Ian Foster

Have you confirmed that the disc is actually warped by measuring runout with a dial gauge? If you are feeling judder under braking it could well be the rear drums. (got that T shirt) Ian

Paul I see you have a standard (possibly aftermarket) rotor arm. Quality can be an issue with carbon black used to colour the plastic and some are a very loose fit on the shaft. Red rotor arms are available from Accuspark for the Delco distributor. I have used these in recent years and the fit is very good. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AccuSpark-Red-Rotor-Arm-for-Delco-4-6cyl-Distributors-Triumph-Vauxhall-Bedford-/170930011146 Might be worth considering. Ian

Colin The solenoid on my GT6 started playing up after 51 years and 200k miles (bl**dy Lucas rubbish) and couldn't hold sufficient current. I have a modern starter so was able to bypass the solenoid switching facility but retaining it as a joining post. You have to run a separate energizing wire to the starter's own solenoid and remove the link wire, but it's all easily reversible. I managed to find a NOS original solenoid for a reasonable price, which I may fit in the future. I will be interested to see some pictures of your investigations. Ian

My Mazda 6 MPS was direct injection and seemed to perform well even at high mileage (165k). Ian

Doug I'll see your '42 years' and raise you to 43!! (September 1977) Ian

E Type Jaguar....rich man's GT6 !! Ian

My 1969 GT6 Mk2 (bought in 1977) has the deeper filter, which I must assume is an original fitment. Filter part No. is GFE131. Ian

Roger Paul WSM chart designates KC as the 3.27 (non o/d) ratio. My Mk2 came out of the factory like that and I subsequently converted it to o/d with an o/d box harvested from a scrapyard Vitesse. Like Colin I had a brief relationship with a 3.63 but didn't like it. In my opinion, the 3.27 is fine with a good motor in a GT6 and gives about 2750 rpm at 70mph. Sounds as though you already have the diff and speedo package, so I suggest you fit the o/d gearbox and see what you think. Ian

Hi Richard I have a spare late long branch manifold with HS6s and have attached a couple of photos of the linkages. The throttle attachment to the link rod appears to be a clamp type so could be fitted at the rear of the rear carb if you have sufficient spindle projection. I have also included a photo of the arrangement on my GT6 showing how we have replaced the original rod linkage with the cable arrangement from a later Spitfire. Hope this helps Ian

Colin I don't recognize those. Would need measuring against various carbs to confirm. Ian

TT adapters. Ian

Richard TT steel adapters are 9.3mm. I'll take a picture and post tomorrow. Ian

Richard Shout if you are interested in the TT adapters. If opening out the manifold, you would fit the adapter a blend to that. An insulation spacer is usual between carb and manifold. Burlen have several thicknesses available. You might want to check clearance to the wheelarch before committing as with K&Ns on my GT6, it was a bit tight. Ian

Nigel et al Not much info is available to assist needle selection on the 175s and probably fewer options than with SUs, but I do seem to have dialed in an OK set up, with good delivery across the rev range and good mpg (35+ on both the 2016 and 2018 RBRRs). The car came with 2D needles (bit rich) and I ran 2Hs for many years (I think a Triumph Tune Stage1/2 recommendation), but currently running 2Es. Rolling road and/or wideband monitoring would be beneficial I am sure. Sounds as though I need to put that long branch manifold and HS6s up for sale! Ian

Casting is actually V3153 as you can see, not V3135 as stated (derr! bad typing day I'm afraid) Ian

Clive I am running Stromberg 175CD2s on my 2L GT6 Mk2, which were already on the car when I bought it in 1977. They were fitted with steel SAH/TT adaptors with I have since removed, preferring to have the flanges of the manifold built up in ally and drilled to accept the 4 stud pattern of the 175s. This has been a successful mod and I feel provides a more positive fixing than the adaptors. See pic. Having said that, the adaptors are available should you be interested and will be be suitable for the HS6s as they have the same fixing pattern as the Stroms. I have opened out the original GT6 manifold and had the internal passages reworked to correct the imbalance on #2 and #5. The original manifold has a casting number of V3135. see pic A cold air box incorporating the K&N filters, similar to Nigel's is next on my project list I also have one of the later long branch manifold with a pair of HS6s, but that would need modification to remove the inbuilt 7 deg angle required for the saloon. Ian

