DanMi

The gear selector probably needs rebushing if you are having difficulty selecting a gear, very common issue

he said 1.1 amps not 11

They don't move forward very far, so I would say that is OK. Reverse is definitely push down move left and forward

well they are buggers to get sealed so if they don't weep oil it will be a positive benefit. I would be tempted to drip some green (wicking) loctite around both tube ends to give additional sealing but I guess it will be their problem if they leak anyway!. That is a good price including the new tubes though

Why were they shot? did they acid dip the head before realising the tubes were aluminium. If they were not shot when they went in, you should not be paying for them to be replaced. There would be very little that would destroy those tubes except acid dipping, which should not be done if the component has aluminium parts

I had these repair my speedo a few years back so I'm sure that they could also recalibrate www.classicsparesengineering.co.uk

I really don't see the point in sun visors for a MK1-3. They were optional extras and the screen is so small anyway that they are not needed when the roof is on and completely pointless when it is off.

The tricky bit if converting to electronic is that the mechanical ones needle is heavy, I had one done professionally and it always slightly under read below 3000 and slightly over read above. I put it back to mechanical when I put the engine back to original so had a dizzy with the correct drive. I would just get a replacement mechanical 2nd hand.

they have not been available for years. Why were they removed? when I did my engine the shop didn't acid clean the head as they did the block due to these tubes. They are available for the early TRs (100792) but not sure if they are the same diameter/length, might be worth talking to a TR specialist. They are also a bugger to stop leaking, I made a tool from 2 sockets and a long screw, the shoulders on the sockets swaging them in then a lot of green loctite (wicking). At the end of the day they are just a length of aluminium tube, I guess no reason that steel couldn't be used (some TRs had steel according to Revington TR) https://www.revingtontr.com/product/100792/name/push-rod-tube

I also use a 063, only real difference is that the terminals will be at the back, which really is not an issue. I have the Varta which is currently £44.51 at Tayna so good value. previously had a Bosch s3001 currently £49.42 which lasted over 10 years so again a good purchase

Holy thread drift

I,ve use k seal in the past with good results https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292672808446?epid=15031984468&hash=item4424a8a5fe:g:NSkAAOSwafJeRTMy&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4A87ozpsinrl96C7FPnb9mAdduoaFUoWRf2S8CgpshSqAsidEkskNrXDPSFXFuvukZtU7YP3sl5Pn9LcHD%2F2yRUDp%2BDJVnLOlP7K5hLQhWPm%2BER0eb6d9RngRbXdEHU6C1MOrBvEqpsStdCGraEhxbSxai%2FoONmbphHt5CYPABLFQrLSy1741l98Zf3U%2FQ1%2FL3ZmA1X%2FXGsrlYwTG3vmj%2FBSq188Eumb5z09BVTEoLSerjAJPjR9RfKFFrVP%2FJF4D6PlJc6aYhvs%2FhCPLwQ7%2FyH2%2FVlR%2BmTaIX9RKSvGruyR|tkp%3ABFBMts_r9_Zg

If you have the shorter prop then it is pretty straight forward. 1360 exhaust manifold is fine, the engine mounts for all 4 cylinder small chassis Triumphs are the same so no issue there. The sump I believe will need swopping and if you use the 1300 one it may need bashing to clear the front crank big end 1500 has a "lump". The only other issue will be getting the speedo accurate, cars with 3 rail boxes changed the ratio by using differently calibrated speedos the single rail had different drive gears to give 100 turns per mile.

so long as it is the diaphragm clutch (ie Herald post about 1965) the the hydraulics and thrust are the same. As I have said, you can use the existing herald clutch and flywheel on the 1500 engine with a 3 rail gearbox.

or you change the flange on the halfshaft/propshaft

If you decide to stick with the herald gearbox (speedo will be fine and no custom propshaft) then you can use the herald clutch and flywheel, though you would have to drill the flywheel bolt holes to take the larger 7/16 ? bolts, this is what I did with my spit.

you will also need to consider the speedo as that will be out if using the single rail gearbox. Plus I would consider gearing, as the 1500 engine is a more torquey lower revving unit than the 1300/1147. I had a 1500 in my MK2 spit (also 4.11 diff) and it was under geared but ok as I have overdrive. maybe swop to a 3.63 from a spit 1500?

I would go via the club shop as it will probably be cheaper

It also depends on what the garage are costing, if they are saying it will be an extra £600 on top of removing and refitting the head that is very high, if thy are saying the total cost for head replacement and conversion will be £600 that would be a good deal.

Canleys also say built to order which probably means that they get yours rebuilt rather than exchange for an in stock unit, but cylinder heads have no serial umber anyway

TSSC club shop says £315 (member price) that will almost certainly be your head reconditioned done by Ivor Searle who have a good reputation. £600 is just way too much, there will of course be carriage. Canleys will not be a rubbish recon. That price would include a skim, clean new guides (or bronze inserts) new valves, springs and the seats sorted, all in all about £300 is a fair price plus carriage of course their price will include labour to pack your cylinder head and send it to their reconditioners, but also consider any warranty, if you supply the reconditioned parts the garage have no responsibility for warranty of those parts so if there where to be a failure you would have to pay labour to refit, this is why I do the work myself

yes the last one looks like early GT6. Rimmers are not the best for getting the parts correct, why they have one listed as dolomite, when there is no difference is anyones guess

rimmers only list 2 herald 1360 gk and then earlier, they have 4 as 2 are new and superseded by the 2 used versions. I'm not certain of the 6 cylinders

Also the early cars (spits at lest) had a vernier on the distributer so that you set the timing at TDC and then advanced a certain number of click to get the correct timing, so you didn't need the degrees, later didn't

They changed the pointer when they went from small to large crank (4 cyl), the hole is a different size so they are not interchangeable as the crank pulley is a different diameter and the crank is a different diameter so the pulleys are not interchangeable either. single pointer = early small crank