Anglefire
-
Posts
3,091 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
33
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Everything posted by Anglefire
-
Popped out and got the exhaust hanging better now - though it does seem to be about 1/2" too far to the left as you look at it - but if I move it over, the center pipe down the middle of the car becomes too close to the chassis rails - its pretty much bang down the middle at the moment. I also removed the 3 studs out of the old engine to fit in the new one - came out ok and are in good nick - fitted with washers and new nuts and at least those are done up.
-
Assuming you have the correct coil (such as one from 123 or a sports coil) I would say you needn't worry about a resistive wire loom. The only caveat I would add though, is that if you can switch the 123 back to points in the event of a electronic failure, then I would get the resistive loom, bridge out the resistor such a way that you can reinstate it quickly when if you need to swap back to points.
-
My excuse is that I remembered the context it was written - and 17/18 is not a common imperial fraction Yeah I think it is - especially for the £200 is cost me, including the manifold. Not heard it yet, but it does have a mid through silencer so hopefully won't be too loud!
-
Oh cricky I’ve just got it
-
Nope. Mostly imperial. Though use metric when I need to. Anyway took a couple of pictures of the exhaust. They do need just lining up now I’ve looked again. Something to perhaps do in the morning.
-
Fitted the new exhaust today - it will no doubt need some feltling once its all running, but is good enough for now. Before finally fitting the two tips I had repainted underneath the boot floor as it was fully exposed with Buzzwelds CIO. Nice and solid, but a bit of surface rust under some of the underseal - I'd stripped that off yesterday and applied some rust converter from Buzzweld. Not really used the Buzzweld paints before, but have to say I do like it - the CIO dried in just a few minutes and as it was only about 10'C very acceptable. Also re-checked the cam timing - couldn't do it accurately enough with the rockers on - so whipped them off and did it directly on the end of the push rod - lift was 251thou - so spot on and at TDC was just shy of 30thou - about 1/2deg out I reckon - which is close enough given the available adjustment on the timing wheel - which only has two options and not 4 (You can't swap the duplex gear around, only rotate to different holes.) Then refitted the rockers and set the gap to the Newmans imperial datum. Refitted the rocker and breather pipes and the throttle and choke cables. Can't much more now until I get the radiator frame and fuel pump etc.
-
I had a Land Rover Discovery 3 for 7 years and 174k miles - but did the majority of the work myself - and had a proper diagnostic tool that could also do some enabling of things that LR didn't! Was something like £460 to buy - but paid for itself and got £350 back when I sold it on! My BMW I might do some of the work - I'll see when the time comes and how much it will cost to get it done - brakes it claims won't need doing on the front for about 26k and the back 70k. And some makes are better at letting the generic readers work - VW is good and I think all pretty much open, Ford and JLR are locked to the minimum they have to show. I have one for the BMW and it can do quite a few things - but not everything - but it was only £100 or so.
-
And the cost/time/ease of doing an overhaul isn't massive - catch it early and the crank etc should last many years - modern engines are just so expensive to replace - I reckon you could swap a spitty engine out in a day (assuming you have a spare to drop in) - Would take a day to disconnect and reconnect the electrics in a modern!
-
Going back to this slightly - only because I've been watching video's on degreeing your Cam! - well it was that or watch 50 shades.... Anyway, I've sussed the gap - but what was confusing me is the metric conversion - I think it's wrong! Based on the lift @TDC being 0.030" or 0.075mm then that is a factor of 10 out - 30thou is actually 0.752mm 14thou is actually 0.356mm, not 0.300mm The valve lift conversion is correct though - 0.375" is 9.525mm and 0.250" is 6.35mm It's also interesting that the TR6 conversion looks to be more correct.
-
the start of a extreme late MK4 Spitfire restoration
Anglefire replied to Dam's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
I hope you learnt a lot about panel beating at Coventry Museum as I can't see a straight panel on it! The bonnet modification looks interesting - wonder if they fitted a straight 6 in at some time? Oh and welcome to the forum and good luck - will be good to see the progress! -
Had an hour in the garage - too cold really. But I have inspected the radiator frame - and whilst at a push it could be used, it is going rotten in the one corner - behind where the expansion bottle sits - which is also where the old rad fins are particularly missing! And looked at the exhaust and need the exhaust clips to fit it. And the fuel pump is knackered so either needs new guts or just a new one. And a few other odds and sods. So, I'll get a list of parts I need and then see where to get them from. I do know the rad frame is out of stock everywhere - with David Manners the only one quoting a time to obtain - 4 days but they don't open until 2nd Jan So I've filled the boot of the BM with rubbish (Mostly boxes!) and will go to the tip later. Or tomorrow.
