Ian Foster

Hi Iain My install is a sealed system as the PCV valve pulls through the catch can. It is my understand that air can enter the rocker box via the vent in the cap to partially compensate for the vacuum. The operation of the PCV valve is actually quite complicated and I have an explanation of how it works somewhere, which I will post if I can find it. (Presumably invented by a Mr Smith!) Seems to work well. I guess catch tanks weren't around when Triumph designed the system, but are very much in favour with the modern tuners. It would be interesting to know why the PCV was dropped for the later cars...cost perhaps! Ian

Hi Iain I fitted a catch can to my GT6 just to clean up whatever was being fed back into the engine, as oil content does reduce octane and we need all we can get. I mounted at the front of the inlet manifold as my bulkhead is quite full due to the brake servo and larger washer bottle. I have retained the original Smiths PCV and as you can see from the photo, the breather outlet from the rocker box to the catch can and then to the PCV which connects as normal into the inlet manifold. The catch anodized alloy can is an ebay special, which came without any internals, so I added an inlet pipe, pan scrubbers and top filter (details available on request if required). The can does collect a small but useful amount of deposits (probably 1/2 cup in about 3000 miles), which has a definite 'breathery' type smell to it and the PCV internals are staying nice and clean. Presumably better for the environment as well. Hope this is of interest. Ian

Hi Ian It sounds as though we have found the problem. The pipe delivers fuel from the front to rear carb, when the starter box is operated, so the box is doing exactly what it is supposed to. I do have a new used pipe (originally supplied by Gower and Lee but too small for my 175s) which I'm happy to send you. PM me with your contact details if you are interested. Alternative any suitable piece if tube will do. Clear is helpful as you can see the fuel moving in it. Ian

Hi Ian I have the same arrangement on my GT6 Mk2 but with 175 CD2 carbs. I think you need to try and spot exactly where the fuel is coming from, by drying off the area and then getting someone else to start the car as you stare intently at it. Is it the box, the connection to the link pipe, or the float chamber vent adjacent to it. My starter box does weep slightly and from memory is reliant on some direct metal to metal contact in the assembly. I tried to ensure flatness of a joining parts using some very fine wet and dry on a piece of glass. Your photos show the incomplete installation so a current shot might shed some further light. Ian

Neil It is not unknown for the short fabric covered wire which provides the earth connection between the moveable bottom plate and the distributor body to be broken. Initially you can check for continuity with a meter, but give the wire a good wiggle as well in case it is hanging on by a single strand. It looks original, so could well be showing its age. Ian

Hag If on points, it might well be the condenser. Replace with a know good one or source a replacement from a reputable supplier/specialist eg. Distributor Doctor. Ian

Hi Gav Oh the joys of a Vitesse/GT6 rear suspension. Sounds as though you have got it sorted. It will be worth it in the end. Good to see you are using lock down to good advantage. You've only had those bits for 2-3 years! Ian F

Hi Iain I thought you were giving me the finger, which I thought a bit unexpected from one Iain to another Ian! Jut to add a couple of pieces of info to my previous post:- My box is Papworth build 3 rail with a 25% J Type O/D. (so same as the original D Type option) Wheels are 13" shod with 175/70 rubber, so should be the same as standard in all respects, which the speedo reading confirms. PS My moderns over-read by about 7% which I think is normal...... I just find it annoying!. Ian

Hi Kevin I have a 3.27 in my 1969 Mk2. I bought in 1977 as a non O/D car which I fitted with a box and D-Type from a Vitesse. I tried a 3.63 in the 80’s but went back to the 3.27 (actually when the 3.63 was found to have incorrect output shafts. It gives 70mph at about 2800 rpm and generally copes OK on hills etc. As others have said it’s easy enough to just flick it out of O/D. I get pretty good touring mpg (35 on the 2016 RBBR and 38 in 2018) with just a mildly breathed on 2L engine, running 175 CD2 carbs. Being the original spec for the car the speedo reads correctly (and accurately according to the Satnav). It is supposed to be the weakest of the diffs, but mine is a recent Canley build with the improved carrier and has been OK so far. Ian

Bob Unless you are absolutely sure that the offset is correct, you might want to do a trial fit of the wheels before committing to tyres. 5.5" Dunlops I had on my GT6 Mk2 2 when I bought it in 1977, did have quite a lot of projection from the arch and sprayed the side of the car. (don't know the offset). They were sold (probably too cheap) when I put on some 5.5" Cobra Superslots. I'm now running repro 5.5" Revolutions (ET=+25mm), spaced 5mm at the front for top wishbone clearance and 5mm at the rear to fill the arches a little better. It's a a bit of a minefield. Ian

