Patrick Taylor

Heralds used FS keys at that time; I'm not sure about Spitfires, but the key code should be on the barrel: FS Keys (moss-europe.co.uk)

I'm tempting fate by saying this, but I fitted Aldon Ignitor electronic ignition 25 years ago and it is still going strong, about 60 000 miles later.🤞

I think I will rely on torque, threadlock and rust: two of these have proved their worth for over 50 years' motoring so far... 😊

It is the Autodata one, but Diagram H14 on page 85...

I was thinking I might put a drop of thread lock on the new bolts. The old ones were locked in place by several years' rust, but I can see that a more technical approach might have its advantages.

Yes, that's what the diagram shows, but on the back of the hub.

My 'Autodata' handbook shows a tab washer 'plate' (or two curved strips?) on the disc-to-hub bolts. But as mine has spring washers I'm assuming the tab washer is artistic licence!

The tab washer one.

I have made a start and will be fitting new discs, bearings and calipers. There isn't a locking plate on the car (type 14 brakes with standard Herald/Spit set-up); do I need to order a couple?

Is this the new prom at Douglas where they have moved the 120+ year-old horse tram lines because it was thought modern drivers couldn't cope with them? Only marginally better than the initial plan, which was to do away with them entirely, immediately, and without any consultation! EDIT: I see the prom project is now officially 'finished', even though it is...erm...incomplete!

Do you have a link for these, please?

My 1980 TR7 had that arrangement.

So is it worth me replacing the (newly painted!) MkIII Spit airbox from my GT4s 1300? With intake slots in the bottom edge of the airbox, it draws hot air off the exhaust manifold all year round. Which explains the dreadful tickover in traffic on hot days... Presumably Spitfire drivers suffer the same thing?

I believe so; maybe a few other parts. They had a rather higher profile in the TSSC in the 80's -possibly even their own edition of the famed 'Turning Circle' supplement...

Floats? you need an Amphicar...the only car fitted with a bilge pump as standard...😁

If you are desperate to repair your existing light, you might try 'Glue n Glaze: Deluxe Materials Glue n Glaze AD55 | Hobbies which the r/c aircraft modellers use to create cockpit canopies: you wipe a film across the gap (think of a bubble-blowing loop and soapy water) and it then dries clear. A spray of white on the back might give you an opaque finish...

The economists would tell us that this is technology push, not demand pull...

A good task to tackle, as it is straightforward (have you got a Haynes manual? If not, I'd recommend getting one); it's just like big Meccano: nuts and bolts and springs. And really satisfying when you have completed it: it transforms the gear linkage!

Blue Spit spotted heading south on the A4069 Llangadog to Brynaman this afternoon. I was there with a D of E group when you were driving the twisties. I hope you enjoyed it!

An epidiascope: Opaque projector - Wikipedia. Great word!

A vote for Newton Commercials from me, too. They will also provide moulded sets in non-standard colours...😁

OK, it looks like I might give it a go, as I have a couple of seal sets in the drawer. I may not split the caliper, though: it sounds like 'here there be dragons' territory, like fully reconning a gearbox or rear pinion set. I just hope everything isn't seized -but suspect it will be 😒.

Thanks -interesting reading!

Having had very little use in the past couple of years, the offside front (Type 14) caliper of the Bond is binding, and thinking that a bit of heat might help free it, I went for a drive. This resulted in brake fade, a lot of heat, and a blued disc. Not my wisest decision, in hindsight. I have already replaced the brake fluid and believe it sensible to replace the discs as a pair, too. Which leaves the calipers: one working, one partially seized. I am not keen on 'only' fitting new seals, so the alternatives seem to replace them as a pair, either with new, or reconditioned, units. Given the relatively slim difference in cost (about £10 apiece at Paddocks), are there any benefits in taking the cheaper option? I am well aware of shoddy pattern parts and that re-worked Triumph parts might be better quality, but is this true in this case? Finally, how easy is it to fit new discs and calipers? My only attempt at fitting new pads proved to be a real struggle, but perhaps new, uncorroded parts will be more straightforward. Given the heat generated (and the fact that I have some NOS ones) I intend to fit new bearings, too. I would regard myself as a competent mechanic: clutch changes, cylinder heads off & valves replaced, etc. in the past.

I was going to replace mine, but didn't in the end. I thought about using greyboard, which looks similar. I rather like Peter's suggestion of using PVA to reinforce it. Equally, you could glue two thinner pieces together as you fix it in place, effectively creating a laminate. The thickness of greyboard is usually measured in microns, i.e. 1000 = 1mm, so 750 - 1500 might be about right.