than one at a time - The company just thanked me I don't know that they did anything about it - but I expect so as they have a good reputation - The company was H & H Ignition

ah -that's useful to know thanks FYI I didn't swap out the rotor @ 60 mph !!! it just came off at that speed!!!

Hi Yes this happened to me after I upgraded to electronic ignition and fitted the rotor arm that came with it at 60mph on a dual carriageway. Luckily it did no damage to the dizzy cap. I understand from others that there are poor quality rotor arms out there from China. Got myself some new old stock rotor arms off fleabay and its been fine since.

Hi Colin Thanks so much. That's clear to me. I just need to get hold of some new captive nuts !

Hi Can I ask why you don't want the GT6 power bulge?