My GT6 Mk2 had bonnet mounted bullet mirrors when I bought it back in 1977. They were sort of useable (I think) but when we rebuilt the car on 2010/11 using a new bonnet I couldn't bring myself to fit them , even though I had new units ready and waiting. I used a clip on mirror for a couple of years but got fed up with it falling off, despite multiple attempts at 'improvements' to the fixings and it was started to look a bit dented and tatty. In the end I decided to use a fixed door mirror and found an Ital design which I think really suits the car. Positioning is fairly critical to get the required visibility as the head angles are limited and you have to be careful to avoid the swing of the quarter-light. Internal access is OK in this location, but it does still need two scary holes. Couple of pics attached. Regards Ian

Paul MANN W713/9 gets my vote. Medium length with double anti-drain thingies. (GT6 Mk2) Ian

OOOPS! Sorry if that was a b*m steer. Looks very familiar in the catalogue . Ian

For anyone contemplating or collecting bits for the Jones/Bowler CV conversion, the August Rimmer supplement has:- City Rover LH drive shaft assembly, comprising outer CV, driveshaft and inner tripod CV (which gets discarded in favour of the Volvo 340 Lobro) for £18 inc VAT (not noted as OEM) MGF/MGF/Metro Drive flange assembly £60 inc VAT ((OEM) Use code UK1819D Ian

Paul The tap is close to back of the block and behind the carbs so should be no need to remove them for access. Ian

Paul The drain tap can be completely removed, which gives a much bigger hole to poke something through (a large cable tie works well). Suspect you may not want to do this just yet having just refilled the system, but definitely one for the future. Ian

Hi Richard Could be a difficult nut to crack with that combination. I run 175CD2s on a Mk2 GT6, which were already fitted when I bought the car in 1977. I have checked my inlet manifold and the Stanpart casting numbers are 308671 and V3153. This has had work on it to suit the larger carbs and the balance the branches internally , but is otherwise original. It may be that a carb swop to CD175s or HS6s will be your best long term option, but first of all I would check the basics:- valve clearances, static timing, float levels and a base setting on the needles (ie three turns down from jet level with the bridge). A new set of plugs might not be a bad idea as well. Let us know how you get on. Ian

I have reverted to an 11/16" bar after using a 7/8" bar for many years on my Rotoflex GT6 Mk2. Without going into chapter and verse about why and when and who (me obviously) I confirm that the smaller bar it is much, much better! Ian

Joe Have you spoken to Mike Papworth. Very knowledgeable and has a huge stache of parts. Ian

When I had my GT6 rad re-cored (to try and retain originality), I had a boss added into the top tank, to take a standard fan switch. (Can't quite remember what temp rating I'm using) This works well, but as I have wired the fan to run on with the ignition off, if the engine is switched off whilst the fan is still running, it can take a while to switch off as there is no circulation from the pump and hot water is trapped in the head and top tank. Easy enough to control by just allowing the engine to run until the fan switches off. A manual override is also very worthwhile and can be used to pre-empt the fan switch. Ian

That was quick !

John By modern, I meant the unleaded rubbish we are all sold now. A 'witches brew' by all accounts ! Your fuel was recent therefore assumed fresh, although we did definitely get a tank full of slightly dodgy stuff from the BP in Bude on the RBRR. I think maybe the Super hangs around longer in garage tanks. Will be interested to follow your investigations. Ian

38.3mpg over the RBRR weekend. Poole-Knebworth-JOG-LE-Knebworth-Poole. GT6 Mk2 with 3.27 axle and OD. Ian

John I have now changed to a Huco electric pump, but did have various ‘experiences’ with the mechanical unit. A few comments:- It is not that unusual for a pre pump filter to be only partially full. If using the priming lever you will only get the swishing sound if the float chambers on the carbs are empty. Disconnecting the fuel supply at the carbs and a trial pump into a container as suggested, will confirm that the diaphragm and valves are functioning correctly. Your original description said you had only run for 2-3 minutes, so I think fuel vaporisation can be discounted albeit the symptoms are not dissimilar. Had you run the car up to temperature before setting off perhaps? My GT6 ‘failed to proceed’ on more than one occasion and would sometimes exhibit the filter emptying trick. On one occasion loosening the top of the fuel pump produced a satisfying hiss, presumably as a result of vapour pressure building up in the pump. Fuel could then be seen boiling in the base of the pump. Is it modern fuel.....who knows? Ian

Thread resurrection alert !!! I have removed the previously fitted 7/8" ARB from my Mk2 GT6 and refitted the original 11/16" bar (albeit with its slight set). The effect is 100% positive. Much better steering at even low speeds and improved turn in as Nick commented above. This is in conjunction with a slightly beefed up original rear spring (1 new leaf added) and my weak rear end was the reason I swopped ARBs in the first place (see post above) . So once again Triumph know best! Ian F