Anglefire
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Everything posted by Anglefire
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But you are correct in that they are listed as different lengths!
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I’m pretty sure my bolts on my 1500spitfire are the same length.
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Flux to clean everything and probably find 450 for a second or so is better than 350 for several. ?
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Well, there’s lucky. Hole is in the correct position on mine. ? I’m all for repairing stuff when you can, but sometimes the cost to replace with new makes it not effective. Unless you already have the gear to do it or want to do it for other reasons.
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Don't know what rating your iron is, but I would guess it needs a fair bit otherwise all the heat will be sinking into the main body before the wire is hot enough to solder. I'd probably use a 100W job to get in, get it hot and get out again.
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Glad I looked at the pump rebuild article - I remember reading about the hole in the pump and it should be at the bottom, but didn't check when I put mine in the other day - so something to check this evening!
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Apparently he didn't plan to do it - but was taking record shots as he went and then realised he could make the video. Been around for some time, but always nice to see
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My old daily was a Land Rover Discovery 3 - and it was a total waste of time going for anything other than Denso. Most died with hours seemingly - usually taking out the battery too..
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Yes. The common thing seems to be to chop a screwdriver. But I don’t have one I want to chop - or at least not one big enough to be of use We have both of those local to us so will have a look and see what is cheap. spinning backwards is right I’d love to do it whilst it’s on the stand - but that is a bit daft as it would all drain out before it went in the car and I would have a sump full of oil to also worry about.
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Got a new water pump and fitted that this evening - the old one was probably "ok" but was slightly rough when compared to the new one. Also fitted a new temperature sender - slightly longer than the one I took out - but does now actually sit in the water flow rather that sort of sitting in the shadow of the casting - which from my controls background is a more responsive position. Fitted a new thermostat and adjusted the tappets - all were just a little tight - in so far as I couldn't get a 10thou feeler in - but all ok now. Actually, what I may do is get my dial gauge on the case and see if that makes a difference. Shouldn't do if the rockets are nice and flat (And to be fair they do feel ok) Got a new oil switch to go in - but I also have a oil pressure gauge to go in when it arrives - and the engine is in - I've already got a tee piece to allow both the gauge and switch to be fitted. Got a new clutch to go on when the engine is out - but got to swap the flywheels over - my flywheel is from a Dolly 1500 so slightly different size and the starter is therefore different. Also got a new dizzy (well refurbished) to go in when its fitted - but no point fitting it yet as I want to prime the oil before I start it. Just got to find a suitable blade - or something to drive the pump with.
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There are a significant number of Landrover Engines going bang around the cam belt change time (Just after as a rule) which is due to weak oil pumps - the cam belt pulley is fixed to the pump and it cracks after a second belt is fitted - many now routinely replace the oil pump with the later designed one. Not to mention the others that have busted cranks after the bearings spin and block the oilways. The above are actually significant numbers, but a small % of those made - but when a new/reman engine is only available from LR for about £4k plus fitting - and that's using your old ancillaries - it does write off a lot of cars (To be fair a lot of Jags are being bought to donate the engine into a Discovery I mention this purely from the perspective that moderns tend to be more highly tuned and engineered and result in thinner margins of error.
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Try Newmans Cams?
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New member with a second Triumph !
Anglefire replied to Tricky's topic in I thought I'd introduce myself
Don't forget David Manners - a Jag specialist originally, but do have a good supply of parts. I have bought stuff from Rimmers (Found them ok on quality and price) , Moss, Canley Classics and the club shop and the odd bit off ebay. -
Funnily enough, I read it in a James Bond novel, where the intro said everything in 007's arsenal was available off the shelf, which included the car (A Saab as it happens)
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The Saab’s used to be able to run with either no dash lights or just rev counter from memory.
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I took my stat out the other day and there was a little bit of rust - I was concerned about it until I saw this. ?
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Actually it does sort of make sense. If it was the other way around, if you turn the dash lights on, you might forget to turn the headlights on in town for example. The other way around, when you can't see what speed you are doing, you can then turn on the dash lights. Or can do it like most other cars and they both come on at the same time! Though to be fair, my BMW goes from white dash lights to red when the ambient light is low enough - the headlights often been on before it decides that its dark enough for a red dash! (Rain being the obvious reason for the lights to be on!)
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Doug - you are not alone.
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I know what you mean Clive. My intention is for the drive to be part of the reason for going - so keep off the motorways where ever possible. Having said that, I’d like to do a foreign tour one day and that would have to be at least motorway this side of the water! but that is not going to happen anytime soon I suspect.
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Karl, I had two Beetles in my late teens/early 20's and the only issue I had occasionally was the fuel refusing to vapourise - the carb heater (as you know, basically a hollow tube to take hot exhaust gasses to the carb) blocked up and no heat got to the carb and when it was very cold and/or damp it would run rough and stall occasionally. Had a similar problem with a 1.3 Nova SR - but that was due to the exhaust being off the Sport and had no carb heating- so could drive down the motorway for 30miles, pull off and it stall as the carb froze!
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True Clive, but I don't (Currently!) do any nav events, just planning on some weekends away next year without the kids (Well 17 & 19 so no longer kids!) and they will be shortish runs. Once i get the new engine in, I'll see how it runs - its been fine this year running a few times to Warwick castle down the local roads (mostly because we have Merlin passes so get in and parked for free, and I indulge my other (well one of them!) passions, which is photography
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I’m going to review the oil cooler once it’s all back in and running I think. I don’t tend to go on motorways in it as it’s not pleasurable- particularly round here on the M42/M6/M5. But I intend to drive it reasonably spiritedly.
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Thanks Roger, if I fit one, then I would fit one with a thermostat as that does makes sense on a road car. i might leave it for now and see how it goes - though I think a oil pressure and or temperature gauge might be useful. But what sort. Some seem to be ruddy expensive. ?
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Sump is back on and I'm now thinking of swapping it with the one in my car currently. First though I want to make sure I get everything I need (want!) I've got new engine mounts and bolts. I am going to get a new clutch - best place to get one from? Club shop does a Borg and Beck 3 part for £97 - Rimmers OEM Spec is £118 and an alternative spec is £89. Other places do them for around £80 or so - I'd rather spend a bit more and get a good one - so am thinking Club shop? Did take out the thermostat and will check it but for a few quid probably replace that too. What about things like oil pressure switch and water temp sender? And finally, possibly the big one -though it can be fitted later is an oil cooler? It's a pretty much standard engine (will just have a sport exhaust on) - but reading lots the posts the oil seems marginal and to keep the temperature down is a good idea?
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I’m with Premium choice for mine. Pretty much standard Spitfire 1500 garaged 3000miles pa and is less than £150 including European brakedown cover for any car I’m in. In fact the breakdown cover is more than the car cover.
