Anglefire
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Everything posted by Anglefire
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I went to Wolfsburg when I was about 18 or 19 and went around the factory - watching them set the timing was interesting! Fire up the engine with the dizzy very loose, waggle it around until the machine that was plugged in said it was correct - then wheel spin it off the line!
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Cam arrived today...
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Just reading up on the Newman’s site about fitting the cam - and when first starting it says you don’t have to rev the engine and just drive it normally as you would for a new engine for the first 100miles or so. http://www.newman-cams.com/camshaft-fitting/
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Also just found this via good old google. http://www.triumphworks.co.uk/the-last-car-at-canley/ Which you may have already turned up!
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I've copied the link to the production line picture as I think it looks better this way !
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Well. My new radiator and duplex timing chain came today from Canley Classics. Rad I decided to replace the other day after giving it some thought that the existing one doesn’t look fantastic. Came in a massive box full of other boxes for packing. Puts amazon to shame. Not sure when the cam will come as they have to grind it - but hopefully before Christmas as I’m hoping to do the swap whilst I’m off. Weather permitting. Also ordered the gaskets which should come this week and some cam lube. Mind you searching for that came up with some interesting results
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Some links on here http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,715822 may or may not be any good for you?
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Need a new patio as it happens.........
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Well, after a bit of rattling in the pockets of my trousers, I've decided to replace the cam. And go duplex timing chain. Partly I'd looked at the head gasket and its the silver type - which everywhere you read suggests they don't last. So got a Payne (Spelling?) one coming. Went for the Newman PH1 new cam - and followers. It will suit my driving and the engine better I think as the power is lower down - 1500-6000 - the fast road is 2000-6500 which is a bit too high for me. Decided to go duplex as I might as well whilst the thing is in bits. Must tell the wife.......
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This is an interesting article too. http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/spitfire_cam_specs.htm
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I can answer my own question. You can’t.
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Thanks Pete, I’ve been reading up on the procedure and seems that you have to vary the revs up and down, to about 2500rpm. So without removing the head how do you change the followers?
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Just looked at amazon, and they do this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/VonHaus-Electric-Impact-Wrench-Driver/dp/B06XKLYQZW/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1512933665&sr=8-2&keywords=impact+guns&refinements=p_76%3A419158031 I know its mains and not rechargable - but the battery ones are silly money! And the socket is I think one of these (Metric equivalent of the 1 13/32" ) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00D2XKQIS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 Even has triumph on it will be ok.
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So they are bad enough then Pete? I was going to whip the rockers off, put the rocker cover back on and turn it upside down - I assume the followers will then just fall out. Impact driver. Ah, another essential tool to buy then - Any recommendations! Will go for a Newmans road cam I think - the PH1 cam looks to be very similar to the Mk3 cam, but still drivable. I know Canley do a reground cam for the 1500 but as per the mk3 profile, but I'd rather go for a new blank I think.
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I was a bit bored this afternoon, so popped into the garage and using my dial gauge measured the cam lift of the 8 valves. Now, I’m sure I have some variance from the location of the pin and it’s angle to the pushrod, but I got these measurements. : Going from cylinder 1: (in thou) inlet 245 exhaust 224 Inlet 234 exhaust 241 inlet 241 exhaust 241 inlet 236 exhaust 226 Question is, are they bad enough to need a new cam, given they should all be 240thou. If so, how do I undo the crank bolt given the engine is on a stand with the sump on. Obviously I can take the sump off again, but would rather not. Assuming of course that I don’t need to take the head off and and pull the lifters out of the head?
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To be fair, I was thinking more when you get back in the car and forget to knock it out of gear before starting it - as the thing leaping forwards would give me a trouser moment!
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It says two available with tyres and 2 without. Personally I don't like them - but that means bugger all!
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And don't forget to take it out of gear before turning the ignition key - or your speedos could change colour
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Or, you could lift a wheel and turn that whilst in gear
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Irwin extractors are what I have used in the past - but don't expect to reuse the stud/bolt!
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A lot of Land Rover defenders have blankets over the front - to be fair, they are probably really wading blankets, but are also used to blank off half the rad.
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Pete, they do indeed modulate (but not linearly I suspect) - but do have a relatively long time constant. Which is absolutely fine in the return to the radiator. I would be interested to see how linear the control action is.
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Interesting article on cooling systems (Yeah its american, but the principle is the same!) http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine Basics Root Folder/Engine Cooling.html
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Yep, same ratings for the Spitfire- warm climate, temperate climate and cold climate. Given the stat is on the return to the radiator, the temperature of the water going back to the engine is determined by the efficiency of the radiator. (As well as ambient temperatures and water flow and load) Steady state conditions it works fine if everything is sized correctly - I'm not sure of the design conditions, but typically in my industry a 10'C delta T across a heater is normal - a car radiator probably less - I've read elsewhere about 5'C So given, the engine tends to produce more power at higher revs, the flow of water to the rad is also higher, so more heat will be dissipated and if the sizing is right, then the water will be returning back to the engine at the same temperature in all conditions. In practice it won't because there is always a lag one way or another as the thermostat takes time to open and the water takes time to get from the rad, through the engine and back to the thermostat. But it doesn't really matter as the engine has a latitude in its operating temperature. But what I wonder is why they have three ranges in the first place. Unless it is purely to cover the load taken by the heater in the winter. Even so 14'C is a big difference! (And the difference in the air/water heat exchange rate as the ambient increases)
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Not on mine it doesn't - fuel line runs at the back of the engine, and not the front. You can see what Pete mentioned here.
