johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Yes doors do need quite a lot of patience and time to set up well even going to bending the lip of the body shell where the seal fits to ensure theres the right amount of contact along all the aperture so that a piece of card will slide with the same resistance all the way round😲
Good luck.
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On 20/03/2024 at 12:42, Gary Flinn said:
As a lot of you will know I've been on the lookout for an original low mileage/low ownership Vitesse for quite a few months now.
Does anyone know of any club cars that have been owned by the same person from new?
It must be a long shot with even the later Spitfires and Dolomites being 40+ years old now
I would love to find an original, one owner low mileage car but I'm beginning to think there aren't any left these days.
Regards
Gary
Hi Gary, doesnt fit your specifications exactly but theres one on ebay now that must be good enough - certainly expensive enough!
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Yes it sounds like you might have a lot of fumes coming from the breather pipe and I go with the explanation above. Is the car new to you as I wonder if a previous owner has set it up to run with the pipe disconnected😲
As well as the compression check suggested I would adjust the mixture to the standard setting in the manual and then try reconnecting the pipe. If it runs then you can fine tune the mixture...
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You had a cage in there John! Mine hasnt so Im more worried about where the front of the car. engine and steering column will end up rather than my original seat belts failing😁
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It sounds as if your carb mixture is set very rich so that it runs ok when extra air is introduced via the open breather pipe. This would account for the sooting up when the pipe is connected.
Cant see the tappets having this effect although of course as always if you have any doubt over their setting they should be checked...
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Well if you remove the boot handle there should be a number on it which MIGHT be the same the same as the glovebox....
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Yes the manuals are great, get the info first hand (well a lot anyway)...
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Yes I sometimes do think about it, why take the risk of driving a form of transport which is obviously much less safe than it could be🤔
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11 minutes ago, fungus said:
a key for the lock now, as there are no markings on the lock unlike the ingnition
I thought you had the key but it didnt work? If so the locks knackered and a new assembly needed. Otherwise I think it should be the same as the boot lock (if neither have been changed before of course) so you could get the number off that...
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I think if youre going to worry about old but good condition seatbelts failing you shouldnt be driving a classic car - you need something with ABS, airbags, pretensioners, crumple zones etc😂
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Dont think a magnet will help much with rust but no worry as the oil filter will do the job. Then perhaps renew the filter at the next oil change rather than leave it to the next?
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Agree with Colin but thats some amount of condensation! Will you have a quick peak at the crank bearings and thrusts while youve got the sump off or have they been changed recently?
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/classicbits
Try this link - hopefully it works.
Got him Colin but he doesnt seem to be selling anything on ebay☹️
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Not having any hits with that name Colin but I used this kit and it had the same size for under the glass as for instrument to dash facia but of course a bigger size for bezel to glass...
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Ok so not an adjustment, something has failed. Diaphragm punctured, air piston sticking, air leak....
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Was it running ok before the condenser problem and what else was done in the service? I ask this because it might indicate the problem being a failure or an adjustment...
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What diameter of cord did you get Paul and did you use the same stuff for both sides of the glass?
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Reckon you need a plate for a Dolomite 1300 which came with the single rail box. This is GCP244 and 6.5" 20 spline...
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Or secondhand probably cheaper but more of a gamble...
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Yes luckily a lot of Triumphs sold back in the day and as the bodies didnt last long still some fairly low mileage spares around. However its not such a great picture for some new repro stuff as it can be poor quality where the materials and even the dimensions arent correct...
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oh dear, it wont a be a problem on the cable side of the magnetic drive (the metal disc assembly you can see) just the needle side but if youve got oil into the bearings theres not much more you can do. Check nothing is restricting the movement of the needle and metal disc and that its return spring is all free - you should be able to gently flick the needle (I just gyrate the entire speedo) and it kicks round nicely before coming back to zero. However in the end it could be that the bearings are shot...
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Hi, thats it gets some miles on it little by little to build up some confidence and work out what needs or you want to improve. I do recommend working your way through the routine maintenance as early as possible in your ownership so you know its right plus it sometimes throws up things before they fail😁
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From the free to download workshop manual item 18 in this drawing is the vertical link. It has a thread machined at the bottom that screws into item 41 the trunnion.
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I bought one that you squeezed in through sparkplug holes to reseal pistons in worn bores - no need for rebores👍
Rocker breather
in Engine
Posted
Glad youve got an answer and bear in mind that its not just the rings that wear but also the bores so it may need a rebore and new pistons which unfortunately adds considerably to the costs...