Hi Rich I managed to find one for my Mk2 at Beaulieu Auto Jumble about three years ago, but they are rare and it was quite expensive (as the seller knew they were rare). The current offerings seem to be of a very different design and require a fixing hole, rather than being the push fit of the originals. I might be worth contacting the dismantlers eg Spitbitz/Spitfire graveyard etc. to see if they can harvest from their stock. Good luck! Ian

Jeff Thanks for posting on this subject. It prompted me to consider the longstanding weep on the starter box of my 175 CD2. Turns out I already have several of the gaskets in the refurb kits and parts kits lurking in the spares drawer....who knew! A little job for the winter me thinks. Ian

Iain If you look at the sketch attached to my previous post, you will see that the rear of the boss has a significant taper (assuming Vitesse is the same as GT6) and taking 10mm off the front would leave a very thin section of the boss onto which the bolt must bear. But hopefully you will have enough clearance as you suggest. Ian

Iain On my GT6, I used the same approach as Adrian describes, reducing the boss from 32.5mm to 20mm as per the attached drawing. This gives about 12mm clearance between the nut and the fan. I figured that if I ever want to revert to the original fan I would just add a spacer (or revert to a spare original boss) I use a 12" SPAL sucker ref VA10-AP10/C-61A. I was initially worried about clearance to the water pump, but that is fine. I also have an override switch to compliment the radiator mounted fan switch. Ian GT6-Fan Boss Mod.pdf

Dave The second small hose from the thermostat housing to the filler neck is specific to the GT6 and I believe is used on all models. The Vitesse and big saloons don't have it, but their rads are larger. I have always assumed that this was Triumphs response to making best use of the small frontal area of the radiator, with the cheapest possible 'fix' and was probably added during development. If blanked off you would be reducing the flow to the radiator. The overflow bottle, with a correctly functioning cap makes it a 'no loss system', ie what gets pushed out by expansion, gets pulled back under vacuum when the system cools down. A thermostat should always be used and general consensus seems to be that the standard 82C unit is the best all round although 74C and 88C stats are available. If you have managed to find an up-rated core, then this is about as good as it gets without changing the radiator completely with all of the consequent modifications. The shrouding at the front of the radiator is important and the original design can be improved upon a bit by extending the sides:-see pic. Hope this helps. Ian

Tom There is another potential source of leakage around the head of the bolt. I have attached two photos of my canister, showing a rubber seal (sort of a square section O ring) that fits over the bolt shank and into a recess in the filter body. Might be worth checking whether you have this. If not it might be possible to make one from an offcut of hose. Regards Ian

David It looks as though you have direct fixing between the silencer box and the brackets fixed to floor and if so I would expect this to transmit quite a bit of sound. I have used rubber bobbins (onto the front face of the rear valance) but this is not really the correct use of them and they do fail in shear after a few years. I do have additional fixings to the pipes at the front end of the boxes onto the diff as well, so it isn't just hanging on the rear mounts. Perhaps a trip to your local exhaust fitter might provide a suitable fitting to provide some isolation for your situation. See photo showing the centre box on my GT6. I would have thought the space between the chassis rails on the Vitesse is the same, so a centre box should be achievable. Have other Vitesse owners done this? Ian

David A centre box will make a useful difference. I have a GT6 Mk3 centre box on my Mk2 with a stainless twin rear. Various short straight-throughs (cherry bomb type) are available and can be added into the centre section where the chassis lips are flared downwards. Careful alignment is required to prevent rattling and some bend down the flanges a bit to get more clearance. What twin system are you using? Ian

Gav I had my Girling Powerstop 5156 rebuilt by JL Spares of Rochdale. In 2010 it cost £240+VAT, which included powder coating the vacuum canister and re-plating all the parts. Tel 01706 644210 (Scott) if you are interested. Could be an alternative source for spares if you want to rebuild it yourself. Ian