-
That's pretty good Pete - most of the suppliers I use are closed until 2nd Jan - and the one bit I need to get the rad in is out of stock
-
Should be able to get a few hours in tomorrow. Would like to get the rad in or at least a plan. The u frame is a little tatty but might be serviceable after a coat of paint. And the exhaust on would be good.
-
Funnily enough, its name is owned by Mastercard. http://www.accesscreditcard.info/index.aspx
-
Don't have noisy neighbours - but ones down the street can't park - must have lost the use of their legs as they park across the road from each other leaving just enough gap to get a car down - luckily no fire engines have been needed down our end of the cul-de-sac............... Yet.
-
Well, given that a couple of inches of snow fell last night - and is now defrosting to a horrible slush, I think I'll stay in the warm today!
-
I'm in engineering and worked at my Uncles factory after I left Uni (well Poly, but they no longer exist!) and they mostly used imperial because it was considered more accurate - or at least easier to work in small numbers - they were into precision machining so worked down to a thou (sandth of an inch) routinely - but did go to microns when tolerances were very tight! I actually work in anything - but tend to use mm then inches, feet and yards/meters, miles - I don't recognised cm as they are not an official SI unit which are multiples of 1000 - and I don't care if this is actually factually incorrect
-
Metal dash ? was blue. Bought - well was given it as a bit of a reck and had to do it up before I could drive it. Welding painting though the engine was ok. I remember my red (originally white) 1302s also had a metal dash. From memory the plastic dashes were from about 1973 or 4 when the 1303 came out?
-
Had a little tinker this morning - found out yesterday we are going to my Mum and Dads for lunch today - so just spent a couple of hours removing the rear section of exhaust - despite looking like it had a mounting point unt the gearbox and forward of the rear diff, it turned out the only thing really holding it on, was the two rear hangers and the manifold. And refitting the manifolds and new water hoses - suddenly realised it would be easier and therefore more sensible to fit them before fitting the manifolds - that makes a change. Might get a bit of time in the morning to do a bit more, but we'll see. I want to enjoy what I'm doing and it not be a chore! Oh, I also found the fuel pump is leaking - had a slight leak from the plugged fuel hose, so thought I'd just pop it onto the pump - to find petrol P**g over the floor - so pulled it off and plugged the pipe a bit better and it stopped. Seems to be leaking from the flange of the two halves so looks like some more bits to get!
-
Well, that I'm afraid might include me - I might be only 52 (well till April!) but I still use imperial measurements - remember them vividly though technically when I was at school we were mostly taught metric- but my father used imperial at home (he was a teacher so had later in his career to use metric with the kids - he taught Wood, metalwork and TD) - and my first car was a 1967 VW Beetle 1200
-
Gone to the next phase now. Took the old engine out this morning and put the rebuilt one back in this afternoon. Couple of minor issued discovered along the way - the three studs on the top of the engine weren't fitted - my mistake should have noticed, but should go in easily enough. Not all bell housing bolts are in - need to get some more as some are not in good nick whilst some are virtually new! Must admit I've changed quite a few bolts/nuts along the way and pretty much always changed them all in the "set" - So I'll get some more later - unless I can find some suitable ones in my spares boxes. A couple of the nuts were too short too - only holding on with a few threads. Got to remove the rest of the old exhaust before refitting the manifolds (again!) - get some suitable antifreeze and replace the remaining rubber hoses. Fit the new radiator - glad I bought a new one already as it is a bit knackered with a few sections of fins missing. Not allowed to do any more on it tomorrow - but Tuesday is a very likely day to play
-
There is an interesting article on Canley Classics website about cooling issues and electric fans. Actually the best fan IMHO is a viscous coupled one - almost no power loss when cold and warming up, and progressively engages as the heat rises.
-
You could well be right John, as I did a quick search after I posted and couldn't find it - it was some time ago that I read it, not even sure of the source - I do think the early radars brought down birds flying through the path of the beam - but I suspect that might be an urban myth too!
-
Thats very useful - Thanks Roger
-
Thanks Roger - buggered if I can find it - but glad that I’m also not going mad (well I might be!) and that it does exist. And that the torque setting for at least the 1500 is “correct” Pete the nuts look a bit longer than normal ones and are black - but being under the rocker cover and subject to hot oil, doesn’t mean a lot! I wondered if the head nuts would fit, though I thought I’d tried one of the old ones and it didn’t spin on - but not saying it’s not the same.
