johny
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Posts posted by johny
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On 22/04/2024 at 17:31, Gary Flinn said:
Hi Jonny
Yes, I presume you mean the Damson car?
I've been in touch with the owner via messenger who I have had correspondence with in the past on the Vitesse Facebook group, I will call him tonight to discuss.
The asking price is out my remit though so unless there's some movement I won't be viewing it.
Regards
Gary
It doesnt look like it was a factory fitted overdrive model and this will show in its commission number. Have to check if its been fitted with the correct boot badge and operating switch which arent apparent in the photos. Door gaps still dont look perfect - thats being picky but really I think youre looking for perfection and any less gives leverage on the price...
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oooh watch out, they can look bad but still do the job perfectly and may well outlast the new repro ones you buy! Try levering the engine to see how they perform...
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2 hours ago, owensparrow said:
Here’s the part I’m worried about.
incidentally, when I refitted the overdrive to the gearbox, I followed Haynes instructions to just push the two together, they clunked together nicely after a bit of wriggling, I didn’t synchronise anything, was that bad?Yes as said it is entirely possible for them to go back together with no other actions necessary (cam in right place and splines already synchronised) so maybe you were just lucky.
Also as Pete says the steel spacer looks like part number 8 which would fall off the end of the reverse spindle very easily. Its important as it prevents the reverse idler gear from going too far backwards and clashing with the 1st gear cog. However I cant see why this would prevent your OD from working so the next step would be to verify the operation of its solenoid...
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1 hour ago, John L said:
Jonny, yes starting from cold using some choke is okay and the engine will warm up normally.
But when the engine is hot the engine will either start momentarily and then cut out or will not start at-all so I have to resort to Easy Start.
Thanks for your advice re a compression test.
Pete, also noted re running rich.
Will carry out some more investigation.
Thanks
John
If it needs Easy Start I wouldnt have thought its too rich but just the opposite🤔 One controversial thing that some owners suspect is vapour lock in the fuel system where the pump or lines have got hot enough (35º and upwards) while stopped to allow boiling.
Must admit I cheat on my Vitesse and run the electric fan for 30 seconds after stopping (too much and needs choke to restart!) which makes for much easier hot restarts...
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One of the root causes can be compression which if low becomes worse when the engines hot then obviously the hotter the engine runs the worse the problem. Worth doing a compression test to discount this....
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So is this right - it starts ok cold but then when warmed it wont restart without the easy start?
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Glad youve got an answer and bear in mind that its not just the rings that wear but also the bores so it may need a rebore and new pistons which unfortunately adds considerably to the costs...
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Yes doors do need quite a lot of patience and time to set up well even going to bending the lip of the body shell where the seal fits to ensure theres the right amount of contact along all the aperture so that a piece of card will slide with the same resistance all the way round😲
Good luck.
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On 20/03/2024 at 12:42, Gary Flinn said:
As a lot of you will know I've been on the lookout for an original low mileage/low ownership Vitesse for quite a few months now.
Does anyone know of any club cars that have been owned by the same person from new?
It must be a long shot with even the later Spitfires and Dolomites being 40+ years old now
I would love to find an original, one owner low mileage car but I'm beginning to think there aren't any left these days.
Regards
Gary
Hi Gary, doesnt fit your specifications exactly but theres one on ebay now that must be good enough - certainly expensive enough!
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Yes it sounds like you might have a lot of fumes coming from the breather pipe and I go with the explanation above. Is the car new to you as I wonder if a previous owner has set it up to run with the pipe disconnected😲
As well as the compression check suggested I would adjust the mixture to the standard setting in the manual and then try reconnecting the pipe. If it runs then you can fine tune the mixture...
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You had a cage in there John! Mine hasnt so Im more worried about where the front of the car. engine and steering column will end up rather than my original seat belts failing😁
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It sounds as if your carb mixture is set very rich so that it runs ok when extra air is introduced via the open breather pipe. This would account for the sooting up when the pipe is connected.
Cant see the tappets having this effect although of course as always if you have any doubt over their setting they should be checked...
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Well if you remove the boot handle there should be a number on it which MIGHT be the same the same as the glovebox....
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Yes the manuals are great, get the info first hand (well a lot anyway)...
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Yes I sometimes do think about it, why take the risk of driving a form of transport which is obviously much less safe than it could be🤔
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11 minutes ago, fungus said:
a key for the lock now, as there are no markings on the lock unlike the ingnition
I thought you had the key but it didnt work? If so the locks knackered and a new assembly needed. Otherwise I think it should be the same as the boot lock (if neither have been changed before of course) so you could get the number off that...
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I think if youre going to worry about old but good condition seatbelts failing you shouldnt be driving a classic car - you need something with ABS, airbags, pretensioners, crumple zones etc😂
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Dont think a magnet will help much with rust but no worry as the oil filter will do the job. Then perhaps renew the filter at the next oil change rather than leave it to the next?
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Agree with Colin but thats some amount of condensation! Will you have a quick peak at the crank bearings and thrusts while youve got the sump off or have they been changed recently?
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/classicbits
Try this link - hopefully it works.
Got him Colin but he doesnt seem to be selling anything on ebay☹️
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Not having any hits with that name Colin but I used this kit and it had the same size for under the glass as for instrument to dash facia but of course a bigger size for bezel to glass...
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Ok so not an adjustment, something has failed. Diaphragm punctured, air piston sticking, air leak....
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Was it running ok before the condenser problem and what else was done in the service? I ask this because it might indicate the problem being a failure or an adjustment...
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What diameter of cord did you get Paul and did you use the same stuff for both sides of the glass?
GT6 cold starting problem
in General
Posted
I have had an issue with a carb top which everytime I tightened it down it jammed the air piston while it was ok if the screws were left slightly loose. I thought the top must be distorted but in the end I re-centred the jet and the problem was resolved...