Ian Foster

Doug I did not know this was a design feature, I always thought my two long and two short was mismatched set. It is useful to put the long ones in first as they usefully compress the carpet a bit and make the short ones easier. I have just refitted the tunnel and interior and was really quite pleased with myself after the first proper run today, however I am now upset as a don't have the chrome washers under my chrome dome headed bolts ! Ian

Gav Both the Goodridge stainless braided supply pipe and remote bleed pipe ( a short flexible brake hose) are screwed direct into the slave, so the seal has to be between the shoulder on the hose terminal and the body of the slave. This may be different to the standard arrangement. It has been like this since rebuild and I don't recall a problem previously, but it was possibly mashed up tighter than I fancy doing. Hopefully the Dowty washers will do the job (I will have spares!) Ian

Using a 0.7" master increases bore area by 25% compared to the 5/8". This would give a theoretical stroke of 14.6mm on a 1" slave and 9.2mm at the bearing. So pretty much on the money for hitting the 8.0-9.5mm range for the B&B clutch. With my GT6 I am restricted to using the small reservoir master cylinder due the proximity of my Girling Powerstop servo and don't know if this size is available with a 0.7" bore. PS Doing a quick rough and ready CAD exercise shows the down angled geometry of the slave looses a bit of movement. Ian

Nick Yes that's the standard 5/8" jobbie. Didn't know cheating was allowed ! Ian

Pete It does feel a bit like that at times, but must soldier on ! I was trying to avoid squirty sealant stuff, but had considered it. Hoping the Dowty seals will do the job. Ian

Pete Slave is new, so nice flat surfaces. Pipes are good and new copper washers, so agreed it 'should' seal. Have tightened as much as I dare considering a thread into aluminium, but still weeping! (me and the slave). (Have now sourced some Viton Dowty seals) Ian

B****r!! Will have to order the right type! Ian

Update following response from the Senior Engineer at Frontline (Borg and Beck). GCC228 Borg and Beck Clutch:- The design travel to release the clutch is minimum of 8mm to maximum of 9.5mm. So with the GT6/Vitesse fork geometry, minimum movement required at slave pushrod is 8x81/51=12.7mm, maximum is 9.5x81/51=15.1mm 30mm of master cylinder stroke with a 1" slave gives 11.7mm and with a 7/8" slave gives 15.3mm. Absolute maximum stroke in the master is about 32-33mm. This does seem to show that with the current GCC228 B&B cover with the GT6/Vitesse fork geometry, the available travel with the 1" slave is not quite enough and with the 7/8" is at maximum. This supports my recent experience/observations. Now if I can just get the flexible stainless pipe and the remote bleed to seal properly in the slave, I'll be sorted (hopefully substituting nitrile Dowty washers for copper will do it) Ian

From the AP racing spec, maximum release travel:- link 1 = 9.00mm link 2 = couldn't find it link 3 = 6.0-6.5mm (has a diagram showing the figure relates to the bearing/fingers) Travel is in the same general ball park as plate thickness. That makes the 7.36mm (0.29") Maximum travel figure from page 2.107 of the WSM look sensible. For the GT6/Vitesse arrangement, measurements of the fork (approx.) pins to pivot = 51mm. pivot to pushrod =81mm. Movement required at pushrod = 7.36x81/51=11.7mm Master cylinder 5/8" dia (15.88m), area = 198mm2 Stroke (say 30mm) volume = 5.94cc Slave cylinder 1" dia (25.4mm), area = 507mm2 So assuming no losses, resulting pushrod travel = 5.94x1000/507=11.7mm So seems to check out. Fitting a 7/8" (22.2mm) slave, area = 388mm2 Pushrod travel = 5.94x1000/388=15.3mm (ie additional 3.6mm or 31%) Ian Pete I have a remote bleed system and very useful it is too! Update I have contacted the technical department of Frontline (Borg and Beck) to see what they have on the spec. Could be interesting

Thanks all (Nick and I have been corresponding on this for a while). Nick, I agree the travel figure looks dubious and is as you say undefined, which is why I queried it. Pete, interesting to hear that you believe the clutch can't be overstroked with standard components. Gav, It does sound as though the set up is a bit marginal, although I would have thought that just moving the slave nearer to the fork with spacer washers would have just taken up some of the hydraulic self adjustment. Mind you if it worked ! Mr Witors website offers a 7/8" slave (longer travel than 1") as being 'better with all aftermarket clutches 2000 & 2.5. Will continue the quest for a perfect clutch. Ian

Pete Thanks for the response. Strange that there no equivalent page in the T2000 WSM. (how about Dolomite Sprint anyone?) I have undertaken a fairly comprehensive review of the clutch on my GT6 following last years RBRR, when clutch was definitely not happy towards the end of the weekend...poor thing ! Turns out I had the wrong bearing carrier (a steel T2000 item installed as part of clutch kit when I changed to an overdrive back in the late 1970s.....oh the ignorance of youth!), now replaced with my original bronze carrier (which I had fortunately kept) a replacement bellhousing spigot, a correct RHP bearing, an almost new clutch fork and also a new B&B clutch (courtesy of Mr Witor). Pedal and pushrod are also about as good as they are going to get. Post 2011 rebuild a 7/8" clutch slave had been fitted, but was worn internally by the incorrect geometry resulting from the wrong carrier. I have had my original Girling 5/8" master cylinder and 1" slave cylinder stainless sleeved by Past Parts and whilst everything is pretty much OK I just felt I need just a bit more clutch travel, some of which I have achieved with the substitution of an adjustable pushrod, which has a slightly bigger head on the bearing end into the cylinder. The reason for my reference to the WSM in respect of maximum bearing travel is to ensure I am not overstressing the clutch. I can measure master cylinder stoke and hence volume, which can be converted to slave movement and because I know the geometry of the fork, I should be able to determine actual bearing movement (I can also actually measure slave movement). I am determined to try and resolve everything before I put the interior back in as it has been in and out more times than I care to count, albeit two of those were down to gear lever 'ball failure'. Anyway if anyone can assist with information on 'maximum travel' I would be most grateful. Ian

