Anglefire

Timing is set by ear - to be honest one reason for the rebuild/replacement is that the timing is all over the place when I use a timing light - which is either due to a crap dizzy or the pulley moving (Which is not as tight as I'd like - but the bolt is very much tight! - I think there is some end float issues amongst others!) And its fine until it gets to temperature and then driven some more so is really hot - and given I found the other day that the overflow pipe was too short into the expansion bottle so was drawing air back in rather than water when the engine cools - so I suspect the engine was then getting a bit too hot at the top occasionally. But yes, I do enjoy it and try and go out in it as much as possible - I bought it to drive and not be a show car.

I spoke to the distributor doctor today - after looking at the website - and have ordered a standard replacement dizzy for mine as a starting point because I replaced mine with one from ebay after getting issues (Which I suspect were really down to the carbs) and I am getting some issues with pinking and the like, that could be caused by a cheap chinese one - of course it could be something else, but I decided to start from a good place! I'm also probably going to get another engine and after a bit of general inspection (The one I'm going to look at has already been largely rebuilt) and replacing the oil and water pumps - which haven't been done and then swap engines over - it also has a twin exhaust and a 4-2-1 header which is almost new. I can then, at my leisure, rebuild the one in my car now and either sell it on or do another swap.

Richard, I'm used to scraped knuckles TBH - used to do a fair bit of work on my last daily driver ( 2006 Discovery 3) and that was sometimes challenging having to shove hands in places where the sun don't shine!

Oh and I have the right allen keys for the heater knobs as I recently put new ones on - same with choke cable that's new too - as is the heater cable!

I've not looked in for a few days and you guys have been busy! Perfect - just what I wanted to hear! Not sure my Dad will when I tell him that it will be a good idea! And as he's 80, I need to get it done sooner rather than later - before he gets too old to do it.

Thanks guys - all the material is of the shelf so not worried about making new from scratch - especially as I might either add or relocate some of the gauges - and there are a couple of switches that are "new" and just don't really work in the place they are. Wiring doesn't worry me, but I take the point and will be labeling and photographing everything/ as I go. As for the physical removal, is it just a case of removing the dials and switches and unscrewing the dash from the body?

Slightly hypothetical question. Is it easy to remove and refit the dash on a 1977 1500 Spitfire? The only reason I ask is that having found a template for the dash I was considering getting my Dad to make me a new one as the current one is, well actually fine as it goes, but looks like ply thats been varnished. My Dad was a woodwork master and cabinet maker in his spare time and since retirement has been doing more antique restoration - and I mentioned it to him and he has all the materials required to do a new one - with many different options for the veneer. Everything from Walnut, Elm, Oak Blackbean some are also in Burr some not!

My father restores antique furniture mostly for other people or the trade. You wouldn’t believe the statements made by some when it comes to sell them. I do recall one clock that’s listed in one of the trade books from about 5years ago (and valued at about £25k) as being totally original. My dad took about 6” out of its width to essentially make it look better.

Colour is not important- but what it is, is. Having said that it is often blue - pink is usually oat which is needed for modern alloy blocks. Should be ethylene glycol based with inhibitors for mixed metals.

Hi John sorry real name is Mark - I’ll update my signature when I get 5 ! anglefire is my forum name across all forums I use. And is actually a spelling mistake, made the first time I used it. But I’ve stuck with it for reasons long since forgotten! Thanks for the information - especially the bearing supplier. I’m only really in the planning stages as when I do pull the engine, I’d like to do things like make sure the head is lead free - I’m told it was done by the guy who rebuilt it before the last guy who I bought it from. But no proof or paperwork so I’m assuming it wasn’t. Bottom end I might just get it balanced and reground if needed and look at different pistons and rods but also look at budgets. At the end of the day if it needs a rebuild every 40/50k it’s not the end of the world as that is plenty of years use!

Thanks John, I'm more than happy with 5000rpm - my currently daily is diesel so tends to live at less than 3000 - actually a lot less unless booting it (its a 3tr BMW so has lots of power and torque!)

Thanks Pete and Clive - as I say, I'm not after a racing engine or even upping the power particularly. I would like to strengthen the bottom end - if that is actually possible? I'm guessing not particularly. Vandervell were the bearing of choice when a friend of mine built a 2ltr pinto for rallying as alternative bearings failed after about 3 events (Spectacularly the first time!) 3 times until he put the Vandervells in and were find after 6 events. So, if not Vandervell, what other makes are recommended? I have seen someone fitting an extra thrust bearing by machining the cap to suit - but keep some material for retaining the extra and existing bearings.

At some point in the nearish future, I will be stripping and rebuilding my Spitfire's engine. It's currently (As far as I know) standard - though is from a Dolly 1500! I don't want to build a racing engine, but would like to do some sensible upgrades to improve reliability and drivability. Whilst I don't have a bottomless budget, I would rather spend a few quid more now and not regret it later! I would like to fit a sports exhaust at the same time too. I've read that a Newmans mildroad cam is a good option, and payan gaskets are the best, but what bearings and rings? TIA