(not sure if the right section to post in) I am trying to improve my understanding of the geometry of the clutch release mechanism on the GT6 clutch. Master cylinder stroke and bore vs slave etc. Reference to the factory WSM shows a spec page where the 'driven plate thickness' and 'maximum travel' have identical measurements. Is this coincidence, 'engineered' or a misprint, as the travel figure seems to be less than might be anticipated. I would be interested to see the same page from the T2000 WSM (in theory the same clutch) if someone has one available for comparison. Thanks in anticipation. Ian GT6 Clutch WSM.pdf

Hi Paul That link doesn't seem to show the differences in angle that differentiates a 'V' from a 'wide V'. I found a few sources when I was researching, but not sure I kept anything. Another attached photo showing my current wide V GCB belt alongside the AVX10 and you can see how the edges of the AVX10 have cupped. There's always something ready to trip us up !. Ian

Ian My recent experience with fan belts has taught me that not all belts are equal. I tried a couple of AVX10 belts (made by PIX) and had delamination failure of the outer edge of the belt. I found after some research that there are actually 'V belts and 'wide V belts' (I don't recall the angles) and what was happening is that the narrow V belt is sitting too low in the pulley and stressing the outer edge. I have now fitted a GCB belt and it has solved the problem. Length will need to suit your application and it can be a bit trial end error. Photo of the failed AVX10 belt alongside a Unipart original. Ian

IIRC there is a GT6 on the upper floor in the Jaguar/Leyland building. Just saying !! Ian

Can anyone explain how the anti-drain function in filters works (probably been covered before many times). Many vehicles seem to have the filter mounted to the side of the block (filter horizontal) and also vertically (base of filter upwards, including my wife's Skoda Yeti, I think) so if we use an anti drain filter does it matter. Nick has achieved a reasonable down angle in his Vitesse with the long Mann filter, but only because the engine has been sneaked back an 1" or so. I have a spin on kit and long Mann filter to fit, but have yet to get round to it. Filter sticking upright would be a very neat install if it works. Ian

Brian You refer to tuning experiences and your 6-3-1 manifold. Could you advise make/supplier and possibly post some pictures. Would also be interested to hear which rolling road. Ian

Moss Bros ? "Suits you Sir " Ian

Kevin Agree mirrors are necessary in modern traffic for safe lane changing (my neck isn't a flexible as it used to be). I used to have wing mounted bullet mirrors on my Mk2 GT6, but when we restored the car with a new bonnet, opted for a door mirror instead. I initially tried a 'clip on' mirror attached to the quarterlight frame, but it kept falling off, so now have an Ital style mirror bolted to the door. I think it is nice style and works well. Photo of car attached and link to Holden website . https://www.holden.co.uk/p/ital_style_mirror_convex_glass Ian

Dave The plate should be replaceable (Canley show Pt No. 12307 - but currently unavailable). Someone may be able to find you one from spares stash or have remotes complete. Be careful with re-bush kits, quality can vary !!!!!!!!!!!! If your spherical bearing is in good condition and is the original nylon material, I would be very tempted to hang onto it. I have had one of the grey injection moulded plastic ones break up after about 4 years and a black (slightly soft) one break up after only 150 miles (and on the eve of the 2106 RBRR). These are stupidly cheap parts but failure can really spoil your day and the effort involved in changing them considerable. PS- make sure you fit the bolt at the base of the gear lever the right way round and use a new nyloc. Ian

Good recent experience with Exide, less so with Yuasa. My GT6 now has a Hi Torque starter jobbie, so suspect this requires less juice than the original Lucas (others will confirm). I do recall back in the late 1970s when I first had the car, that slow cranking was not battery or charging circuit related, just a poor earth connection between engine and battery. The original arrangement is engine to body and body to battery which gives multiple opportunities for a poor connection, which causes resistance and voltage drop. Adding a second strap from engine to battery was just like someone adding another battery. Problem solved so check those connections ! Ian F

Ray Owen springs made me an extra leaf which I inserted into the centre my original 6 leaf spring. I just needed to elongate the holes on the U straps slightly. Works well. Ian F.

Ray You already have a set of telescopic conversion brackets. Suggest you take the shocks off a manually feel what they are like. That spring looks to be a bit of beast as if it is the original Vitesse item. If so it will too stiff by a large margin and I suspect that is where your troubles lay. Try some alternatives before changing dampers unless they are obviously shot. Ian F

Ray I have Nicks CV conversion on a Mk2 GT6 and use Koni 18-1717 dampers (Classic Mini). These have an open length of 292mm and closed of 216mm. We fabricated our top mounting bracket which is welded to the chassis at the normal non rotaflex mounting point and has an offset to correct the slight fore and aft misalignment. I have a leaf added to my original GT6 spring, as a new replacement was worse than my original. You may wish to try taking one out as Nick suggests or finding a GT6 spring, if your car is significantly lighter than the original donor vehicle (Vitesse Mk2) Incidentally, I have just had a pair of 1980s Koni front shocks rebuilt by SP Suspension (Donington) with a turn around of about a week for circa £123. Others can also rebuild. See list. PDF of chassis bracket attached it case it's useful (would not work with rotaflex donuts) Ian F GT6-Damper Bracket.pdf

Doug Silicone.....silly me ! Roger I have yet to try the sleeved cylinders. Ian F